Underhood Pad.....

I too got the WB and kleanride. I just got in from washing the ride and I've found that the more I use it the better I get with it. I guess it just like everything else. I've gotten it down now where I have it folded just the way I like it and use it at certain angles that work best. Not trying to make it sound like its a science using the WB but certain techniques seem to work better than others.
 
I use a CWB on the flat surfaces (hood, roof, windows) to remove the majority of the water. Personally I like to rinse the entire vehicle just prior to drying. By using this method I have never had a scratch caused by the CWB. Having said this I will also mention that I would never use it, or any drying towel, to remove water from a vehicle that has not been washed and rinsed. I say this because I have heard of people using the CWB to remove water after a brief downpour, even though the car might not have been washed within a week. I personnaly think this is just asking for trouble.



For the final drying I use the P21S Towel, but have been tempted by many posts to try the Water Bandit.



I should mention that I am most concerned with scratches when washing the car.
 
Wow, removing water after a rain with the CWB! That's adventurous.



YoSteve -- re "blotting the car dry" LOL. Maybe you could add it to the products you offer . . . like a 10' x 18' blue paper blotter, just drape it over the car. No rubbing of the paint. Of course, it would probably cost about $50, and would only be used one time, but what the heck, are we committed or not? ;)
 
lol, good idea :) same exact towel, twice as much cost, you blot, and it's disposable, no wait...you recycle it by sending it back to me, and buy another; guaranteed no scratches (how many other products have that disclaimer) :D
 
I have used the water blade for about 3 years and I can say no bad about it. As long as you take care of it then it won't damage any vehicle you use it on. On really curvy vehicles I just get as much water off as I can with the water blade then I use an absorber to get the rest off. The water blade and the absorber is the best drying combo you can get. I have used it on just about every type of car that exists and I haven't ever had a complaint or problem with it. Get one.
 
i can get mf material (not the mt super plush kind) in any size (even in rolls). imagine draping a huge car cover size towel and just letting it soak it all up
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by YoSteve.Com [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>i can get mf material (not the mt super plush kind) in any size (even in rolls). imagine draping a huge car cover size towel and just letting it soak it all up [/b]</blockquote>
Yup. And then try imagining wringing it out without letting it touch the ground. :)
 
LOL -- Good point, Jngrbrdman

Let's see. Obviously, to avoid having the MF whole-car-blotter touch the ground, we need to design and construct, and have placed in our backyards, a suitable "MF drying cloth gantry" for lowering the MF on to the car and lifting it off after blotting. See pic at http://www.usamach.com/gantry%20cranes.htm for suggested beginner's model gantry crane.

After lifting the MF blotter off, the gantry would trundle the MF blotter over to the industrial-sized washer we have installed, because although the car was just washed and the blotter, ostensibly, picked up clean rinse water, only, we can take no chance and must wash the MF blotter after each use.

I would guess such a system would not cost more than $1,500,000 to $3,000,000 and that is with installation (but does not cover the industrial washer, and, oh, and the necessary dryer). YoSteve, I think you should immediately offer this most needed product on your site.

[Edited by darbh on 08-13-2001 at 09:55 PM]
 
I guess I'll just hang strips of the stuff from my garage door and drive in and back out of the garage until it dries. That way it won't touch the ground.
 
Many customers have asked me to clean the pad under their hoods. Many have tried with little or no success.

My method is unconventional to say the least...

First let me tell you the methods that DIDN'T work:

APC scrub
Soap & Water wash
Dry brush
Upholstery cleaner
Carpet cleaner
Just about everything else on my shelf

Here's what does work... and it stays looking like this for months:

Armor All Tire Foam!

The first picture is typical of underhood pads... white mineral deposits, soap scum, dirt, mud, etc.

IMG_3366.jpg


In this picture, I didn't even TOUCH the pad. I simply saturated it with Armor All Tire Foam and let it dry. Not perfect, but clearly much better.

hoodpad.jpg


On every other product I used, the white crusties came back within a few days... The Tire Foam keeps it looking like this for months.

As far as flamibility, I sprayed some Tire Foam on the driveway and threw a match in it. The TF put the match out.

I've had hood pads that were much worse than this one, and I've scrubbed the Tire Foam into the white deposits. Worked even better.

I've been using this method for almost 10 years.
 
You got me Bill,

I once spent thirty minutes on a detail cleaning one of those with APC, soap and water and a tire brush. And I swear it looked the same afterwards. I honestly never thought of dressing it either. I cant believe I never thought of it until reading this. I actually have a lot of Tire foam too after buying those Meguiars kits at Target.

Thanks Bill :thumbup:
 
Here's another one a little out of the box...just remove it. Over time it gets brittle and nasty looking it looks better off.

I've heard it's used as a sound dampener and acts as a fire retardant (in the event of an engine fire). Anybody else know?
 
Here's another one a little out of the box...just remove it. Over time it gets brittle and nasty looking it looks better off.

I've heard it's used as a sound dampener and acts as a fire retardant (in the event of an engine fire). Anybody else know?

Also works as a heat sheild to insulate the hood. You'll end up with paint/clear failure sooner or later without one.
 
Back
Top