Very first time with rotary (Makita) using System One (junk hood)

Roishe Cheng

New member
So I bought Tom's System One Prokit along with a Makita to learn the basic techniques of the rotary machine. Again, this was my VERY first time using a rotary :). I didn't burn anything. I picked a trunk because of more edges to practice technique on.



I've been detailing approximately 10 years with a PC now, not sure why I didn't make the move to rotary sooner, but everything in good time I suppose. My detailing foundations are pretty solid but there is only so much you can do with a PC.



I picked this trunk up from a local junkyard (pulled off a 96 Chevy Lumina). Figured I'd do a quick half tape on the hood just to show the differences easier.



Trunk right out of my truck, no washing, nothing. Tons of swirls, scratches. I don't think this car ever saw a detail :). I purposefully picked a black hood because it shows everything (holograms etc.) in the sunlight.



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After a wash with NXT.

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Claying with Blackfire Polyclay. Look at the color of the clay! It was like a tarry brown when I finished with the trunk!



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Left side fully clayed

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Starting with the System One Wool pad and doing a quick temp check. I was reading between 87F - 95F on the wool. Barely anything to worry about. The foam took it up to around 99-105. Still safe.

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Fully done hood.

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Outdoor shot. The sun was already setting, so this was the best pic I could shoot.

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There are parts of the hood that have paint missing. I was pretty impressed with my first run at using a rotary. I did get some holograms even after finishing out with foam. I know this isn't a fault of the System One product, but rather my technique. After I used a bit more product and upped the speed a bit, the holograms went away. I even went at the trunk creases with no paint burn. The machine did hop and skip around a bit when I first started, but discovered that sometimes I was buffing dry, and needed to remember to keep some product on the pad at all times and work in smaller sections, and keep my arms in. By the end of the first hour, I had my technique down and the skipping and jumping on the machine was greatly minimized.



Keep in mind, this hood was REALLY messed up, most of my client cars aren't anywhere close to this. I was really surprised that I was able to bring back a really nice gloss to the paint. There is no LSP on this hood at all.



Next week I will try to refinish the RIGHT side of the trunk and update this thread with pics.
 
Great job on that. Can you measure the paint thickness again after the rotary work and post a pic? I am curious to find out how much it removed.
 
detaildoc said:
Great job on that. Can you measure the paint thickness again after the rotary work and post a pic? I am curious to find out how much it removed.

I'm pretty sure he just measured the temperature bro.
 
it's always fun when you see how much easier it is with a rotary than a RO. It's so much easier on my arm than all that pressure with an RO. Glad you enjoyed it! Careful not to get carried away though.
 
What product did you use for Polish? Did I miss that? If not (or even if so).. did you wipe down with Prepsol or 50/50 of IPA/Water to remove any swirl filling properties the polish might have?
 
Mindflux said:
It's also the quick connect adapter and the pads too. He didn't specifically mention what polish he used so didn't want to assume.



true but I thought it was a safe assumption

because he stated he bought the System One Prokit
 
Mindflux said:
What product did you use for Polish? Did I miss that? If not (or even if so).. did you wipe down with Prepsol or 50/50 of IPA/Water to remove any swirl filling properties the polish might have?



I don't have Prepsol, I do have a bottle of IPA mix though. The last shot is with it IPA'ed. I will get more detailed up close pics and clearly show before and after IPA. Thanks.
 
detaildoc said:
Great job on that. Can you measure the paint thickness again after the rotary work and post a pic? I am curious to find out how much it removed.



Thank you. I don't have a paint thickness gauge yet. The most inexpensive one I saw was approximately $300. I will invest in that in another few weeks. Recommendations are welcome and I did see some threads with some paint meter reviews as well, just wondering if there was a particular one people really liked here.
 
Gemini13 said:
Just curious as to how much product did you find worked best?



I found that too much product resulted in massive splatter, of course, however that was due to me not yet learning how to pickup and runout the bead correctly. Once I got that down, I found that I was laying approximately a 8-10" bead to work half the hood out, if that gives you any sort of idea. I really didn't have to use much at all, a little does indeed go a long way. I really like how easy it is to buff the residues out, just a quick wipe with a microfiber and the polishing residues are gone.
 
Roishe Cheng said:
I found that too much product resulted in massive splatter, of course, however that was due to me not yet learning how to pickup and runout the bead correctly. Once I got that down, I found that I was laying approximately a 8-10" bead to work half the hood out, if that gives you any sort of idea. I really didn't have to use much at all, a little does indeed go a long way. I really like how easy it is to buff the residues out, just a quick wipe with a microfiber and the polishing residues are gone.



Hey the Pro Kit comes with the new industrial adapter? The autogeek site has the picture of the old regular adapter with the Pro Kit? Im gonna buy some soon too:lol
 
My93Civic said:
Hey the Pro Kit comes with the new industrial adapter? The autogeek site has the picture of the old regular adapter with the Pro Kit? Im gonna buy some soon too:lol



Never even knew there was a difference. I bought my kit directly from SystemOneAPS.com. I can take a pic of the adapter tonight for you if you want.
 
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