Waxes with coating properties,

I finally ordered FK1000P and 425 and plan to strip the 22PLE off my car next weekend. Coatings just aren't doing it for me. I've tried CQUK, GTechniq and 22PLE and they're either too fussy or just don't offer the protection that I feel I should be getting. For example, I have a 5 stage RODI system in my garage so my car gets pressure washed, soap washed and final rinsed with 0 TDS deionized water. I'm still getting spots on my black 911 Turbo! I had a nightmare spotting issue with GTechniq on my wife's black Mercedes the very first time I washed it. The problem cost me another full weekend of polishing and switching products. I'm just fed up with the whole coating thing and miss the ease and simplicity of just throwing on a coat of wax every few weekends.

- Patrick

If I may ask, what was the problem with the 22ple? That's The one I had the best luck with in the past.
 
Also, have you considered gloss coat? Optimum claims you can top it with a wax or sealant. It hasn't been out that long so I've not tried it, just throwing that out there.
 
I had a lot of issues with reload streaking, carpros stuff has been less than impressive to me. The other brands I'd be willing to give a shot. I'll likely just polish the car and coat with 22ple vx3 the next time. I'll just need something that won't spot with our horrible water here

It suck that you had issues with Reload. I have been using it since it cam out and have not had any issues with it. But there was that one batch that everyone hated. Luckily I had a stock of the previous original formula and didn't buy any. I will admit the new formula doesn't seem to be an upgrade IMO. Personally I wish they could go back to the original.


IMO water spotting is an issue for all "glass coatings". They are have crazy beading that helps to concentrate the issue when the water evaporates and leaves behind concentrated spots of "stuff" on a a car. So far I am finding that waxes really are better at helping to protect against water spotting but they need to be re-applied so mush more often to maintain that high level.

 
It suck that you had issues with Reload. I have been using it since it cam out and have not had any issues with it. But there was that one batch that everyone hated. Luckily I had a stock of the previous original formula and didn't buy any. I will admit the new formula doesn't seem to be an upgrade IMO. Personally I wish they could go back to the original.


IMO water spotting is an issue for all "glass coatings". They are have crazy beading that helps to concentrate the issue when the water evaporates and leaves behind concentrated spots of "stuff" on a a car. So far I am finding that waxes really are better at helping to protect against water spotting but they need to be re-applied so mush more often to maintain that high level.


Yes, they do, but I guess I don't mind doing it when I can just grab my PC and add a quick layer of powerlock or something on. I like the scratch resistance of the coatings, and to be fair to CQUK, this town water is indeed the worst I have seen...ever.
 
pmnewton- I'll be interested to hear how the FK1000P works for you. I dunno about how you'll like its look on black, *or* how it'll do regarding waterspots. But I sure do hope you like it as much as I do.
 
If I may ask, what was the problem with the 22ple? That's The one I had the best luck with in the past.

It's massively overpriced and no matter what anyone says, I'm convinced it's just GTechniq C1; just like Zaino is Duragloss. I'm getting spotting after washes and rainstorms and the beading just really isn't that great unless I top it with ReLoad which streaks on any dark color I've tried. ReLoad wrecked my clear bra too. Very blotchy and unattractive. The dirt shedding of 22PLE is poor compared even to lowly sealants I have used and I just don't generally like the way it does its job.

pmnewton- I'll be interested to hear how the FK1000P works for you. I dunno about how you'll like its look on black, *or* how it'll do regarding waterspots. But I sure do hope you like it as much as I do.

Well... I hope so too. Can you tell me if there's a significant solvent load to it? I'm not sure if I want to use in on my clearfilm or if it would do more harm than good. If FK1000P provides good dirt shedding and spotting protection then I'll be happy. I think if the look is too bland I'll just top it with Blackfire Hybrid Montan Wax. Thoughts?

