Ultrafina or 106FF

SVR said:
For more gloss. My jobs not done when the marks are all gone, got to lift the gloss much higher than just doing 2 to 3 steps with menz
Click to expand...



Ultrafina (after Meg's #105 and Optimum Compound) prior to waxing...



2002_Ford_Saleen_frontend2.jpg
 
Not bad at all.

Have you been using the Ultrafina foam pad or just use your normal pads?
 
SVR said:
Have you been using the Ultrafina foam pad or just use your normal pads?
Click to expand...



I'll throw this in.....



A 3M black waffle finishing pad and Ultrafina is a very good combo.....My go to finish was 85RD with a black waffle and a rotary but, UF and that combo is just as nice....



I haven't bought any blue UF pads yet because the black ones are really soft and I still have quite a few new ones left. I'll pick up a blue one this summer and try it out but, the cut shouldn't be that much different with both polishes being this fine.......JMO.....
 
I use the blue Ultrafina pad. If I am using UF as a single polishing step, I use the blue Swirlbuster pad. Removes light defects and leaves a really good finish.
 
Cheers thanks alot

I'll grab the polish and pad next week and give my thoughts on it

How much product do I apply per 2x2 area?

3 to 6 inch stripe perhaps
 
SVR said:
Cheers thanks alot

I'll grab the polish and pad next week and give my thoughts on it

How much product do I apply per 2x2 area?

3 to 6 inch stripe perhaps
Click to expand...



That question was answered for me rather quickly... I kept reducing the amount I was using until I was no longer coating everything in a 360 radius around me with polish. This stuff is thin like water going on, and even thinner and wetter when it's done. It goes on so thin that you think you don't even have enough to adequately lube your pad, and then it ends up slinging everywhere... from what I've heard, if you're not slinging it the first few times you use it, you're not using enough. ;)
 
Well the day has arrived, I took home some Ultrafina today and got to work with it on my own car



After doing the polishing prep and 1 step with 106 to remove some cat like scratches, the UF came out

Boy is this gear watery, got some sling in my first two tries



Anyway I think I've got it down pat

I applied at 1400 and worked the first time for 4 passes and then stopped

Wiped off and looked great, however after doing a wipedown with 100% alcohol, some very fine holograms were revealed



Went over the area with some more UF for 4 quick passes at 1000 rpm and did same procedure

This time nothing.



Then moved to back of rear quarter and spent 30 to 40 seconds at 1400 and finished off with one horizontal top to bottom pass at 900 rpm



Got a perfect result after IPA

Does it give any better look to 106 or other polish - not really, on a black car maybe 1% better

Advantages over 106 - much faster to use, can do correction including 106 then UF and not have to break it down for 2 to 4 mins

Disadvantages - gotta do IPA wipedown on every worked area cause it fills very lightly
 
You have to work the UF @ high rpm, around 1800 rpm, there is a video from 3M where they explain how to work the product.
 
maesal said:
You have to work the UF @ high rpm, around 1800 rpm, there is a video from 3M where they explain how to work the product.
Click to expand...



Agreed. 1000 to spread, 1800 to work in, moderate pressure to lightly compress the pad, 1000 to finish out. So far, it has worked perfectly every time. :dance
 
What's are you guys paying for your UF. I get it locally for $32 per quart and the UF pad was $15 is that average, good, bad?
 
integritydetail said:
What's are you guys paying for your UF. I get it locally for $32 per quart and the UF pad was $15 is that average, good, bad?
Click to expand...



UF at the only place I could find it was 50 a quart locally.
 
Why do a IPA wipedown????? Can' t you just go to your lsp??? With PO85RD I go staight to LSP.





SVR said:
Well the day has arrived, I took home some Ultrafina today and got to work with it on my own car



After doing the polishing prep and 1 step with 106 to remove some cat like scratches, the UF came out

Boy is this gear watery, got some sling in my first two tries



Anyway I think I've got it down pat

I applied at 1400 and worked the first time for 4 passes and then stopped

Wiped off and looked great, however after doing a wipedown with 100% alcohol, some very fine holograms were revealed



Went over the area with some more UF for 4 quick passes at 1000 rpm and did same procedure

This time nothing.



Then moved to back of rear quarter and spent 30 to 40 seconds at 1400 and finished off with one horizontal top to bottom pass at 900 rpm



Got a perfect result after IPA

Does it give any better look to 106 or other polish - not really, on a black car maybe 1% better

Advantages over 106 - much faster to use, can do correction including 106 then UF and not have to break it down for 2 to 4 mins

Disadvantages - gotta do IPA wipedown on every worked area cause it fills very lightly
Click to expand...
 
MDRX8 said:
Why do a IPA wipedown????? Can' t you just go to your lsp??? With PO85RD I go staight to LSP.
Click to expand...



PO85RD and PO106FF both leave oils behind after you wipe them down. They really don't help any with your LSP's durability, either. They will also conceal/hide defects that are still there. In order to make sure you've gotten the defects out (and to make sure your LSP bonds correctly), it's necessary to do an IPA wipe after using either of those Menz polishes.
 
But isn't that part of "polishing" your car? Would those oils take away the looks of a high quality wax?



SuperBee364 said:
PO85RD and PO106FF both leave oils behind after you wipe them down. They really don't help any with your LSP's durability, either. They will also conceal/hide defects that are still there. In order to make sure you've gotten the defects out (and to make sure your LSP bonds correctly), it's necessary to do an IPA wipe after using either of those Menz polishes.
Click to expand...
 
MDRX8 said:
But isn't that part of "polishing" your car? Would those oils take away the looks of a high quality wax?
Click to expand...



No, not really. The oils that are left behind are just the lubricants for the abrasives. They aren't meant to be any sort of glaze or gloss enhancement. And they really do negatively effect your LSP's ability to bond correctly. Unfortunately, they also conceal defects. Regardless of the final polish I use, I always do an IPA wipedown before my LSP process. It is cheap insurance to make sure that I've gotten all the defects out, any residual oils and/or abrasives from the polish, and that I'll get maximum looks and bonding from the Glaze/Wax/Sealant.



When 106 or 85rd are correctly broken down, they leave a very glossy oily residue behind. I use that residue as a gauge to how well the vehicle is polished. If it still looks as glossy once I've used IPA to remove the oils as it did when the oils were still there, I know I've hit max gloss. If the finish is dulled down at all by removing the oils, I know there's still more benefit to additional polishing.
 
Very well said SuperBee! You are correct.



The oils left behind will decrease bonding issues and will hide defects if they are not removed properly and the finish is inspected properly.



Correction and proper prep isn't 100% unless it is IPA'd/Prepsol and heavily inspected under different lighting. Menzerna oils are very hard to get off and require straight alcohol or prepsol.



I use straight IPA after every step while correcting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top