Trouble with Meguiar's D300

D

darkonion

New member
Hi all.



For some reason, I am having a lot of trouble with Meguiar's D300 cutting compound. Can you guys give me some tips on how to better utilize the compound. For some reason, I am not getting the correction quality I am looking for.



I pretty much follow the directions here: ‪Autogeek.net - New Meguiars Microfiber DA System‬‏ - YouTube



Here's how I use it:



I usually prime the pad with product, and have my PC run on speed 5. I feel that on speed 4, I usually am applying too much pressure and the pad stops spinning. For some reason, I get product caking onto the paint and it's troublesome to remove. I might be working a slightly bigger area than what is shown on the video. But yeah... I am not getting the same type of results that most other people are getting and it's starting to get frustrating. Yeah... any tips? ideas?



-Kevin a.k.a. D.O.
 
darkonion said:
...I usually prime the pad with product, and have my PC run on speed 5. I feel that on speed 4, I usually am applying too much pressure and the pad stops spinning. For some reason, I get product caking onto the paint and it's troublesome to remove...
Click to expand...



Caking is usually a sign that you are using too much product.



Do you mean that the compound sticks to the paint, is thin, and stuck like glue?



Or, do you mean that there is so much goop on the surface that you can't see the paint in sections?



Is the pad completely coated to the point the fibers are not showing anymore?
 
Hi Kevin. Thank you for the quick response. I'll do several passes, with a single application of product, when I try to remove the polish, it takes a bit of effort. Like... I am really rubbing to get that stuff off.



I feel like I am over applying product to the pad with product. Should I be applying product in such a way that only the top part of the fibers are covered? I also feel that I am not really breaking down the product... or it isn't breaking down as well as it should.



I'll see if I get better results with less product.
 
darkonion said:
Hi Kevin. Thank you for the quick response. I'll do several passes, with a single application of product, when I try to remove the polish, it takes a bit of effort. Like... I am really rubbing to get that stuff off.

I feel like I am over applying product to the pad with product. Should I be applying product in such a way that only the top part of the fibers are covered? I also feel that I am not really breaking down the product... or it isn't breaking down as well as it should.



I'll see if I get better results with less product.
Click to expand...





What is the temp of the panels you are working on?, D300 is golden all day every day and is a breeze to wipe off even on "Sticky" Porsche finishes(996).
 
I agree with Kevin, it sounds like you're using too much product. Symptoms of this are:

- not getting the expected cut

- product flashing/caking on the paint

- unexpectedly long working time



In my experience, after the pad is primed (which doesn't take much product anyway), you only need a couple of pea-sized dots per polishing area (~2'x2')
 
I think we all have a little "more is better" way of thinking, I know I'm way guilty of that. Like others said, cut back on product, and do you have compressed air to clean the pad after using?
 
JuneBug said:
I think we all have a little "more is better" way of thinking, I know I'm way guilty of that. Like others said, cut back on product, and do you have compressed air to clean the pad after using?
Click to expand...

Agreed, you don't realize the "less is more" theory applies to polish as quick as you do with wax :)
 
Do you spur the pad? If you have, I high recommend reading the Kevin Brown Method. It's a really great resource. It tremedously improved my technique.



When i get a caking pad I usually set it aside and get another. Are you saying it's caking after one pass on a clean pad?
 
Auto Concierge said:
What is the temp of the panels you are working on?, D300 is golden all day every day and is a breeze to wipe off even on "Sticky" Porsche finishes(996).
Click to expand...



Hi Bob. I am in Davis, CA, so... maybe high 70's last evening. Sounds like I am applying way to much product. I'll cut back way back on product next time.



animes2k said:
I agree with Kevin, it sounds like you're using too much product. Symptoms of this are:

- not getting the expected cut

- product flashing/caking on the paint

- unexpectedly long working time



In my experience, after the pad is primed (which doesn't take much product anyway), you only need a couple of pea-sized dots per polishing area (~2'x2')
Click to expand...



This sounds exactly what is happening to me.



