silverfox
New member
If I`m polishing, I`m claying first. Otherwise no need. Claying can mar or haze no matter how careful you are. In most cases claying should be followed with polishing.
Wax/Sealent for long(er) term protection - Recommendations for two cars
- Thread starter anhizer
- Start date
APC, Dawn, CG Citrus and IPA have all been shown to not really remove a good quality sealant/wax. The best method is to just give it a light polishing with a pure finishing polish that doesn`t leave much behind. After polishing with HD Polish I just give the finish a wipe down with ONR to remove any dust, but you can`t fault an IPA wipe down.
BTW--Finish Kare 1000p is not an organic wax (Carnuba or Montan)--it is a pure synthetic sealant.
LINK: LSP stripping
Loach
New member
A drop in the aggressive beading is normal. If the water is going completely flat and really sticking there after your wash and rinse with soap, then something might be interfering with the bond to the paint. Even with Blackfire Wet Diamond you should see a nice sheet of water being repelled at a consistent rate well passed the 1 month mark and FK1000P should still have a very noticeable footprint even if the paint is not garaged. I recommend you give the paint a light polish with a true abrasive to prep, then put FK1000P on half the hood and Blackfire Wet Diamond on the other half. Since both of them have very different water behaviors from the very start, you can use the difference in how they behave in the long term to make a better call on whether or not they`ve really survived.
Other than FK1000P, your next step up in extreme beading is Sonax Polymer Net Shield like SGM2008 recommended. But the products you currently have should be working longer and before you try to move into other products or paint coatings you have to pinpoint why there is a current hit in the durability.
Other than FK1000P, your next step up in extreme beading is Sonax Polymer Net Shield like SGM2008 recommended. But the products you currently have should be working longer and before you try to move into other products or paint coatings you have to pinpoint why there is a current hit in the durability.
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
Auto Finesse Tough Coat Prep has worked for me a good way to prep paint. It is easy to apply and removes very cleanly compared to some traditional pre-wax cleaners.
rlmccarty2000
Active member
Everyone has given great advice. I would go with a coating and I like PBL paint coating. It is easy to apply and you can wax over it if you want to do so. A coating will give you more protection against bird bombs and other environmental concerns. Just prep well and know that any defects in the paint will be magnified by this coating.
4u2nvinmtl
New member
What soap and media are you using to wash? Possibly there`s road film interfering with the beading.
Do you use a drying aid? I find using a good WW as a drying aid helps a lot!
I got great results using Menz SF4000, 2x CarPro Eraser wipe downs, and 2 layers of FK1000P 12+ hours appart.
Accumulator had also recommended I try multiple layers of FK1000P each layer applied after the next few initial weekly washes (that worked extremely).
Also with FK1000P I find less is better, you don`t want to see fine lines of FK1000P (over application pictured below)
As far as recommendations I found that in the long run Collinite 476s outperformed FK1000p in terms of beading but other than that they were virtually equally matched (FK1000P had more gloss on my silver paint, IMHO). If my LSP winter durability test taught me anything it`s that coatings are the new king in town. My hood (coated with WG Uber Ceramic) beads much stronger and stays much cleaner than any other conventional LSP I tested. It also has more gloss and better reflections in the long run (at first they all look equal it`s only after 3+ months I noticed the coating was still kicking but).
As mjlinane said if your in OCDetailing`s area I`d strongly consider getting a professional coating applied by him, his work is outstanding (got lost on his web page for hours looking at his work)
Do you use a drying aid? I find using a good WW as a drying aid helps a lot!
I got great results using Menz SF4000, 2x CarPro Eraser wipe downs, and 2 layers of FK1000P 12+ hours appart.
Accumulator had also recommended I try multiple layers of FK1000P each layer applied after the next few initial weekly washes (that worked extremely).
Also with FK1000P I find less is better, you don`t want to see fine lines of FK1000P (over application pictured below)
As far as recommendations I found that in the long run Collinite 476s outperformed FK1000p in terms of beading but other than that they were virtually equally matched (FK1000P had more gloss on my silver paint, IMHO). If my LSP winter durability test taught me anything it`s that coatings are the new king in town. My hood (coated with WG Uber Ceramic) beads much stronger and stays much cleaner than any other conventional LSP I tested. It also has more gloss and better reflections in the long run (at first they all look equal it`s only after 3+ months I noticed the coating was still kicking but).
As mjlinane said if your in OCDetailing`s area I`d strongly consider getting a professional coating applied by him, his work is outstanding (got lost on his web page for hours looking at his work)
Vegas1
Member
FK1000P has been my winter wax/sealant for over 9 years now. Two coats in Oct. does the job. It will always last until April. It`s still going strong in May due to a fairly mild New England winter.
Accumulator
Well-known member
IME layering the FK1000P makes a big diff. I still advocate waiting between coats (due to the time I didn`t wait very long and had issues) but the last time I did it I only waited a few days and it worked out fine. I wouldn`t go overboard though, three layers is about my limit then I wait until the beading changes a little before I do it again.
I had similar results with FinishKare 1000P.
It left a really nice look but it didn`t seem to bead very well at all.
But then again I`ve prabably been spoiled by Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax and Ultimate Quick Wax.
Two of the best beading products I`ve ever tried.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I`m still scratching my head about how the FK1000P doesn`t always bead that well for others...mine`s still giving me great beading despite not having redone either for ages. Guess it`s just that YMMV thing...
Migue
New member
IME , i did a 50/50(more like 60/40
) on my Nissan`s hood with 845 and FK , and the FK side caused the water to sheet off a lot more than 845. See pic below how the passenger side has a lot more beading than driver side which has FK1kp . I only rinsed it with a garden hose while standing in front of the car(i wasn`t trying to assist any sheeting,just a normal randomly positioned rinse off) after a wash,then sprayed it with a wider/more open nozzle pattern to try and replicate falling rain and that was it, the water rolled off by itself on the FK side and the 845 just held it on there all beaded up. I`ll take sheeting over beading personally since beads evaporate and become dirt spots. MAYBE the way FK behaves with sheeting, causes us to not see beading that is *as* consistent with other LSPs??? Attachments
tenblade2001
New member
I have Sonax PNS on my M3 and it has done very well. 6mo still beads like crazy, granted I give it a boost with BSD but I`ve been happy with the level of protection
Migue-- perhaps it`s the sheeting of FK1000p that accounts for the lack of water spots I`ve experience since using it on my lighter colored car. I`m going to apply it to my wife`s black Golf this spring in hopes it will minimize the spotting we get with other LSPs. Perhaps it won`t have the "wet" look, but if I can minimize the spotting it will be worth it.
How does the PNS perform with regards to "self cleaning" and bird bomb protection?
I`d like to thank you all for this thread. As a result. I picked up a can of the FK1000p.
I was looking for something especially good for the steel wheels on my car. They show through the hub caps. I want to avoid the wheels ever getting rust. I see so many cars with the wheels rusty. I don`t want to be obsessive. Just keep the car stand up looking. Might even use it on the plastic hub caps?
I was looking for something especially good for the steel wheels on my car. They show through the hub caps. I want to avoid the wheels ever getting rust. I see so many cars with the wheels rusty. I don`t want to be obsessive. Just keep the car stand up looking. Might even use it on the plastic hub caps?
Migue
New member
I got it on my Alloy Wheels and it is still holding up after 6 months ,weekly washes and daily driving on stop and go traffic for the most part. I only used a cleaner the first time, and after applying the FK on wheels it`s just been rinseless solution or leftover soapy water from traditional wash. Nothing else needed.