using PC to apply paste wax

A

Asonyexec

New member
I am interested to read of any tricks or tips on how to best use my PC to apply paste wax. Maybe I should say on how to get paste wax onto a PC buffing pad. I have 3 tins of meg #16 which I want to begin using but i always defer to the liquid wax because it's easier to use with the PC.



Any tips or tricks to share??





thx
 
Asonyexec said:
I am interested to read of any tricks or tips on how to best use my PC to apply paste wax. Maybe I should say on how to get paste wax onto a PC buffing pad. I have 3 tins of meg #16 which I want to begin using but i always defer to the liquid wax because it's easier to use with the PC.



Any tips or tricks to share??





thx
Click to expand...

Some people use a butter knife or putty knife to smear the wax on the pad. Some people take the wax out of the container and smear it directly on the pad. Personally, I just do it by hand and then, if I feel my coat is uneven, I go over it with a PC on a low speed.
 
After you get the #16 on the pad (I use either a rubber-bladed spatula or a plastic razor blade when using big pads), scrape as much wax as you can back *off* the pad. It takes very little do do a vehicle (even a large one); you should be able to do numerous applications before you can tell you've used any wax at all just by looking at it in the can. Most people use a zillion times more #16 than they need to use and then often complain about it being hard to buff off. It's not like you need to use a whole tablespoon of it to do a Suburban ;)
 
I put two coats of #16 on today with a PC. I use a plastic knife and scrape just a fine sliver. I honestly think you probably get less applications per container this way when compared to applying by hand but for those of us with bad joints it makes it easier. I've popped both S100 and Souveran out of the container and brushed the whole block across the pad this works quite well.
 
Ditto the butter knife for me. Just did our Mountaineer with Nattys Blue. Just scraped a thin slice about the size of a nickel, which worked well for each panel (door, half hood, etc.).
 
With pastes like NXT, VWs, etc., which can be popped out, I just turn the jar upside down and "butter" my pad. With old style lipped tins like Collinite 885, FK1 1000P, etc., I squeeze the pad together until it fits into the jar then I twist it once or twice then I put it on the DA and start applying.



I never understood the putty knife or pop-the-wax-out-entirely methods...
 
Bence said:
..With old style lipped tins like Collinite 885, FK1 1000P, etc., I squeeze the pad together until it fits into the jar ...I never understood the putty knife or pop-the-wax-out-entirely methods...
Click to expand...



I *do* often scrunch up the pad and use your method to do the initial priming, it's a quick way to get a uniform amount of wax on the entire surface of the pad. Then I use the plastic razor blade to add (a very small amount of) wax as needed throughout the job. But it seems like I always have to scrape off a lot of excess when I put the pad in the can :nixwiess



With the Cyclo, I just do it your way, but I do still scrape off all the excess wax.
 
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