wash and wax in the cold

Dtrick.22 said:
Yes it would be the best idea, but still..WHY NOT use a wash and wax soap when it is the same price!!!!!! It won't offer any lasting solid protection but using that vs. a regular soap is a no brainer. Can you answer me this, How will that have a negative effect on his car or his wallet?
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Washing with that soap is fine but most seem to be saying that it will provide protection for the winter.
I'm trying to point out unsuccessfully I may add that if he puts forth a little effort he can surly find a place to get the car inside and wash and apply a wax or better yet a sealant that would last.

Please explain your problem with that. :surrender

I understand he don't have a garage neither do some of my friends but they don't need to spend 50K on a shop full of tools they just use mine.
Their has to be somewhere that he could use even if he had to pay a small fee for the use of the building and heat.

Your argument is no problem with using this soap and I agree but I'm saying do NOT do it outside when all you need to do is put forth a little effort to find a place to detail it inside with heat.
I don't mind my friends using my garage but they have to ask I'm not going out of my way to get them to do it and he would have to do the same.
I know if I was faced with this problem I could come up with a better solution than washing it outside in the winter.
 
Just to stir the pot. :D
Are any waxes or sealants water based?
Aren't all of them using some form of mineral spirits or petroleum distillate keeping the wax/sealant in suspension?
If water is a good way to get the wax on the paint, why isn't it used more commonly. Maybe it is for all I know. :)

Does a car wash that leaves wax on the paint have an adverse effect on a sealant bonding to that paint? That is something I have wondered about with many wash products.
Maybe another thread discussing the effect on an LSP from what wash products leave behind would be of interest to some.
FWIW, I use several that probably leave something behind and have never noticed any problem, but I only go 4 - 6 weeks between wax/sealant applications, so my circumstances are different than many.
Twice a year, I put Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on the three vehicles that my family drives that I rarely see during the winter. They get drive-thru washes, (without the wax which they think smears on the windshield), and the paint still looks good on all three. A 1998, a 1999, and a 2000 that are outside 365/24/7.

As far as beading after a wash/wax product, a QD will do that.
Kind of reminds me of the guy that knew the drive-thru car wash was putting wax on his car because he could smell it.

Since you can wash/wax then rinse and drive away, this system will be even easier than using WOWA products like Opti-Seal. :)
 
Having or having access to an indoor and preferably heated space would be ideal,but it isn't as easy to find as it sounds.
If I didn't have a garage, I don't think I would feel comfortable asking someone to use theirs.
I did ask about renting a space a few years back and 2 places offered it at no charge. That lasted a year or so and then the question of liability came up and they both decided against it.
 
CharlesW said:
Just to stir the pot. :D
Are any waxes or sealants water based?
Aren't all of them using some form of mineral spirits or petroleum distillate keeping the was/sealant in suspension?
If water is a good way to get the wax on the paint, why isn't it used more commonly. Maybe it is for all I know. :)

Does a car wash that leaves wax on the paint have an adverse effect on a sealant bonding to that paint? That is something I have wondered about with many wash products.
Maybe another thread discussing the effect on an LSP from what wash products leave behind would be of interest to some.
FWIW, I use several that probably leave something behind and have never noticed any problem, but I only go 4 - 6 weeks between wax/sealant applications, so my circumstances are different than many.
Twice a year, I put Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on the three vehicles that my family drives that I rarely see during the winter. They get drive-thru washes, (without the wax which they think smears on the windshield), and the paint still looks good on all three. A 1998, a 1999, and a 2000 that are outside 365/24/7.

As far as beading after a wash/wax product, a QD will do that.
Kind of reminds me of the guy that knew the drive-thru car wash was putting wax on his car because he could smell it.

Since you can wash/wax then rinse and drive away, this system will be even easier than using WOWA products like Opti-Seal. :)
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I agree with the part about smearing the windshield my wife run her car through the tunnel wash a few years ago and she thought she would do the right thing and get the wax. :wow:

I don't think it done much for the paint but it did screw up the windshield where it would smear when you used the wipers.

This whole dilemma could be avoided by applying a good sealant in the fall before the weather turns off cold.

I apply DG-105 to all of my DD once a year do it every fall just before it turns cold and only wash through the winter.

A little planing ahead saves a lot of trouble later.
 
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CharlesW said:
Just to stir the pot. :D
Are any waxes or sealants water based? Yes, as evidenced by all the wash/wax, wash/sealants available on the market.
Aren't all of them using some form of mineral spirits or petroleum distillate keeping the wax/sealant in suspension? No, oviously not (see above)
If water is a good way to get the wax on the paint, why isn't it used more commonly. Maybe it is for all I know. :) Because it probably isn't the most efficient way to protect (with more protection) a vehicle. It's made for people who can't or wax/seal for whatever reason

Does a car wash that leaves wax on the paint have an adverse effect on a sealant bonding to that paint? I'd say most probably so. Maybe not so much a pure "wax" since there is no bonding. But traditional sealants do not bond to wax. That is something I have wondered about with many wash products.
Maybe another thread discussing the effect on an LSP from what wash products leave behind would be of interest to some.
FWIW, I use several that probably leave something behind and have never noticed any problem, but I only go 4 - 6 weeks between wax/sealant applications, so my circumstances are different than many.
Twice a year, I put Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on the three vehicles that my family drives that I rarely see during the winter. They get drive-thru washes, (without the wax which they think smears on the windshield), and the paint still looks good on all three. A 1998, a 1999, and a 2000 that are outside 365/24/7.

As far as beading after a wash/wax product, a QD will do that.
Kind of reminds me of the guy that knew the drive-thru car wash was putting wax on his car because he could smell it.

Since you can wash/wax then rinse and drive away, this system will be even easier than using WOWA products like Opti-Seal. :)Easier said in theory, since the sealant in opti would be exposed to moisture taking it from a warmer climate to a cooler one.
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If it doesn't work, the I'm calling Johnson wax and asking for a refund. (btw what do you use on your floors at home? you may ask for one too)

Responses in red
 
First off,I don't personally believe that a wash & wax product provides much if any protection to a car's finish.
I could be totally wrong about that and I will probably never know.

My main resistance to the idea is the fact that people using a wash & wax product think they are protecting their paint. Some think that using the wax option at the car wash is all they need to do.
Maybe that will be true, but...... If it isn't, their paint will probably be trashed and then it's too late.
Kind of like vinyl and leather protection. The way you find out the product isn't working is when your vinyl or leather turns to crap. From what I have read, the original Armor-All did more damage than doing nothing would have, but.....
All those early users thought they were protecting their investment.

Use whatever you like, but I think I will stick to separate washing and waxing/sealing.
 
wow, thanks for all the replies. It is ironic because yesterday it happened to be really warm out so I was able to wax. For the rest of the winter I think I will try a wash and wax soap. They only cost a few dollars more and i figure it is worth a try. Once it warms up again I'll do it the right way. I'll let you know how well it seems to work.
 
91black5spd said:
wow, thanks for all the replies. It is ironic because yesterday it happened to be really warm out so I was able to wax. For the rest of the winter I think I will try a wash and wax soap. They only cost a few dollars more and i figure it is worth a try. Once it warms up again I'll do it the right way. I'll let you know how well it seems to work.
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Good choices all around. :bigups
 
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