Trying to turn pro!

S

SVTsupremecy

New member
Ok so I got 2 or so details lined up for some guys in my local car club for some extra $.I got a couple of questions for you Professionals.



#1 How/when do you guys use Vinegar for those water etchings (is there anything else its good for?)

#2 Isopropyl wipe down, Im using menzerna and is there any point in using Iso wipedowns? ...since menz has no fillers? How do you guys get best results when you do use it?

#3 What process do you think is best for me/customer?? (they're washing it before i come so i can get straight to paint correction)

1st process (sealant process)

Clay/ Menzerna SIP//106 then Duragloss 101-Danase Wet Glaze- DG 105



Or my Wax Route

Clay/ Menzerna SIP/106 Red machine glaze to Nattys Paste wax and AquaWax.



i told them $100-150 for this detail...what you guys think?
 
For etched paint, vinegar is not going to do much, if anything. Vinegar, because it is an acid, may help to remove water spotting. I would say there is no need for the IPA wipedown. Menzerna does dust a bit, but a dry or slightly damp MF can be used to remove the dust. As for the process it is dependent on what service you are offering and what the customer's expectations are. Is it full correction/reconditioning, or is it just polishing to improve the appearance of the paint. Usually it is best to keep the process simple. I usually do one polishing step and two at the most, depending on what I am trying to accomplish. It also depends on what type of machine (rotary or orbital) and your skill level with the machines. I would just clay (if necessary), polish with SIP and seal the paint. As for the price; that is up to you to decide based on your costs of doing business, your market conditions etc.
 
brwill2005 said:
For etched paint, vinegar is not going to do much, if anything. Vinegar, because it is an acid, may help to remove water spotting. I would say there is no need for the IPA wipedown. Menzerna does dust a bit, but a dry or slightly damp MF can be used to remove the dust. As for the process it is dependent on what service you are offering and what the customer's expectations are. Is it full correction/reconditioning, or is it just polishing to improve the appearance of the paint. Usually it is best to keep the process simple. I usually do one polishing step and two at the most, depending on what I am trying to accomplish. It also depends on what type of machine (rotary or orbital) and your skill level with the machines. I would just clay (if necessary), polish with SIP and seal the paint. As for the price; that is up to you to decide based on your costs of doing business, your market conditions etc.
Click to expand...



Quote for truth. If you're going to be any kind of paint correction I highly recommend claying it first. As for the steps and level or correction, that's between you and the customer and conditional on your level of skill with the machine. Good luck!
 
Im only using a PC, but id say im fairly good with it (not that theres anyway i could see someone being bad with it) But...SIP on a Orange pad finish down fairly well you guys think? And im definatly going to clay, as i think it makes almost as much improvement as polishing...in its own way.
 
Menzerna does not contain fillers no, but it does use a lubricant in the compounds that you will need to rewash off or alcohal wipe down. Unless you go back over it with a AIO product, you'll need to get the lubes off before you seal it.



I would not get my hopes up too much on paint correction if you're only using a PC, it will get out some oxidation and very light scratches and etching, but nothing major.



BTW, I would never trust the client to wash there own vehicle and then you take over at the clay and paint correction part of it. If you are getting paid, you need to take it from start to finish, do all the work yourself to ensure that it's done right and you get all the dirt off the car......if the customer misses a soiled spot or a part by the wheel wells and you buff over it, you risk buffing all those dirt particles right into the paint and ruining it.



My 0.02 cents.

Josh
 
#1 - You will find Bar Keepers Friend, in cleaning products isle of most supermarkets, will be a bit more aggressive than vinegar. Just follow the directions on the container.



#2 - Personally, I would never recommend using isopropyl alcohol on any vehicle.



#3 - Since you are trying to act like a professional, the best advice would be to thoroughly wash the vehicle yourself, rather than going directly to the paint work. It is never a good idea to under estimate the importance of working with a totally clean painted surface.



What we think about the price really has nothing to do with the deal you worked out with the guys from your car club. That's your call.
 
i understand a PC isnt going to get those deep scratches and bad oxidation...but im going to try the best i can with SIP and see what i can do. I think most of my customers will be suprised at how much i can get out (all those swirl marks + some) and thats all im after. If i feel good about how the car came out and the customer does then it worked out. I think you guys brought up some very good points about the INITIAL wash, its giving me something to think about. As for Bar Keepers Friend, how do you personally use it? do you 50/50 it with water? I appreciate the great advice guys.
 
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