Valugard A-B-C Neutralization Procedure Video

David Fermani

David Fermani

Forza Auto Salon





ValuGard Neutralization System



ValuGard Neutralization System



Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning. The ValuGard Neutralization System is the most recognized and approved chemical neutralization system in the industry. In fact, major auto manufactures have issued technical service bulletins/advisories directing their dealers and port operations to use the ValuGard System for required repairs and pre-treatment for acid rain and industrial fallout repairs. Safe for both the user and the environment, the ValuGard Neutralization System is VOC compliant and uses no carcinogenic or toxic components. Economical to use.





Acid Neutralizer - Step I

Acid Neutralizer removes all waxes, sealant, silicones, road grime, lot stains and storage stains. Neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint during transportation and storage. Removes lot stains and wax build-up. Excellent pre-wash for body shops - removes silicones, waxes and other contaminates before sanding. Saves time when applied to used vehicles, removes oxidation, reduces buff time.



MSDS: http://www.valugard.net/cms/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=/AKysvYKmLI=&tabid=73&mid=412





Alkaline Neutralizer - Step II

The second step of our Neutralization System, Alkaline Neutralizer deep-cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits. Also dissolves ferrous metal particles (rail dust) while breaking their bond to the paint so that they safely and easily float away.



MSDS: http://www.valugard.net/cms/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=fK+0bbH/R+U=&tabid=73&mid=412





Detail Wash - Step III

The third step in our neutralization process, Detail Wash is a fine vehicle wash solution designed to return the paint to its original factory pH level. A true neutral carwash shampoo - not a soap - it will not strip waxes or sealants and is safe for use on all painted surfaces, trim and wheels. Excellent for everyday use, Detail Wash produces super long-lasting suds that remove dirt without stripping waxes, polishes or sealants. 128:1 super concentrate. VOC compliant.



MSDS: http://www.valugard.net/cms/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=RYHtPq18eqM=&tabid=73&mid=412



Available through:



VALUGARD: Automotive International > Home
 
David Fermani- Glad you posted this up. Wish more people would try it, maybe seeing how simple and straightforward it is will help.



In addition to the "official method", I'll add the following, with the caveat that YMMV (so don't blame me if my suggestions cause problems) and when in doubt just do it the way AutoInt says to do it:



- Claying while "A" and/or "B" is dwelling can increase the effectiveness of both steps, but the products will dissolve/destroy the clay *very* fast and you gotta watch out for nasty trashed-clay residue

-The "bug sponge" they mention (I'd *MUCH* rather use the AutoInt/ValuGard "Bug Pad") can be useful with both the "A" and "B" steps, not just the "B"

-"A" has mediocre lubricity, so if you're not planning to do correction, I'd do a regular wash first using your usual shampoo.

-"C" isn't what I consider a great shampoo, so-so lubricity compared to ones like Griot's

-I've let "B" dwell longer than the recommended 5-7 minutes with no problems

-I try to keep "B" off glass and metallic trim, especially aluminum, as best I can, and it might be a good idea to do the same with "A" too
 
Just for clarification for someone who hasn't used this ABC system before:



Step I is A, Step II is B, Step III is C
 
Thanks, Bill.

Here is something else for all to consider.



Once in a while, when still working, a call would come in from a user of the ABC system that they had "spot's" or such on their black trim when they finished.



Due to extentisive testing by Ford, Chrysler, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, etc, in their labs, we knew that there was more involved than what the customer was stating.



None of the vehicle manufacturer's testing labs ever had such a concern result from the use of the ABC system! And this is over a time period of 15 plus years.



It was always the same, the vehicle was not new and had tons of applications of dressings on the trim over the vehicles life, due to other issues discoloring it.



These issues may have been the use of highly active solvents, oxalic acid based ferrous metal removal products, etc, or just old age and high UV exposure.



The "A" had removed the dressing as it should have, when used according to directions, which then allowed the discoloring to show.



We always recommended that they fix the trim correctly and permanently, using the ETR kit.

If they didn't wish to do that, we just told them to reapply a the dressings to the parts until they were back to square one, which would mean they would be redressing trim a whole lot of times.



Grumpy
 
Clay only "shears off" the top or blooming of ferrous metal particles (rail dust-industrial fallout), and does nothing to relieve/neutralize, the acids generated by the particles that have entered the paint film.

Same with "acid rain etches", clay will remove the deposits of the minerals that are on the surface of the paint, however, will not neutralize and remove the actually acid rain deposits from within the paint film.