- Patrick
 
It's massively overpriced and no matter what anyone says, I'm convinced it's just GTechniq C1; just like Zaino is Duragloss. I'm getting spotting after washes and rainstorms and the beading just really isn't that great unless I top it with ReLoad which streaks on any dark color I've tried. ReLoad wrecked my clear bra too. Very blotchy and unattractive. The dirt shedding of 22PLE is poor compared even to lowly sealants I have used and I just don't generally like the way it does its job.



Well... I hope so too. Can you tell me if there's a significant solvent load to it? I'm not sure if I want to use in on my clearfilm or if it would do more harm than good. If FK1000P provides good dirt shedding and spotting protection then I'll be happy. I think if the look is too bland I'll just top it with Blackfire Hybrid Montan Wax. Thoughts?

- Patrick

I can tell you that when I open the can, bugs magically go away lol
 
That's interesting on the 22ple, I've had the opposite results, CQUK was horrible for me, it's still not all off my car, but as soon as I get my garage back I might try the synergy hybrid wax.
 
Are the "problems" of spotting and so forth user-application related OR is it product related??

OK, so I am opening a BIG can of worms with this question, BUT user-error of improper prepping and application for/with coatings seems to be a common denominator to those problems. Just saying...

With the price of coatings as they are, and their "proprietary formulas" for each manufacturer (Don't even question/debate who is reselling someone else's formulations!) with unique application techniques, it is any wonder that this very thread has been started.

That said, I think professional detailers who have the manufacturer's education and training/experience with their particular coating just do not have these problems. That leads to the second can of worms: having pro or enthusiast detailers as manufacturer's coating-licensed/trained authorized dealers/applicators. To me it's still about hands-on, real-world experience and not trial-and-error, but-I-can-do-it that results in who can and cannot get the "proper" results with coatings.
 
Are the "problems" of spotting and so forth user-application related OR is it product related??

OK, so I am opening a BIG can of worms with this question, BUT user-error of improper prepping and application for/with coatings seems to be a common denominator to those problems. Just saying...

With the price of coatings as they are, and their "proprietary formulas" for each manufacturer (Don't even question/debate who is reselling someone else's formulations!) with unique application techniques, it is any wonder that this very thread has been started.

That said, I think professional detailers who have the manufacturer's education and training/experience with their particular coating just do not have these problems. That leads to the second can of worms: having pro or enthusiast detailers as manufacturer's coating-licensed/trained authorized dealers/applicators. To me it's still about hands-on, real-world experience and not trial-and-error, but-I-can-do-it that results in who can and cannot get the "proper" results with coatings.

I fail to see how a coatings tendency to spot is related to user error. Does the formula somehow magically change when a "pro" uses it vs an enthusiast? If it looked like crap and ran or had high spots all over the place you could then ask the questions you are asking. Again, a coating doesn't just all of a sudden chemically change depending on who's hands it touches.
 
pmnewton said:
Well... I hope so too. Can you tell me if there's a significant solvent load to it? I'm not sure if I want to use in on my clearfilm or if it would do more harm than good. If FK1000P provides good dirt shedding and spotting protection then I'll be happy. I think if the look is too bland I'll just top it with Blackfire Hybrid Montan Wax. Thoughts?

Huh, you've stumped me! I honestly don't know if it's *really* OK to use the FK1000P over clear films. I did use it over the PPF on the Yukon I had (that metallic black vehicle) and didn't notice any issues at all.

I myself would use it and not worry (hey, that's what I did on the Yukon) but I don't want to give you bad advice. Wonder what the folks at FK would say if you called them up.

I've never topped it,but since FK sells their Pink Wax for just that purpose I'd expect any other wax topper to work fine. I would, of course, expect the topper to change the beading/dirt-shedding/etc. characteristics to reflect how that product behaves (as opposed to the FK1000P) and for that reason I wouldn't do it, but then I'm not in that "final 5% of critical LSP appearance diffs" demographic either.
 
... I'm not in that "final 5% of critical LSP appearance diffs" demographic either.

Hah! Neither am I. I just want good protection and relatively easy maintenance. My prep work will stand up under intense scrutiny and that's where the majority of the "look" comes from.

- Patrick
 
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