UDM or Cyclo?

C

cjbigcog

New member
I want to upgrade from my PC. Looks like a lot of happy UDM users here, but the Cyclo is mentioned too. The UDM would be similiar to the PC. Is the Cyclo much different to use?

Pros and cons of the Cyclo vs UDM would be appreciated.
 
Step up to rotary. You already have a PC, so finishing is much easier. Alot of pros on here use the rotary to correct then step down to PC to finish.



I said that and i know some finish with rotary, me included, but i usually don't check my work if i finish with PC.
 
The Cyclo is a superb machine. I have owned and used pneumatic DA's, the PC, and a Cyclo for a long time. The Cyclo is my favorite of that style machine.



Why? I like the feel of the machine in my hand, even when it's not powered on yet. It runs much smoother than the PC and my pneumatics. Obviously, it has the advantage of being electric instead of air powered over the pneumatics. The tool feels much more stable than the PC when running and first time users as well as veterans all tell me they get no hand tingling when using a Cyclo.



The Cyclo gets the work done a bit faster, too. I like the versatility of the 4" pads on the Cyclo.



However, if you want to do more correction faster, the rotary is the way to go.



As good as my Cyclo is, it is used for finish polish and to be sure any rotary marks are completely gone. I do not do any cutting or heavy polishing with the Cyclo, though some make a living by using just that machine.



My Porter Cable rarely gets used. If I do use it, it's for wax/sealant application. I have used it as a sander, in which case it does very well.
 
It's all about how much you want to spend. If you get a rotary, the PC pads will work, although you'll want to buy the Edge system and get some of their fine wool pads. I'd love to have Cyclo too, to go along with the PC and Makita, cause sometimes I'd like to have something different. But, the price and the having to buy two pads of each type kinda stops me.
 
JuneBug said:
It's all about how much you want to spend.
Click to expand...



Not when comparing a rotary to a DA-style machine





JuneBug said:
But, the price and the having to buy two pads of each type kinda stops me.
Click to expand...



4" pads generally cost less than their 6" counterparts
 
Not when comparing a rotary to a DA-style machine - huh? PC is $129, Makita is $199



4" pads generally cost less than their 6" counterparts - yeah, but you have to buy (2) 4"
 
JuneBug said:
Not when comparing a rotary to a DA-style machine - huh? PC is $129, Makita is $199
Click to expand...



My point was that the action of the machine and the speed with which you can do correction is totally different between the two.



There is more than a price difference: they are different machines with different capabilities.
 
Well I think there's been one or two helpful posts here.. C'mon guys:) The Cyclo costs around $265, so it's about twice the price of the UDM. I don't have any personal experience with either of the machines correction wise, but I believe that's what the original poster wanted to know.
 
If cost is a factor, then go with the UDM. I only paid a little over $200 for my Cyclo brand new though. Both machines have similar correction ability and I tend to use the UDM more simply because on most vehicles, it is more maneuverable. It also seems to leave a somewhat better finish when using cutting pads and a compound. Where the Cyclo really has an advantage is on larger vehicles because it covers more territory. In addition, it is also noticably smoother and will keep spinning at pressures that even bog the UDM enough that it stops spinning (although the UDM will spin at far greater pressure than a PC).



Honestly, I am glad I have both machines but if I had to chose only one, I'd give a small edge to the UDM for the typical user and the Cyclo for the professional because the Cyclo has a 50+ year track record of excellent durability.
 
Man, even though I tell myself, I do not "need" a cyclo and I don't, the fact is - I want one. Why, well, maybe Scott and set me straight on this. I detail some dogs that the SPCA would turn away, old and crappy stuff that my used car dealer friend sends to me for detailing so someone might buy them. They have clear coats of very questionable thickness and lately, after using my makita on one, I got kinda nervous that the paint was thinner than OJ's latest alibi! I stopped and switched to my PC with a orange LC pad and went straight for the poliseal, damn if it didn't come out rather decent even with a few minor random scratches. Customer was happy and that's all that matters. So, my point is, IF I had a Cyclo, I could have finished faster and probably better than the PC and still had that safety that a rotary ain't known for. Scott??
 