JuneBug said:
I think we all have a little "more is better" way of thinking, I know I'm way guilty of that. Like others said, cut back on product, and do you have compressed air to clean the pad after using?
Click to expand...



Unfortunately, I don't. I really need to invest in that MF brush thingy.



AuAltima3.5 said:
Do you spur the pad? If you have, I high recommend reading the Kevin Brown Method. It's a really great resource. It tremedously improved my technique.



When i get a caking pad I usually set it aside and get another. Are you saying it's caking after one pass on a clean pad?
Click to expand...



Not sure what spur means... but I'll give a try a little later and see if there is some improvement and we'll see what happens.
 
Buffing technique is not only one of the most important factors in DA correction with this product/system, but keeping your pad clean is too. After your pad is primed, keeping it clean (I prefer compressed air) will insure the pad/product is working at full capabilty. Can you give us updates on your progress?
 
Thanks David.



Sure. I played with a panel today and I didn't use as much product as I did in the past. I just put 3 or 4 pea sized drops on the pad. I decided against priming the pad. I feel like I just put way to much product if I do.



Like Kevin Brown mentioned, he mentioned something about still being able to see the fibers. I interpreted that as putting enough product on the pad such that the product is on the top layer and doesn't soak down further.



Today was a much better day. I was able to break down the product much more effectively. I was able to wipe it off much easier, and the result was much much better.



I feel that not priming the pad is the way to go. Maybe next time, I'll start with 3 or 4 pea size drops, and after each panel, I'll add one pea size amount of product. Maybe two if the panel is larger.



Thanks for everyone's help. All the tips and suggestions made it much easier for me to work with the product.



-Kevin
 
I find compressed air to be kind of a must with these pads. I know it is optional and brushes work, but blowing them out is so much better ime; You need *so* little product once the pads is primed its ridiculous. The only time I've had D300 cake is when the pad was a bit wet to start. Definitely try using less compound and getting the pads nice and clean when the fibers flatten out.
 
Picus said:
I find compressed air to be kind of a must with these pads. I know it is optional and brushes work, but blowing them out is so much better ime; You need *so* little product once the pads is primed its ridiculous. The only time I've had D300 cake is when the pad was a bit wet to start. Definitely try using less compound and getting the pads nice and clean when the fibers flatten out.
Click to expand...



I've noticed the wet pad thing, too... Do you use an air compressor or a bottle of compressed air to blow stuff off the pad?
 
darkonion said:
I've noticed the wet pad thing, too... Do you use an air compressor or a bottle of compressed air to blow stuff off the pad?
Click to expand...



I use a compressor. I haven't tried the bottles, I'd probably go through them like nuts though; I hit the pads with air after each pass. It's too awesome not to.



JuneBug said:
Get a little pancake compressor - 6 gal - I have a Porta Cable model that works like a champ.
Click to expand...



tdekany said:
Got a link? I used my steamer yesterday for cleaning the MF pads. :rockon:
Click to expand...



I've wondered about that PC compressor. I've messed with some pancake ones and they all seemed meh, but they were small sizes like this (Campbell Hausfeld FP2028 - 1-Gallon Pancake Air Compressor). The 6 gal from PC looks really nice though for portability. Actually, the guys who put the roof on my garage used one of these (Porter Cable Product Details for Heavy-Duty 1 Gallon (3.8L) 135 PSI Max Quiet Trim Compressor - Model # C1010) and swore by it. It seemed pretty decent for something so tiny.
 
Hmmmm. I am not that professional or anything. Kind of hard for me to justify spending that much money on an air compressor. Maybe I can find something super cheap at Harbor Freight. Thanks for the tips everyone! Much much happier with the system now!



I played with a friends door panel today, and this is what I got. No 50/50 shot or anything, but the result is definitely noticeable. Took a pic with a point and shoot!



271126_10100454385000643_3203798_56399319_3186179_n.jpg
 
After you blow off or clean your pad , try a very quick (small or light) spritz of water onto the pad or even onto the panel. You will be suprised at the cutting power left on the pad. Try this and let me know what you think. I use this to save on product and keep pads cleaner. Anyone else use this method ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top