War against Glass
- Thread starter imported_Ronin
- Start date
imported_Kevin Brown
Jedi Master
It CAN scratch! ~X(
After all, we're talking steel versus glass here. Using steel wool to clean glass or chrome is not a new idea. It's certainly not foolproof, either.
Pretty safe nonetheless, if you keep an eye out for a couple of things.
Just like buffing pads or toweling, the wool pad accumulates debris. So... don't overuse it. It's so inexpensive to tear off a new piece and keep on cleaning. Avoid drama. It works very well with water or glass cleaner (keeps things lubed). Lots of guys use it with metal polishes, too. Nothing wrong with that.
Next, once you've compressed the steel to the point that its loses ability to reshape (coil and recoil, rebound, etc.), toss it. The idea is to essentially use the little strands of steel as knife-like squeegees. To accomplish this, you've got to push down on the wool, compressing it so that it will contour to the surface. If the wool becomes packed too tightly or breaks apart as its used, the steel density increases. Push a little too hard, and you'll see freshly cut scratches. NOT a good feeling!
Make sense? :cursing:
Lately, I've been using BRONZE wool, which I REALLY like.
It lasts and lasts, and won't rust when used with water. Even though its not available in 0000 grade, it seems to contour very well and hasn't caused me any grief. Factually it is more malleable than its steel counterpart. Boat guys use in a ton, as the little bronze particles won't rust, which could be a problem on a boat deck or other areas that the salty water and air could cause it to oxidize rapidly.
A company called Rhodes American makes copper wool, and even stainless steel wool for high temperatures! Google them- neat site.
Not trying to complicate things for you- just giving you some solid advice- this is Truth in Detailing, after all!
imported_detailchick
New member
Thanks for sharing Barry!
Im a fan of razor blades myself .
Im a fan of razor blades myself .
michakaveli
New member
Good info Kev! :wizard:
imported_RaskyR1
New member
Been using #0000 steel wool since day one to remove over spray and other contaminants from glass. :soldier:
Depending on what stage of the detail you are using the steel wool you may want to consider adding the use of compressed air too as you will find that tiny fibers tend to break off from the SW which could potentially end up on the paint...not a good thing when you go to remove wax or do a final wipe down.
If possible I always try to use SW prior to the final wash.
Rasky
Depending on what stage of the detail you are using the steel wool you may want to consider adding the use of compressed air too as you will find that tiny fibers tend to break off from the SW which could potentially end up on the paint...not a good thing when you go to remove wax or do a final wipe down.
If possible I always try to use SW prior to the final wash.
Rasky
imported_detailchick
New member
Thats a good point Rasky .
If im using steelwool dry I like to use a vacume to suck up the strays , often times it sucks up the whole steel wool pad though :biggrin:
If im using steelwool dry I like to use a vacume to suck up the strays , often times it sucks up the whole steel wool pad though :biggrin:
bmw5541
New member
Been using #0000 steel wool since day one to remove over spray and other contaminants from glass. :soldier:
Depending on what stage of the detail you are using the steel wool you may want to consider adding the use of compressed air too as you will find that tiny fibers tend to break off from the SW which could potentially end up on the paint...not a good thing when you go to remove wax or do a final wipe down.
If possible I always try to use SW prior to the final wash.
Rasky
Excellent point CHAD!