JuneBug you have some good one liners in there. LOL



I will say it again. If you are into polishing for the long haul, step up to a rotary. Correction is faster and easier and you have a PC for final polish.
 
JuneBug said:
... IF I had a Cyclo, I could have finished faster and probably better than the PC and still had that safety that a rotary ain't known for.
Click to expand...

I do not know whether Scott can help you with answer on that one as it is my understanding he doesn't use rotary but from my experience your statement is correct. However, I am absolute klutz with rotary (at the time of posting) so my word means nothing. SpoiledMan would be way much better to answer this question as he is expert with rotary and does have Cyclo experience.
 
Mr. Z, thanks for the reply, I like my rotary, and for corrections on paint where I know the owner and know if it's ever been buffed, I feel comfortable using it. I guess my biggest hang-up is trying to switch from "autopian" standard to "used car acceptable" standard. I try to make them look the best they can be, but I don't want to do more harm than good. So, SpoiledMan - could you please comment, Thanks!
 
FWIW, I have PCs, rotaries (Makita and Metabo), and Cyclos. When you need a rotary (if only for timely results) you need a rotary, simple as that. But I enjoy using my Cyclos more than the other machines and I reach for them if they'll do the job.



Equipped with 4" pads, I can do the same degree of correction via PC that I can via Cyclo, but IMO that doesn't tell the whole story as user-friendliness can count for a lot. I've damaged clear with the PC/4" combo that never caused problems via Cyclo, so it (PC/4") could well be *more* aggressive.



Oh, and the Cyclo build-quality is truly superb; it's in another league compared with the PC.
 
Accumulator said:
Equipped with 4" pads, I can do the same degree of correction via PC that I can via Cyclo, but IMO that doesn't tell the whole story as user-friendliness can count for a lot. I've damaged clear with the PC/4" combo that never caused problems via Cyclo, so it (PC/4") could well be *more* aggressive.
Click to expand...

For some reason my experience is different. Cyclo was for me correcting with ease scratches I was not able to even touch with PC and 4" pad (at least not in reasonable amount of time before I gave up). Maybe because I was able to lean onto Cyclo without bogging it down much more than I am able onto PC before it starts bogging down. Not to mention I would not dare do whole hammered car with PC and 4" pads and all cars that I am dealing with are hammered. There is no way I am selling my Cyclo unless I find I can achieve same kind of work equally fast with Flex.



Also, I have found Cyclo allowed me, as someone that is not experienced with rotary, to safely address things I would otherwise need rotary for. With rotary temperature was skyrocketing without me making any progress so I had to cancel. With Cyclo I took it out and temperature was not as high as fast. Yes, that is due to me not knowing rotary. But it allowed me to complete task without burning paint.
 
Big Z, switch to wool, keep the rpm's under 1500 and you're rotary man. But, I know how you feel, cause even doing all that, and the temp was NOT hot, just warm, I couldn't shake that feeling of impending doom on that dog I was buffing. Got two things to add, just for deminstration only - check out AutoMagic's website, follow the link to the cyclo vid where they have the copmpound,polish and wax all done by cyclo. Now before anybody says pork shoulder, I have never tried AM, or a cyclo, I just thought it was cool if you're like me and never seen one in action.



Hey Accc - what pad system do you like on your cyclos? I know you probably have 2 of each! Scott? do you use Edge?
 
JuneBug said:
Big Z, switch to wool, keep the rpm's under 1500 and you're rotary man.
Click to expand...

I know. But what I was trying to illustrate is that "apples" to "apples" (or in this case foam pads on both) I was feeling Cyclo is getting me there safer. Plus I did try wool for a bit before giving up and saying "Cyclo all the way". Because I was creating halograms with wool. And then would have to correct them with Cyclo. Then I could do whole job with just Cyclo. Yes, one day I will master all of that. But in the meantime Cyclo did job for this klutz and did it fast and safe and with no halograms. Not to mention the "cool factor" of Cyclo ;) When I pull out Cyclo everybody turns head "*** is that?" That must be worth something ;) (OK, I am just being silly now)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top