Uh oh what did I do??

I

imported_blas

New member
Hello,

The floor in our garage was repainted before we moved in. It looks like there's a layer or two of paint under the current layer. The paint on my side seems to be holding up fine, but on my girlfriend's side of the garage, we're getting some peeling. It seems that her a/c condensor drips on the only spot on the whole floor that collects water! So, there's a spot where the paint is comming off the floor. Does anyone here know of a good paint I can put down over that area to prevent this? Also, what type of surface prep should I do to that area?



Thanks,

Glenn
 
You will need to get a bottle of muratic acid (hardware store) and "etch" and clean the area. Then use a quality concrete paint that is impervious to chemicals. Good products are available at local pro paint stores like Sherwin Williams, etc. Ask their advice.



These paints are not as durable as some professional eurethenes or epoxy paints but they will do the job for your patch.
 
Brad,

Thanks! Looks like I'll head to Home Depot at some point this weekend. Geez, not like we're there twice a week anyway! At some point, I'm going to redo the whole floor, but with the addition of "non skid" sand. How much of a job is it to strip the whole floor? If 99% of the paint is holding up nicely, could I just paint over it?



Glenn
 
Geez Brad! Ever think of changing your sig from "the stable" to "The museum holds:". That is one sharp garage floor! Hell, you're whole garage looks great!



Anyway, I figured the stripping of the old paint would be a total PITA. I think when the time comes, I'll just paint over what's there. Or maybe I'll just get some black and white tiles...hmmmmmm.



Glenn
 
Why are you going with the non-skid sand finish? I saw Brad's new floor yesterday and it not only looked great but we actualy did a skid test. Brad threw some water down and I thought it was actually better wet than dry. The initial impression is that it was slipery, but once you got all your weight on that foot, it's really stuck. This test was done with tennis shoes though, so if you or your girlfriend are in to high heels, the results may vary.:eeks



If I can ever get the guy to call me back, my floor will soon look just like Brad's. Now if I can just find the cash to buy the cars too!
 
Well, my parents have it in their garage and I liked the way it "worked". Our floor gets rather slipper when it gets wet. Plus, there's really no way our floor will ever look like Brad's or yours! Ours is a nice industrial gray, semi gloss surface. The way Brad's floor shines, he probably has to keep the underside of his car clean too!



Glenn
 
About 6 years ago I decided to get aggressive with the Black paint on my 1998 Ford Explorer. I would say the paint is of medium hardness.

I did not have a heck of a lot of experience with buffers but used a Sears orbital with an 8.5" 3M Wool Compounding pad :banghead: and Meguires Medium cut.

Well you can see the results, took a long time to get the haze off since I did not have a real buffing tool.

Question is what the hell did I do and can I fix this somehow? I am very experienced now with my Makita Rotary. Although I am not sure this can be buffed out. Paint has great gloss to it despite the white chicken scratches all over.

Thinking maybe M105 and a Yellow foam pad at 1800rpm, is this possible or is the paint to far gone. Boo Hoo
 
wish the pics were bigger... i'm no pro by any stretch but if that combo doesn't do it the next step is twisted wool. if no luck there then its wet sanding... good luck. let us know what works
 
Sorry,. don't know why they came out so small.

I'll try another post...

Nope not working, keeps shrinking the pictures way down.

Anyone know how to post a bigger pic?

Recently read a thread on wet sanding and was thinking about using Meg's 2000 grit followed by a cross hatch with 3000 grit and a buff out with Menz Power compound or Intensive polish and then Nano.

Vehicle has never been polished with deep cut polishes, except for the wool pad and Medium cut cleaner. So it should have plenty of clear coat left on it to try this method.

I will try and get some better pictures.
 
Upload your pics to a web host like Google Picasa, Imageshack, or Photobucket. Then post the links here.

I'm a little confused. First you talk about a Sears buffer, wool pad, and Megs #4, then you mention how experienced you are with a Makita, M105, and a yellow pad.

Tell us exactly what the LAST process you used on the Explorer - machine, pad, and polish. What you did 6 years ago no longer matters so no need to discuss that.

What have you done to the Explorer in the 6 years since you used the Sears buffer?
 
Just a basic Clay & buff out every spring with either a Porter Cable Ultimate detailing machine, white 6.5" lake country pad with Menzerna Intensive polish, followed by Final Polish. This year I used my new Flex and an orange pad with PO106FF.

Sometimes I use my Rotary with a white Lake Country pad and PO106FF. Depends on what mood I am in that particular day, but the pad is usually always white because the paint is in good condition and I stick with a fine cut polish.

I also like to add Danaze wet glaze after buffing. That is followed by many coats of Black fire paint protectant and topped with some type of Carnuba.

Paint looks excellent, better than new vehicles but up close or in bright sun light you can see the tiny white scratches.

A lot has changed since 2002 and I do professional detail jobs these days to high praise, i am a fanatic when it comes to detail :out: usually takes me about 8hrs non stop for the full deal Exterior.

With help from boards like this, years experience and advice from manufacturers & retailers it does not take that long to learn.

When I used the wool pad I was just screwing around but was hoping for great results, in retrospect and as soon as I finished buffing the black paint out that day I knew it was a really bad idea.

Really interested in wet sanding it now though.

The truck is 12 years old and not worth much anymore, it will be replaced soon so I am not worried about further damaging the paint that much.

Thanks for the advice on the photo sharing :biggrin:
 
This looks like the 12 year old clearcoat is checking, and eventally will come off in pieces.

I just did a couple of old Honda's that had this only on the hood really bad and one had a little on the forward first few inches of the top.

I used a Makita like yours to get the rest of the paint scratches/swirls, etc., out, minding the checking so that I didnt make it hot and cause it to start coming off sooner, and put couple coats of BFWD on it.

Both of these old dogs looked way better for the work, and the owners were estatic, even with the clearcoat checking on the hoods.

If this is really 12 year old paint, you probably didnt do anything to cause it, it is the nature of that old paint dying off on you.

Not much you can do that will turn it around; other than a sand down, prime, block with a guide coat, and respray it.

You might try to google or bing around to see if 1998 ford paint had problems with this, I know that back in 1986 Chevrolet had alot of problems with their newly painted trucks paint drying off and breaking off in pieces - from the factory..

DanF
 
yep, I was afraid of that. Just hoping it could maybe be buffed but it seems to be unfixable.

Time to trade her in....

Thanks
 
Lazzman,

So sorry for bringing you not so good news. I saw this all the time in the Bodyshop I worked in back in the day. You still can buff out the paint and get the overall look reallly good, as you already do, but if you put a magnifier on any of those little checks, you will see the clearcoat starting to lift off the primer in most cases.
Think the big-3 went through a few years of just applying it badly or used inferior thinners/reducers to spray their products. Believe Ford used acrylic enamel back then still; not positive.. You might find a group of people with similar paint that have gone back and sued the company or something, who knows?
Good luck, your next vehicle if its another newer Ford, will have outstanding paint that lends itself well to the kind of work you do and expect to see.

DanF
 
Damn this kinda sucks.

You guys know what it is like to be a detailer and have your own vehicle not looking supreme.

Thanks for the heads up.
 
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