Useful Detailing Tips

W

WD Pro

New member
I thought I would start a thread to list any useful tips that help you detailing and that may help others (and me!).



For example, to get into the corners and down to the bottom of a windscreen (wind shield ?!) I use a mf folded over the end of a plastic cooking spatula.



Or that I save the plastic spoons from the Hagan Dazz tubs at the cinema to store in my hard waxes to use as a spreader.



Not my idea, but I read on here that somene traces a line round thier pads once theve got them on centre.



Any others ?



WD :xyxthumbs
 
As youâ€â„¢ve has so few replies, FWIW here are my tips--



Detailing Tips:

There is no `one correct way' to apply a product, most detailers have their own preferred methodology. The way detailing products are customized are what each individual finds give them their desired results



1.Add a very thin layer of Carnauba wax as a final coat to the synthetic wax and let it cross-link (bond) for 2-3 hours, then without removing the base layer, increase the density of the wax by adding more wax, allow to dry to a haze and remove. After buffing with a soft 100% cotton cloth it will produce a deep `wet-look' finish.

2.For badly stained or neglected convertible fabric tops. Leave fabric cleaner on overnight, keep damp by covering with a plastic sheet, once stains are removed rinse thoroughly and apply protection

3.Dosing your wheels before using a wheel cleaner will allow cleaning agents to be carried to remote areas that might not be reached by spraying the cleaner on a dry wheel surface.

4.This also allows it to penetrate brake dust and road grime easier. To avoid splashing paintwork uses buckets of clean water and gently rinse wheels by pouring water starting from the top of the wheel.

5.Schnell-alternate: (Klasse Wash) Wash vehicle, apply "All-in-One" to entire vehicle while its still wet using damp 100% cotton towel, re-wash, rinse, and dry vehicle.

6.Add a layer of liquid Carnauba wax to a paste Carnauba wax; allow it to cross-linking for 2-4 hours, to produce a deep `wet-look' shine.

7.Use Klasse All-In-One as a base when using a Carnauba wax (or Carnauba based synthetics) as it adds a distinctly deeper colour to black and red vehicles and provides a `wet-look' to the paint film surface.

8.Apply All-In-One with a Microfiber applicator after paint preparation (machine polish) to remove any oils or other residue before applying a sealant

9.Apply Klasse's All-In-One with a Microfiber applicator after paint preparation (machine polish) to remove any oils or other residue before applying a polymer sealant

10.Apply wax or polymer sealant to vertical surfaces roof to floor and then left to right, on horizontal surfaces bumper to trunk and then left to right, over-lapping panels to ensure complete coverage. Then apply in direction of airflow, horizontal surfaces hood to trunk, vertical surfaces front to back. This application technique affects the paints optical properties by optimising light refraction and the reflectivity of the bodylines and contours of the vehicle.

11.Always apply detailing products in a straight-line motion, in one direction only. Avoid circular motions as they cause swirl marks.

12.By applying two thin coats of product it will provide maximum density of your protective layer and uniform coverage providing a uniform gloss, clarity and reflectivity.

13.If there are any places were there is a thick build-up of wax or sealant, simply lightly mist the affected surface with distilled water

14.After washing and thoroughly rinsing, spray the area you are about to dry with a quick detailing spray (QD) with a 100% cotton cloth, then dry the area with a waffle weave Microfiber towel, to provide a `just waxed' appearance.

15.To keep water out of your side mirrors during washing, cover them with a Saran wrap elastic top plastic cover

16.Use a rolling tape type lint brush, designed to remove lint from clothing, on your roadster or convertible fabric top. Daily use will remove any lint or light dust and reduce cleaning time requirements drastically. Be careful around rear widow area to avoid scratches.

17.To create a gentle cleaner wax, mix a 4:1 solution of Liquid wax and Fine Hand Polish and apply to surface with a 100% cotton cloth, ideal for gold or chrome plated fittings

18.To avoid friction of the vinyl rear window material of a roaster or convertible, place a 100% cotton cloth, front and back, before putting the top down. Do not use terry cloth towelling, as this is abrasive and will cause scratches.

19.Always apply detailing products to applicator not the vehicles surface, this will use less product and you'll obtain a more satisfactory result.



JonM
 
Wow, thanks for the long reply !



6. Like #26 paste and then liquid ?



14. Will try. I would never have thought of this as I would have guessed it would caused smearing. Does it mean you wash your WW after every dry or does it not affect its absorbency ?



15. This is a pain in the a**e, I normally end up drying, driving down the street and then drying again. The water that comes out of the mirrors always seems to be dirty and leave stains no matter how much fresh water they are rinsed with â€Â¦



WD :xyxthumbs
 
I keep a can of compressed air in my detailing kit. It works great for blowing out water from under badges, in cracks/seams or from behind the mirrors. This is especially good if you don't have an air hose or leaf blower.
 
