Um, oops. I made my leather seats worse.

[Speedwagon]

Didn't realize this was possible, but...



I washed my car yesterday. I used a waffleweave to dry it, then proceeded to leave the towel on the driver's seat a bit wet overnight. I have leather seats, in mediocre condition in my car(a '98 Subaru Legacy, seats are from a late 90's Outback). The result of leaving the towel on the seat, is that there are a few cracks in the leather now. The leather was a bit on the stiff side beforehand.



What happened? And how do I fix it?



edit: A bit more background on the seats. My 98 Legacy came with cloth seats. While walking through the junkyard about a year ago, I came across a late 90s Outback, that had all the seats in in it still(heated fronts too). So I snagged them, but they weren't in the best shape. Not bad, but not great. The non-sitting surfaces of the seats are nice and soft, but all the sitting surfaces are stiff, almost alligatory. The car wasn't in the junkyard long before I got to it, but who knows where the car was before then. I've been using Meguiar's leather cleaner/conditioner on them since I got it.

 

[2005GTPinMD]

I am waiting for more knowledge posters to chime in - the leather seems pretty gone. I wonder if leatherique would help a bit.

 

[Ron Ketcham]

Pretty much toast.

Grumpy

 

[David Fermani]

Needs to be refinished unless The Leather Dr. has a remedy. I'll PM him for his input.

 

[togwt]

You maybe able to re-finish, try what have you got to use. (the other Dr





“Leather Pigmentation (Colour) Renovation” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...ather-restoration-renovation.html#post1479003

 

[Speedwagon]

Thanks guys.



As far as pigmentation, I don't really care too much about that. I just want the leather to be soft again, without cracking.

 

[Roger Koh]

Thanks guys.



As far as pigmentation, I don't really care too much about that. I just want the leather to be soft again, without cracking.

Leather rejuvenating technique . . . your leather will be as "soft and strong" as you wish - if you follow this technique.





#1 Fatliquor is replenished after hyydrating to relax it.

#2 A paper rag/towel is used as a reservoir to contain the fatliquor and is covered with a plastic cling wrapper to control evaporation - this technique ensure the fatliquor gets into the leather structure.

Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com

 

[rdorman]

Experts have already chimed in. I would say that even after following the advise the color will need to be redone. At the risk of being rude, judging by the condition of the rest of the interior you have your work cut out for you.

 

[Speedwagon]

Thanks for the responses.



Yes, I do have my work cut out for me, both inside and out. Since I've been using my bicycle to get around lately(the past year and a half, when I moved into Denver proper), my car has been getting heavily neglected. When I don't drive it, I don't think about all the things I need to do. But it's getting pretty obvious as of late, that it needs attention. Not looking for a show stopper, but I've owned the car since January 2003, and I intend to keep it going for quite some time.

 

[Roger Koh]

Didn't realize this was possible, but...



I washed my car yesterday. I used a waffleweave to dry it, then proceeded to leave the towel on the driver's seat a bit wet overnight. I have leather seats, in mediocre condition in my car(a '98 Subaru Legacy, seats are from a late 90's Outback). The result of leaving the towel on the seat, is that there are a few cracks in the leather now. The leather was a bit on the stiff side beforehand.



What happened? And how do I fix it?



edit: A bit more background on the seats. My 98 Legacy came with cloth seats. While walking through the junkyard about a year ago, I came across a late 90s Outback, that had all the seats in in it still(heated fronts too). So I snagged them, but they weren't in the best shape. Not bad, but not great. The non-sitting surfaces of the seats are nice and soft, but all the sitting surfaces are stiff, almost alligatory. The car wasn't in the junkyard long before I got to it, but who knows where the car was before then. I've been using Meguiar's leather cleaner/conditioner on them since I got it.

The problem:



Hydrating with water, damages leather, it is no difference from water-damaged leather; often result in stiffness and some cases shrinkage “there are a few cracks in the leather now”.



Each time when the leather is wet and dry again, its fibers becomes stick closer together “all the sitting surfaces are stiff, almost alligatory”.



When these stiff leathers are further flex, it will crack because the leather is void of the fatliquor that lubricates it.





The solution:



The stiff stick together fibers need to be hydrated with leather specific hydrator that has leather-safe surfactantcy, which will be able to separate the stick together fibers and relax them.



Leather safe hydrator has a pH range from 3 to 4, having the same pH range as the leather itself of 3 to 5; unlike water usually is pH around 7 that weakens the ionic hydrogen bond between the leather protein fiber and the fatliquor (fat, oil and water). The weakening of the hydrogen bond leads to the leaching out of the fatliquor, essential for leather suppleness and strength.



After effective leather-safe hydrating, the original fatliquor is replenished. Fatliquor is negative (-ve) ionic charged that will hydrogen bond with the positive (+ve) charge of the leather protein fiber with the help of the acidic hydrator.





Does fatliquor replenishing have a part to play on modern pigmented leather – the answer is yes! – when the leather structure becomes exposed due to wear, other than needle and perforated holes.





Roger Koh

info@leatherdoctor.com