User friendly coating

tom p. said:
DSC_2243_zpsqgjogjm9.jpg


I applied the Pinnacle product to a couple panels on my rolling test bed a few months ago - - the car has three different coatings on it. I was admiring how good it looked today even with the car being "dirty". Looks like a product with promise! Thanks, Ron !!
Click to expand...



:::: bowing :::::
 
this was claimed as an attribute of gloss coat when it came out. I still like over coating with nuba.
"Optimum Gloss-Coat is easy to maintain. Simply wash your vehicle using Optimum Car Wash or Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. If you find nothing more relaxing than hand-applying a coat of your favorite carnauba paste wax to your vehicle, rest assured that you can continue this tradition because Optimum formulated Gloss-Coat so non-abrasive waxes and sealants will adhere."
 
tropicsteve said:
this was claimed as an attribute of gloss coat when it came out. I still like over coating with nuba.
"Optimum Gloss-Coat is easy to maintain. Simply wash your vehicle using Optimum Car Wash or Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine. If you find nothing more relaxing than hand-applying a coat of your favorite carnauba paste wax to your vehicle, rest assured that you can continue this tradition because Optimum formulated Gloss-Coat so non-abrasive waxes and sealants will adhere."
Click to expand...

PBL too

But don't think BF will work as good
 
UPDATE,

Received my PA products in the little box with a black tie on it. Here is were the bad news starts...No viking spritz , coating bottles cap was cracked opened and product was on outside of bottle. Was there suppose to be packing inside of PA Box?

I really wanted to start tomorrow,but I don`t know if I have enough product it looks like a half of a bottle . I am not used to using that little of a product when applying this stuff must really spread thin.

Ray said he would take care of me ............
 
KBsToy said:
UPDATE,

Received my PA products in the little box with a black tie on it. Here is were the bad news starts...No viking spritz , coating bottles cap was cracked opened and product was on outside of bottle. Was there suppose to be packing inside of PA Box?

I really wanted to start tomorrow,but I don`t know if I have enough product it looks like a half of a bottle . I am not used to using that little of a product when applying this stuff must really spread thin.

Brian said he would take care of me :(
Click to expand...


OW

Sounds like the devil got into your box
 
I am a little late on the scene. Coating application is one of the most over hyped things in detailing. It is so easy even Jeff can do it! If you can polish your paint properly there is no reason you cannot coat it with near professional results. The products I have used all have slight variations in application but none would be considered hard. It is a slow process for me because I am hell bent on getting it right the first time and not missing any paint.

The fears I had about applying a coating to my own car back in 2012 were totally unfounded. I hired a detailer and asked that he add some extra $ so that he could show me the ropes in both polishing and coating. We ended up working together on the car and I learned more about polishing and decon that I did coating application because its that easy.

You apply a thin coat, watch it flash off and in the prescribed time in the instruction wipe the surface with a MF as lightly as you can to remove any high spots that remain. That's all there is to it. The Polish Angel Viking coat and the 22PLE had the slowest set up and therefore the stress of the wipe off before any high spots dry is all but eliminated. I have applied EXO v1 & V2, 22ple, OC 2.0, Gloss Coat, Viking Coat and I would not call any hard to apply.

Your first time go slow, watch a few pros you know do it right on YOUTUBE if you need technique. I promise you its really so easy. If you are anywhere near a member I am sure they could show you in person.

Good Luck and happy coating.
 
JSFM35X said:
I am a little late on the scene. Coating application is one of the most over hyped things in detailing. It is so easy even Jeff can do it! If you can polish your paint properly there is no reason you cannot coat it with near professional results. The products I have used all have slight variations in application but none would be considered hard. It is a slow process for me because I am hell bent on getting it right the first time and not missing any paint.

The fears I had about applying a coating to my own car back in 2012 were totally unfounded. I hired a detailer and asked that he add some extra $ so that he could show me the ropes in both polishing and coating. We ended up working together on the car and I learned more about polishing and decon that I did coating application because its that easy.

You apply a thin coat, watch it flash off and in the prescribed time in the instruction wipe the surface with a MF as lightly as you can to remove any high spots that remain. That's all there is to it. The Polish Angel Viking coat and the 22PLE had the slowest set up and therefore the stress of the wipe off before any high spots dry is all but eliminated. I have applied EXO v1 & V2, 22ple, OC 2.0, Gloss Coat, Viking Coat and I would not call any hard to apply.

Your first time go slow, watch a few pros you know do it right on YOUTUBE if you need technique. I promise you its really so easy. If you are anywhere near a member I am sure they could show you in person.