If you take off your wheels to clean the backsides or to swap rims/tires, clean your CV boots and apply a protectant to them like 1Z Tiefenfleger. Then you won't have to worry about having a boot crack on you and require replacement of the boot (and maybe the CV joint).
 
Before you start, make sure you have two clean of whatever you are using. Two drying towels, two yellow pads, two applicators-whatever. If it touches your paint, make sure you have two. The chances of dropping something and contaminating it are great, and having a backup allows you to keep working without delay or compromising and using a dropped item.
 
I was just putting into practice the following so I thought Iâ€â„¢d revive this thread.



While my tip isnâ€â„¢t entirely original, I think itâ€â„¢s worth sharing again. Use smaller plastic bottles to dispense detailing supplies. I really like this for car wash solutions. It always seems messy to try and measure out âہ“capfulsâ€Â�, especially if they are in a large container.



For example, I use 1 ½ gallons of water when I QEW so I need 1 ½ ounces (3 capfuls) per bucket. I have some 3 ounce plastic bottles I bought at Wal-Mart (in the toiletries/travel section), which I put a mark on at the 1 ½ ounce point, so it holds enough for two washes. It makes it much easier to put in the bucket, Iâ€â„¢m sure of the amount Iâ€â„¢m using, it creates less waste, and itâ€â„¢s easy to refill.



For washes where I use 1 ounce I use small 2 ounce bottles with a mark at the 1 ounce level.



Small 2 and 4 ounce bottles also work well with almost any liquid wax/sealer/polish unless theyâ€â„¢re very thick, and even then you can use them by removing the top if theyâ€â„¢re too thick to come out of the small spout. Makes them easy to carry, put in a pocket or apron while detailing, takes up much less room if going to a car show, itâ€â„¢s an easy way to share or swap samples, and if you accidentally drop one itâ€â„¢s less likely to break than a large bottle.



I also have some small 2-ounce spray bottles, which are nice for spraying my pad or applicator with Klasse SG (for example).



Here are a couple of sources for small spray and spout top bottles. I have some from Detailers Paradise but havenâ€â„¢t tried the second source yet. As mentioned earlier I picked some 3 ounce bottles up at Wal-Mart and have also seen some at craft stores.



http://www.detailersparadise.com/_S...roductList.asp?Action=Search&SearchFor=bottle



http://www.specialtybottle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=212



BTW, does anyone use Vanilla Moose in a spray bottle? I haven't tried it that way yet but it seems thin enough to be a good candidate for that method.
 
I second the idea of using small 2 or 3 oz bottles, as mentioned, it's a lot easier to dispense products. I got all mine from a local craft store (the g/f was wondering why I agreed to go :D )
 
Question for TOGWT's #6 - do you buff the first layer of carnauba off first, or let it haze and then add the liquid wax and leave for a couple of hours ?



Not really a tip I guess, however a good purchase for those in the UK would be from B&Q, they sell a plastic 4 drawer set at £13.00, on wheels. Superb for holding all of your detailing equipment, and if you wheel it outside, makes a good bench to hold your polishing stuff too.
 
When using products of a thin consistency put them into a spray bottle or fit the spray attachment to the product bottle, you will use way less product and apply in a thin and consistent manner.



Washing - I use a pump action sprayer with 1oz of car shampoo and water to pre-soak the lower panels and rims.





PK
 
Here is a good tip i read on this board a while ago. Using a paint brush to apply tire dressing. Put a few squirts in an old coffee mug then brush the stuff on. It sure is a pain in the a$$ when the tire dressing gets on the rim/wheel.
 
Question for TOGWT's #6 - do you buff the first layer of carnauba off first, or let it haze and then add the liquid wax and leave for a couple of hours?



Let it haze and then add the liquid wax ( apply with very light pressure or the solvents in the liquid will remove the wax) and then leave for about an hour.



Solvents provide a lubricant and aid the adherence process by working their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the previous `layer' softening it, providing each subsequent applications carrying agent (solvent, oils silicones or emulsion) are not so concentrated that they degrade or remove (as in the case of a cleaner wax) what has been previously applied.



Also be aware that the both the product and the foam pad may be non-abrasive, but application pressure if not kept to an absolute minimum and using use a very light and even pressure, may re-introduce surface marring and/or removal of the previously applied product.
 
TOGWT said:
1.Add a very thin layer of Carnauba wax as a final coat to the synthetic wax and let it cross-link (bond) for 2-3 hours, then without removing the base layer, increase the density of the wax by adding more wax, allow to dry to a haze and remove.
Click to expand...



I have the same basic question as Axe, but this time pertaining to tip no. 1. Do I not buff off the thin layer of carnauba before I add more wax? Or should I buff it off before the second waxing?
 
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