Treatment for protection of brand new car parked outside?

[peterp]

I'm not sure why you'd want to use an acidic decontamination product if you don't want it to get through the Zaino to contact the paint

Sorry -- my question is confusing without more context. I have a garage queen (driven only every couple weeks and seldom in winter) that I've applied a lot of coats of Zaino to. It still looks great, so I just add Zaino layers occasionally, but I don't start from scratch using ZAIO for example. Even though it mostly sits in the garage, it does pick up surface junk that you can feel. I have successfully used clay (after asking about it on Autopia) to remove the surface particles without removing the existing layers, and then added new Zaino layers on top. I guess what I'm asking is if I could do one better to use the clay AND the Iron X surface decontaminant to clean up the surface without removing the existing Zaino layers.



I apologize for drifting from my original thread topic with this question, but these Iron X type products are quite interesting to me now that I'm aware of them and I see surprisingly little discussion of them (only a few threads) when I search Autopia for Iron X.

 

[Accumulator]

peterp- AH, OK...I'd wondered if you meant something like that but wasn't sure. For that sort of "decontaminating the LSP" I myself would stick with only (very gentle) clay.

 

[Ch96067]

Peter, In terms of Iron X have a look at detailing world. There is a lot of info/reviewing/testing etc. there. also some similar products like wolf's brake buster.



The commonly used way (my understanding at least) of Iron X is before claying, in order to bring up/release/chemicaly encapsulate the rust particles and then (after rinsing) clay takes over with the mechanical action removing what's left behind.



Finally on soap gel vs liquid, the first is the 'shampoo' of the range, the second is the concentrated cleaning agent.

Have a look here for some info.



Carpro IronX (500ml) - Shinearama

Carpro IronX Soap Gel (500ml) - Shinearama

 

[peterp]

peterp- AH, OK...I'd wondered if you meant something like that but wasn't sure. For that sort of "decontaminating the LSP" I myself would stick with only (very gentle) clay.

Thanks for the feedback -- I'll stick to clay only for the Zaino'd car

Peter, In terms of Iron X have a look at detailing world. There is a lot of info/reviewing/testing etc. there. also some similar products like wolf's brake buster.



The commonly used way (my understanding at least) of Iron X is before claying, in order to bring up/release/chemicaly encapsulate the rust particles and then (after rinsing) clay takes over with the mechanical action removing what's left behind.



Finally on soap gel vs liquid, the first is the 'shampoo' of the range, the second is the concentrated cleaning agent.

Have a look here for some info.



Carpro IronX (500ml) - Shinearama

Carpro IronX Soap Gel (500ml) - Shinearama

Thanks for the info. It sounds like I'm doing the right thing to get the Soap Gel rather than the spray, especially given that it's new paint. Doing Iron X to loosen/raise the particles before claying also makes a lot of sense -- I wanted to use Iron X after claying to make sure I also removed any residue from the Mothers Detailer I use with the clay, but it does sound worthwhile to clay after Iron X so I'll look other ways to make sure the surface is clean after claying to be ready for the Opti-Coat.

 

[Accumulator]

..I'll look other ways to make sure the surface is clean after claying to be ready for the Opti-Coat.

Claying shouldn't leave too much residue IMO, and I'm probably more paranoid about this than most would be. A wash with something somewhat potent (e.g., AutoInt/ValuGard's "A", FK1119, Optimum's Power Clean, or even just a really strong mix of regular shampoo) oughta work fine.



Actually, I'd probably be more concerned about marring from the clay process. Brand-new car, right? No existing marring? I'd probably hope that the decon process was sufficient (no, I don't think that's a contradiction to what I posted previously ). Maybe it'll be sufficient, maybe it won't....I'd just keep my fingers crossed and be prepared in case you do have to clay.

 

[peterp]

Actually, I'd probably be more concerned about marring from the clay process.

I've found that Mothers clay is pretty much idiot-proof. I started claying with Mothers clay and never had a single issue with it. A while back, thinking there must be something better than Mothers because it's a store brand, I tried Zaino (love their products in general but their clay is like bubble gum), some gray clay (don't remember the brand but it was a higher-end brand than Mothers), and Meguires clay and had issues with them all. I literally didn't know what marring was until I strayed from Mothers. To be honest I'm a little scared about using the Iron X decontamination and OptiCoat on brand-new paint on a brand-new car, but marring is not something that worries me based upon my experience with Mothers clay (note to self: call Mothers to inquire about commission )

 

[Thomas Dekany]

With JB BMW paint I guarantee lots of marring unfortunately.

