Trusty Old Meguiars #83

great work with the #83 and rotary...



I prefer to use #83 w/PC and 6" yellow sonus pads (got some pics I will post in click and brag once I have enough posts)
 
mikebai1990 said:
Well, I don't think it means chem cleaners and abrasives, but now that you mention it: The 83 also has diminishing abrasives, meaning that the abrasives become finer and finer as you work the product. Maybe this is what it means by dual action? I'm not so sure now :)
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no.



it has cleaners in it, as well as abrasives.



i was right.



toot toot.
 
YOu guys who prefer the rotary to the Porter Cable. Can you direct us to a video for its proper use so as not to create the dreaded holograms and/or swirling? Some how, I managed to acquire a cheap, 7" Wen Rotary which has 2 speeds: 1100 and 1350 rpms.



I was thinking I might be able to use the 1100 rpm speed for some scratch removal duty, but I dont want to attempt it until Im able to view some videos on the proper rotary use first.. So many people have ruined their days by not using it properly .. Thanks.



I just found a series of 5 'how-to' videos on the user of the rotary which were the best Ive seen. The guy giving the class at Meguiars really knew his stuff... Meguiar's Online - How to Introduction to Wetsanding and Rotary Buffing. (Video) They call them wet sanding videos, but theyre mostly about the rotary and removing wet sanding marks , and polishing



But one thing bothered me a little. After the tech finished up cutting the wet sanding marks with the rotary, he worked half the area with the rotary to eliminate the remaining swirls, and the rest he worked with their G100, which is a porter cable, and their #83 dual action cleaner polish, a pretty aggessive polish. Well, his point was compared to what the rotary was able to do pretty quickly, the dual action even with teh strong #83 left what he termed, a Dramatic amount of micromarring.



NOw, I know that the rotary is the utmost in polishing, but I thought the PC was at least able to get rid of most of the swirls. I was surprised when the class leaned over to inspect the work only to find such a dramatic difference. I think it shows up in video number 4 or 5. Anyway, its a really enjoyable series of videos because the guy explaining and demonstrating was so competent.
 
You know, I never understood the problem with #83 either. I've only used it via PC but it always worked well for me. I just follow the instructions and work it until its almost dry.........
 
I'm going to be getting a UDM pretty soon and my plan of action is going to be to start out with #83 and an orange LC pad, then after a few passes with that combo I'll go with #80 and a white LC pad, then finish up with #21. I love Meguiar's products, they don't cost a fortune and they've worked well for a lot of people for many years. And Meguiar's customer service is top notch, they've got a great team of guys working for them to answer any questions you might have about how to work with their stuff.
 
sixty7mustang22 said:
Dave, I am interested to hear which pad you used to achieve that quality of finish?
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Meguiars W8006 polishing pad in this case... I rarely use cutting pads, dont find it necessary to use aggressive pads, prefer the softer approach for getting sharper finishes. :)





Re: #83 on the rotary, the key for me has always been to ensure the product is thoroughly worked - its got a long work time, longer than you might expect, but taking the polish to the point where its practically vanished for me ensured a sharp and hologram free finish. Also, dont be tempted to flood the pad with product, it'll take forever and a day to break down all of it and it will splatter, the result of which will also be hologramming as you pick up abrasives later in your sets.
 
Interesting. I have been using #83 and white wool as of late to bring back 2500 grit wet sanding with great results. Question though, someone posted earlier about a white foam pad? Is that pad a harder white foam? or a soft white foam?
 
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