Good Luck and happy coating.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm just debating it based on having the perfect paint before hand. It's my DD bought it brand new this summer and from what I can tell it doesn't really look like there's any swirls (weekly two bucket washes since I got it)

Then about a month ago I prepped it for winter. Washed, decon, Clay, then glazed, sealed with Jetseal, then topped with the mothers synthetic wax. Used a HF DA with a CG backing plate and Hexlogic pads and was happy with the results, made the flake come out a lot.

Also concerned with all the paint chips I have on the hood and doors already from all the highway driving in my daily commute. I have a bottle of touch up from a body shop but don't wanna mess it up if I try to DIY.

Would the coating provide good protection from paint chips? I know the clear bra is probably the best for that but not sure if I want to go that route.

Was quoted 2-250 for correction (not sure if needed but quoted car unseen) and 150-200 for coating either CquartZ UK or Opti Pro I believe.
 
No coating I know of will stop stone chips. Diy touch up can be done acceptably if you get a good match (color dependent) and fill over chip and Compound down.

I would say applying a coating without polishing would lead to an unsatisfactory result. In the sun you will likely see spiderwebing at the least. I cannot believe your getting meaningful correction and opticoat pro for around 500. Should be closer to double.

If it's too good to be true it is. Make sure his business is approved installer. Good luck.
 
JSFM35X said:
No coating I know of will stop stone chips. Diy touch up can be done acceptably if you get a good match (color dependent) and fill over chip and Compound down.

I would say applying a coating without polishing would lead to an unsatisfactory result. In the sun you will likely see spiderwebing at the least. I cannot believe your getting meaningful correction and opticoat pro for around 500. Should be closer to double.

If it's too good to be true it is. Make sure his business is approved installer. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'll have to look the paint over more in the sunlight, and maybe it wasn't the pro I know for sure they do CquartZ UK and some variation of the Opti coat

And just judging by the pictures of the high end details they've done I'd trust them with my Honda lol.

I think I'm just going to stick with the Sealant/Wax combo before And after the winter, the rock chips seem to be the biggest problem now. The sealant has worked well so far.
 
Celticsfan said:
Yeah I'll have to look the paint over more in the sunlight, and maybe it wasn't the pro I know for sure they do CquartZ UK and some variation of the Opti coat

And just judging by the pictures of the high end details they've done I'd trust them with my Honda lol.

I think I'm just going to stick with the Sealant/Wax combo before And after the winter, the rock chips seem to be the biggest problem now. The sealant has worked well so far.
Click to expand...

If rock chips are your biggest concern, save your money and wrap the entire front end with clear bra.
 
Celticsfan said:
Is there anyone you'd reccomend over another brand? The car is brand new so longevity is definitely a priority.
Click to expand...

Suntek and Xpel are the industry leaders when it comes to film from what I know.... but I don't install the stuff, so best reach out to someone who is more knowledgeable.
 
Didn't want to start a new thread so i'll just post it here.

Ended up getting Cquartz, Hydro2 Lite, and Eraser on the BF deal. In the spring I'm going to coat using the following process:

Wash: CG W&G @ 1oz/Gal and foam cannon
Decon: IronX and Claybar
Polish: Either CG V36 or V38 (already have both on hand)
Pre Coating: Eraser
Coating: Cquartz

A couple questions, I bought the car new and it didn't look like it was on the lot that long for them to mess it up like I've seen in other threads, have done 2BM and now rinseless since I got it. I was planning on using the V38 with a White(?) hexlogic pad to take care of any small swirls or light scratches. As far as the rock chips, It's a DD so I'm kind of debating on waiting to get them filled for a little since it gets driven quite a bit (at 10k in 6 months) and its only going to keep happening so why not do it after the coating wears off before I reapply?

Right now I have the HF D/A which I used to apply Glossworkz Glaze, Jetseal, and Wax for winter prep. Waiting for a good deal on the GG6 and might just use a 3" BP and use the HF for the smaller areas like the A Pillars.

Any suggestions or tips?
Thanks
 
You may be surprised how inexpensive it can be to have a Pro repair your chips versus buying the Dr. Colorchip kit and doing it yourself

You may not save that much, depending on where you live

Google led the city you live in and "Dr. Colorchip"

You our should be able to text pictures and get a quote
 
allenk4 said:
You may be surprised how inexpensive it can be to have a Pro repair your chips versus buying the Dr. Colorchip kit and doing it yourself

You may not save that much, depending on where you live

Google led the city you live in and "Dr. Colorchip"

You our should be able to text pictures and get a quote
Click to expand...

What type of pro would do something like this?
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
PBL is my choice as easiest. I still have a difficult time believing the 3 year statement, but I top it with wax anyway. Just make sure you follow the instructions on how to prep the paint.
Click to expand...
Mine pblv1 is 2 years old this month. Just about all gone but still looks good just sheats very slowly so i topped with hydro2 lite for the "winter" here in central tx
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top