Wash, Clay, AIO, then UPP?

SmoothAsGlass

New member
First off, thanks alot go out to both NYV6Coupe and mtodde for all their suggestions and feedback!

Just purchased a new satin silver 2005 Honda CRV EX. The paint appears to be flawless, but I have come to learn by now from all the great information on here, there is always room for improvement. Below is my plan of attack and any and all comments are appreciated:

1. Wash the vehicle.
2. Use ClayMagic Blue.
3. Apply AIO by hand and remove with the PC using NYV6Coupe's "trap the towel" method.
4. Apply UPP by hand and remove with the "trap the towel" method.
5. Wait a couple of days and repeat Step 4.
6. Repeat Step 5 one or two more times.
7. Maintain the appearance with a detailer spray.
 
Im not firmiliar with the trap the towel method but your plan looks good. make sure to get us some pics! Good luck

Greg
 
It sounds great but can you explain to me this "trap the towel" thing, I've not heard of this one. If you have a PC why not use that with a polish pad and the AIO? You will get better results than by hand and what AIO are you using?

I think that you might have something mixed up here, you say wait afew days repeat step 1, that to wash the car, then repeat step 5 which is "Wait a couple of days and repeat Step 1" I'd have to say that you are going to be driving a really well washed car every few days:rolling
 
Beemerboy said:
It sounds great but can you explain to me this "trap the towel" thing, I've not heard of this one. If you have a PC why not use that with a polish pad and the AIO? You will get better results than by hand and what AIO are you using?

I haven't tried it yet, but the idea seems to be using a MF towel between the surface and a pad on the PC; AIO = Klasse All In One and UPP = Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection.

Beemerboy said:
I think that you might have something mixed up here, you say wait afew days repeat step 1, that to wash the car, then repeat step 5 which is "Wait a couple of days and repeat Step 1" I'd have to say that you are going to be driving a really well washed car every few days:rolling

Oops! Typo, note the correction above, but either way, the car is still going be clean. :jump
 
I was at a local detailer and he was doing that with a buffer and a terry towel, not sure how effect it was but saved the elbow grease looked like.
 
Forgot to include in the original posting:

Hi-Temp's Grape Tire Dressing

Now the question is any suggestions where all of these products can be ordered from one site at the best price?
 
beemerboy & gregcavi: I coined the "trap the towel" phrase when I was PM'ing SmoothAsGlass.

I like using this method for removing any and all residue 'cause it saves wear-n-tear on my arms and, IMHO, I think the dry residue micro-polishes/burnishes the paint. I have an old 6" LC pad that's getting a bit ragged and it holds a MF towel like velcro.

Yes, you can buy MF bonnets but why not use the MF's you already have & let 'em do double duty. Also, using this method gives you the choice of quality and plush-side/short-nap side and the MF will hold whatever dust is produced by the residue.

I tried this when I was taking off Collinite residue last fall (I heard Collinite was a bear to remove) and the finished surface was incredibly slick .... slicker than a portion I did by hand.

Give it a try, what have you got to lose.
 
The "Trap the Towel" removal method has been around for quite some time.
The following information was in a post I made back in 2002.
CharlesW said:
The new thing for me was how I removed the UPP. I left it on for about an hour since my garage was only 60 degrees. It came off quite easily, again as expected. The difference was the method I used. I placed my 4 Star MF towel on the vehicle surface, put a finishing pad on my PC, set the speed to #4 , placed it on the MF and removed the UPP with absolutely no effort. Again, had to use the MF by hand around some areas of the roof rack and door handles.
I wish I could take credit for the MF and PC for removal idea, but I did hear about it on another site. It works quite well.

Update: While I had no problem with the PC speed at 4 while removing the UPP, the suggested speed setting was 1. Guess I was lucky, but I had good results set at 4. I will try using the slower speed the next time I am removing product.
As I said then, it wasn't my original idea. I stole it from someone else.:D

Charles
 
charles: I wasn't implying that I came up with a new idea, I simply came up with a cutesy name .... used some alliteration & sounds nice. If someone else called it "trap the towel" then kudos to them, it's a great idea.

I'm sure the procedure has been used many times before by people with rotaries as well as PC's, I just found it to be a method that works great for me & I thought I'd share my process with everyone.

Saves time, saves your arm, makes use of MF's that you already have, leaves the surface really slick .... what's not to like.
 
NYV6Coupe said:
charles: I wasn't implying that I came up with a new idea, I simply came up with a cutsey name .... used some aliteration & sounds nice. If someone else called it "trap the towel" then kudos to them, it's a great idea.

I'm sure the procedure has been used many times before by people with rotaries as well as PC's, I just found it to be a method that works great for me & I thought I'd share my process with everyone.
LOL
I think it was just called removing wax or sealant with a PC and MF.
I can't even remember who I stole the idea from. I do remember that it was back in my Autopia days.:)

Charles
 
NYV6Coupe, don't think I could have said it better myself :jump

NYV6Coupe said:
Saves time, saves your arm, makes use of MF's that you already have, leaves the surface really slick .... what's not to like.
 
If the brand new car were mine, I wouldn't clay her just yet. The less steps you can do to preserve your finish the better. You don't want more steps than is necessary.

Claying can induce swirls of their own, esp. when the bar picks up a piece of grit and DRAGS it across the paint.

If you ARE set on using a clay bar, make sure you knead to a new surface FREQUENTLY.

I think the AIO will clean the paint enough. And you'll love the look of AIO/UPP.

Another thing, when washing, don't use more than 1 oz of car wash shampoo. Using too much robs your sealant of its durability.

Welcome to the wonderful world of detailing!!!
 
If the brand new car were mine, I wouldn't clay her just yet. The less steps you can do to preserve your finish the better. You don't want more steps than is necessary.





Dpeezy

Clay is a non-abrasive and will not induce any swirls worth worrying about, a far less than any dealer will put on it while washing them on the lots.
On a new car there CAN be rail dust that settles on the bumpers and the top of the car, also plenty of pollution that can settle in from sitting in lots waiting to be sold.
I always clay a new car to get the finish as clean as possible then protect, looking forward
 
dpeezy415 said:
If the brand new car were mine, I wouldn't clay her just yet. The less steps you can do to preserve your finish the better. You don't want more steps than is necessary.

Brand new is when the car needs claying more than any other time IMO. Clay a brand new one and see why. :)
 
Using AIO and UPP WITHOUT claying?????

dpeezy415 said:
If the brand new car were mine, I wouldn't clay her just yet. The less steps you can do to preserve your finish the better. You don't want more steps than is necessary.

Claying can induce swirls of their own, esp. when the bar picks up a piece of grit and DRAGS it across the paint.

If you ARE set on using a clay bar, make sure you knead to a new surface FREQUENTLY.

I think the AIO will clean the paint enough. And you'll love the look of AIO/UPP.

Another thing, when washing, don't use more than 1 oz of car wash shampoo. Using too much robs your sealant of its durability.

Welcome to the wonderful world of detailing!!!
 
SmoothAsGlass said:
Using AIO and UPP WITHOUT claying?????
Sure. I do it all the time. In taking care of 7 vehicles the past 2.5 years, I have clayed one time. All the other full details were done with a swirl remover, Klasse AIO and UPP.
During that time, I did use some different swirl removers, polishes and LSP's, but I always seem to return to the AIO/UPP combo after a swirl removal product.

One disclaimer: Ankeny, Iowa isn't exactly the industrial capital of the world and we probably don't have near the contaminant problem that some of you face.

Charles
 
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