Water spots suck

J

JSFM35X

Active member
I had washed my car after the sun was down after work a few weeks ago and since my brakes were hot I washed the car first.

surprisingly I got the car and glass pretty water spotted.

I’ve spent too much tine getting them off. I still have the rear deck lid and the glass.

I sidelined for a few weeks recovering from some minor surgery and I am using this tine to make sure I can knock those out first task back.

Does anyone add onr to the wash bucket in conjunction to wash soap to prevent spitting.

I’m using a water spot remover on the paint. And will be trying eco glass on a buffer thanks to Justin sharing his experience.

Keep you all posted.
 
JSFM35X said:
I had washed my car after the sun was down after work a few weeks ago and since my brakes were hot I washed the car first.

surprisingly I got the car and glass pretty water spotted.

I’ve spent too much tine getting them off. I still have the rear deck lid and the glass.

I sidelined for a few weeks recovering from some minor surgery and I am using this tine to make sure I can knock those out first task back.

Does anyone add onr to the wash bucket in conjunction to wash soap to prevent spitting.

I’m using a water spot remover on the paint. And will be trying eco glass on a buffer thanks to Justin sharing his experience.

Keep you all posted.
Click to expand...




Why don`t you just wash with ONR.....?
 
Adding ONR to car wash soap should soften the water and reduce water spots... but if you add too much, all suds will disappear and you’ll essentially be washing with a rinseless wash soap that requires rinsing. I would just add 0.5-1oz to a full wash bucket first and see how that does.

From my experience with RWs and limited experience adding it to wash soap, if you don’t dry fast enough it may leave residue water spots, but these always seem to come out easily for me when I dry or worst case quick QD wipe if I’m really slow during drying. Much easier than normal water spots alone would.
 
Water spots suck. One shouldn’t have to move at the speed of a cheetah to dry a vehicle

Water is too bad at my house I can’t hose wash. I’m strictly rinseless or waterless at home


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My suggestion? Wash with distilled water. Even "softened" water still has salt in it used in the softening process. You will need about 5-6 gallon, depending on the size of the vehicle (2-1/2 for soap, 3-1/2 for rinse). Is it worth it?? $6 for distilled water from a store can save you ALOT of grief and time trying to remove water spots.

OR, make your own homemade de-ionized water system (CR Spotless):
https://www.autopia.org/forums/prof...-deionized-water-wash.html?highlight=homemade

Your request for adding something to car wash soap bucket to soften hard (high mineral content) water has been kind of a Holy Grail to car washing . Yes, I`ve added Optimum No-Rinse to car wash soap with hopes of reducing the spotting you experience.

The closest soap within this forum that kind of "minimizes" this spotting problem was what now deceased Forum All-Star Ronkh wrote in his thread about McKee`s 37 SIO2 Soap. It is worth reading and considering:
https://www.autopia.org/forums/deta...294-ultimate-torture-test.html?highlight=wash
The photo links no longer show due to Bucketlist`s licensing requirements. My questions are in Post #8 and Ron`s response in #9.
They are similar to what you are asking.

As far as getting rid of water spots, if you find a product that REALLY works well, let us know. I bought Optimum`s Mineral Deposit Remover (OMDR) but it requires two steps;1) apply it to a surface (mine was windows) and let work and then wipe it off, 2) clean it off with Power Clean or their Car Wash and dry. I was hoping it would be one-step wipe-on-wipe-off (WOWO). You really do need to clean it off or it leaves smears on windows by itself, at least in my experience. Kind of (a big) disappointing, considering all the great experiences I have with other Optimum products (ONR, Power Clean, Metal Polish, Opti-Bond Tire Gel, and Carpet and Fabric Cleaner-Protectant)
 
Lonnie said:
My suggestion? Wash with distilled water. Even "softened" water still has salt in it used in the softening process...
Click to expand...

FWIW, and there are a lot of variables involved, I`ve *not* had issues washing/rinsing with soft water. It can still spot (depending on how the water quality is pre-softening and whether the softener is working right), but those spots are usually pretty easy to remove. And if you run a deionizer, the soft water allows the resin to last a *very* long time.

But then I couldn`t "wash with distilled water" anyhow as I use countless gallons and rely on both water volume and pressure to get the job done. I don`t really get it...there are areas that I spend a *LOT* of time/water flushing out and I can`t see how I`d clean those any other way...what am I missing? OR...is it that my vehicles get dirtier than an Autopian oughta let them?!? (Guilty as charged :o )

Sure not flaming the use of Distilled Water though! (Oh [heck] I trust you know I`m not arguing with you or anything like that anyhow..) That`s how I mix my RW/etc. The local, uhm...Water Store...sells 5 gallon jugs of it for $3.75, which is cheaper than I`ve seen in any grocery/etc.

TheMeanGreen]Why don`t you just wash with ONR.....?
Click to expand...

Heh heh, perhaps JSFM35X, like Yours Truly, can`t wash marring-free with just a RW ;)
 
I second the idea of using McKees si02 soap. AMAZING stuff. It is nerve racking the first time you consciously let the soap dry on the car (in direct sun) cause it is a streaky mess. However it does rinse cleanly. I`ve used a half gallon already (washed a lot of cars), even used it for clay lube (just used the wash soap) with no negative effect on the clay either (McKees clay). Stuff is amazing for a mobile detailer.

It`s become a good practice of mine to soap up the wheels while I wash the car as well just to prevent spotting (If I have cleaned and sealed them before washing). I seal wheels with hydro blue (or similar spray and rinse coating) and the soap has no effect on it. Allows for a clean rinse and the protection stays put.

I`m not sure if the si02 is supposed to leave any type of "protection" behind as I`ve washed and clayed numerous cars with it and the water lays flat as a pancake.
 
ShaneB said:
I`m not sure if the si02 is supposed to leave any type of "protection" behind as I`ve washed and clayed numerous cars with it and the water lays flat as a pancake.
Click to expand...

Guz Received word from Nick that Mckees SiO2 soap does not lay any measurable protection down. The SiO2 in it only fills in microscopic holes to get the gloss effect.
 
The sio2 soap from mckees always intrigued me especially after the late great Ron had the pics of it in the sun in Florida

But my hang up is the water will still spot the soap maybe not but what about the water

How do I get around that issue. And the cost of a DI setup isn’t gonna happen at my home. I would like the ability to bucket wash when I wanted to but the water is just not allowing me to

I don’t necessarily want to buy a bottle of soap that’s gonna be used once and go with the dozens of other products I tell myself I will use one day


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top