Waxing: When to remove wax?

[dfoxengr]

Ok so this is silly, but I was just reading about a wax (Collinite 845). On a retailer, the directions say to apply wax and buff off in 30 seconds.



I then read a review on it from a forum post and the guy said to apply wax, wait 40 minutes (dry to haze), perform the swipe test and then remove with MF towel...



I've been reading similar conflicting things in the Detailing 101 section on this site too.



Can someone explain this?

 

[tom p.]

Fox, you'll find detailing is somewhat of an "art" and open to many opinions and variations in technique. In some cases you'll come to realize there isn't a single correct answer for many of the processes you will read about here. It's just not that black and white.



Personally, I probably let a product like #845 cure for about 1/2hr prior to removal. Sure, there are products that want to be wipe on/wipe off, but I don't find the Collinite to fit that definition, but it might work.

 

[dfoxengr]

Ok, good to know. It was just different to me since I've always been told/read to apply, haze, wipe off.



Thanks

 

[tom p.]

You can also read the label on the bottle for an additional data point.

 

[Accumulator]

dfoxengr- If you decide to wait, be sure to apply the product nice and thin. The longer you wait, the more important this can be.



FWIW, I always let my LSPs set up at least long enough to pass the finger-swipe test (except on trim, where I W-O-W-O). I do this even with Sӧuvean, and I've let KSG sit overnight before buffing (actually let it sit for a few days once, no problem at all).



But OTOH, people here with at least as much experience as I have do it differently. IIRC, Scottwax doesn't let his M16/Collinite 476S set up nearly as long as I do...and who's to say that one approach is right and the other wrong as long as everything turns out OK :nixweiss

 

[dfoxengr]

Definitely. Basically my plan is to follow bottle instructions unless they are not there, then if not, I'll probably let set depending on how much time I have to wait around.



Thanks guys

 

[Leadfootluke]

Depending on the temp, humidity, panel temp, etc 845 can either set up and haze before being removed, or be applied and removed immediately before hazing. Just test some areas out but as others have said apply it as thin as you can.

 

[dfoxengr]

I gather that 845 is considered one of the best organic waxes out there in terms of durability?

 

[togwt]

Wax Application



Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturer’s instructions on specific products) is usually more than sufficient; this will allow the solvents to outgas, which will be dependent upon ambient temperature / humidity. Remove with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (polyester/polyamide Microfiber removes too much wax) and a fine mist spray bottle filled with ice cold distilled water (Swiss Wax or Groit’s Garage - 100% Cotton Buffing Cloths



Wax when applied to a surface will not adhere properly on its own, it is necessary to add specialized miscible oils and polymers to allow the waxy material to spread and adhere evenly to the surface. A wax doesn’t form a molecular bond (cross-link), nor does it cure, it sets-up and forma sub-micron ‘shell’ type coating.



No matter how thick you apply any wax, only so much of it can adhere to the surface and form a ‘shell’. There is only a finite amount of product required to form a thin uniform layer on a substrate; using too much just wastes product, lengthens the drying process, and makes removal more difficult.



FWIW: Collinite is a synthetic wax

 

[Accumulator]

I gather that 845 is considered one of the best organic waxes out there in terms of durability?

-AND-

FWIW: Collinite is a synthetic wax

Yeah, we call Insulator Wax a "wax" kinda like FinishKare calls FK1000P a "Hi-Temp Wax".

Allowing a Carnauba wax or Glaze to set-up for 45-60 minutes (see manufacturer’s instructions on specific products) is usually more than sufficient; this will allow the solvents to outgas.... Remove with a 100% cotton micro fibre towel (polyester/polyamide Microfiber removes too much wax)...

Not to :argue, but I've done some fairly extensive (and reasonably controlled) tests that did not confirm that bit about conventional MF removing more/too much (natural/carnauba) wax. Zero observable indication that it happens.



Likewise, the "no-nap" MF vs. plush MF comparisons (same argument about plush MFs removing too much wax) showed zero difference in any observable criteria. Given the way cotton (yeah, even cotton MF such as DFT/CBT) causes much more (micro)marring for me, I'm sticking with (synthetic) MF, especially as I could observe no downside.



Eh, I feel a bit sheepish posting that as I really don't want to be :boink: some of the people who've propagated that idea (not only my pal TOGWT but also one of my favorite vendors) But I did bother to test it and that's what I found.



One area where I *do* give the nod to cotton is in the way it can "open up" applications of products like FK1000P, making immediate layering more feasible (got that from Ron Ketcham). I'll even allow that this is perhaps why I've had issues with layering FK1000P. Not that I'm gonna switch to cotton and risk marring over it :grinno:

 

[Dan]

I've noticed a direct correlation in drying time on paint to actual durability. The trick is getting it off before it gets too hard to remove, though that isn't an issue with the Collinites.