Once moisture and heat are on a panel that has been clayed, the "particle or acids" will reactivate and quickly start once again to work at destroying the resin system of the paint film (binder/film former).

Clay is a great product for removing deposits that are "laying" on the surface of the paint film, such as over spray, but does not neutralize any acids or actually desolve and remove the iron/steel/ferrous metal particles from the paint.

Hope this is clear and helps you understand why the vehicle manufacturers (9 of them) require the use of the ValuGard ABC system for vehicles under their warranty.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Thanks, Bill.

Here is something else for all to consider.



Once in a while, when still working, a call would come in from a user of the ABC system that they had "spot's" or such on their black trim when they finished.



Due to extentisive testing by Ford, Chrysler, Mazda, Hyundai, Kia, Nissan, etc, in their labs, we knew that there was more involved than what the customer was stating.



None of the vehicle manufacturer's testing labs ever had such a concern result from the use of the ABC system! And this is over a time period of 15 plus years.



It was always the same, the vehicle was not new and had tons of applications of dressings on the trim over the vehicles life, due to other issues discoloring it.



These issues may have been the use of highly active solvents, oxalic acid based ferrous metal removal products, etc, or just old age and high UV exposure.



The "A" had removed the dressing as it should have, when used according to directions, which then allowed the discoloring to show.



We always recommended that they fix the trim correctly and permanently, using the ETR kit.

If they didn't wish to do that, we just told them to reapply a the dressings to the parts until they were back to square one, which would mean they would be redressing trim a whole lot of times.



Grumpy
Click to expand...



Man, I cant count the number of times that has happened to me. Luckily, me and my dad stocked up on the dressings before he retired from his bodyshop,

but, they were always a short term solution at best. I think I will be looking at getting the ETR as well when I re-up on the abc.
 
Mush-Mouth said:
Is this something should be used on every car? Doesn't a clay bar do the same thing?
Click to expand...



Adding to what Ron Ketcham posted about the diffs, and noting that I'm a *HUGE* proponent of claying...



I've had a dramatic decrease in recurring rust-blooms since using the ABC. I never really gave it much thought before, figured that any such contamination was just "new", and thus normal. But since doing the Decons I just don't experience it nearly as much.



Plus, it's just a very different *process* with different considerations. With ABC you're basically just washing the vehicle three times. With clay, you're going around the vehicle rubbing it with the clay, while trying not to cause any marring (the second clay picks up something abrasive there's a potential for marring, so no matter how often you knead/etc. it can still happen). Plus, if it gets through the lube to the paint, even mild clays can prove functionally abrasive.



When I clay, the surface is nice and smooth. But when I ABC, the paint is usually noticeably brighter in addition to being nice and smooth.



Now whether to do it on *every* detail or not, well.... I dunno if I'd go that far. And I really would be careful with the "B" (probably the "A" too) on cars like Audis with (usually compromised) aluminum trim.
 
Do you know if you have to protect canvas and vinyl convertible tops or tonneau-covered hardtops from the A & B cleaning solution ??

Or can one just wash the painted surfaces only, but be careful not to splash those cleaning solutions onto the canvas/vinyl?



I also noticed the rubber gloves for the A-part of the cleaning system, but I also assume that the safety glasses/googles are needed for this a well.

Are rubber gloves needed for the B-part??
 
Lonnie said:
Do you know if you have to protect canvas and vinyl convertible tops or tonneau-covered hardtops from the A & B cleaning solution ??

Or can one just wash the painted surfaces only, but be careful not to splash those cleaning solutions onto the canvas/vinyl?



I also noticed the rubber gloves for the A-part of the cleaning system, but I also assume that the safety glasses/googles are needed for this a well.

Are rubber gloves needed for the B-part??
Click to expand...



Notes:

1. Always: Wear gloves and eye protection

2. Use separate buckets and wash mitts for Acid Neutralizer and Detail Wash

3. Never: Use on hot surfaces or in direct sun light 4.Ingest chemical products 5.Allow products to remain in place longer than 7 minutes



Tech Tips

1. Always use separate wash mitt for products "A" and "C".

2. The use of the ValuGard Dispenser system for products "A" and "C" will ensure correct mix ratio and maximum economy.

3. Other prep or reconditioning operations should be performed during product to remain in place times for best use of labour time.



Taken from the earlier International site (pre ValuGuard)
 
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