Claying shouldn't leave too much residue IMO, and I'm probably more paranoid about this than most would be. A wash with something somewhat potent (e.g., AutoInt/ValuGard's "A", FK1119, Optimum's Power Clean, or even just a really strong mix of regular shampoo) oughta work fine.



Actually, I'd probably be more concerned about marring from the clay process. Brand-new car, right? No existing marring? I'd probably hope that the decon process was sufficient (no, I don't think that's a contradiction to what I posted previously ). Maybe it'll be sufficient, maybe it won't....I'd just keep my fingers crossed and be prepared in case you do have to clay.

 

[Thomas Dekany]

Not on your JB paint it isn't. Heck even wiping it with a new towel can mar it. For your information, please read previous posts on Jet Black paint. It isn't anything you have ever seen.



There was a guy on here a couple of years ago or was it on a BMW board that didn't listen. Once he picked up the car JB, he never ever posted again. If one is into car care, JB is a no no. Sorry.

][BI've found that Mothers clay is pretty much idiot-proof.[/B] I started claying with Mothers clay and never had a single issue with it. A while back, thinking there must be something better than Mothers because it's a store brand, I tried Zaino (love their products in general but their clay is like bubble gum), some gray clay (don't remember the brand but it was a higher-end brand than Mothers), and Meguires clay and had issues with them all. I literally didn't know what marring was until I strayed from Mothers. To be honest I'm a little scared about using the Iron X decontamination and OptiCoat on brand-new paint on a brand-new car, but marring is not something that worries me based upon my experience with Mothers clay (note to self: call Mothers to inquire about commission )

 

[peterp]

Not on your JB paint it isn't.

The Audi Q5 was ordered with Moonlight Blue Metallic. It's a fairly dark blue (although not as dark as the Deep Sea Blue they offered on the 2011 models), but hopefully it won't be as sensitive as the Jet Black you are referring to. I've never owned a black car -- too much maintenance for me (but they do look great when they're done right)

 

[Bill D]

I think you'll find the metallic will really help in keeping the color looking great. I have my first metallic painted car,Belize Blue, and Ive been finding it fun making the flakes pop. It's a whole other animal than solid black. If you have a magnifier handy,especially a lighted mini microscope, you can take a look at the paint and it looks like a jewel, kinda similar to lapis. It's just one other thing that makes metallics really cool that can't be said about solids.

 

[peterp]

I think you'll find the metallic will really help in keeping the color looking great. I have my first metallic painted car,Belize Blue, and Ive been finding it fun making the flakes pop. It's a whole other animal than solid black. If you have a magnifier handy,especially a lighted mini microscope, you can take a look at the paint and it looks like a jewel, kinda similar to lapis. It's just one other thing that makes metallics really cool that can't be said about solids.

Definitely agree with you -- metallics do hide a lot versus solids. My sister-in-law had a solid blue Mercedes and it was difficult to keep looking good. Our metallic blue BMW looks pretty good even though it sits out -- would look much worse if it had the Mercedes solid blue color for sure.

 

[Accumulator]

That same "hiding" that some believe makes metallics easy to live with can make them a royal PIA to inspect. Seems like (admittedly light) marring that I can't easily see in the shop appears like magic in the real world. This is where incandescent inspection lights come in...

 

[peterp]

Resurrecting this thread since I am about to begin the work after ordering and receiving the following:



1. Q5, blue

2. Iron-X, soap

3. Opti-Coat, 2.0

4. Poli-Seal



I am going to do the work this evening and/or tomorrow and have 2 questions:



1. The Iron-x bottle instructions don't have any warnings about avoiding any surface types, but I read instructions when ordering it to avoid getting Iron-X on chrome or wheel weights. My question is do I need to be careful about taping off chrome emblems and the window surround trim (which I think is stainless or aluminum)?



2. The instructions about what to use it on are also sparse for opti-coat, it only says don't use it on glass. Is it ok to use OC on the following:



A. Black plastic trim

B. The trim surrounding the window (stainless or aluminum, I'm not sure which)

C. The rubber on the window surround (around the metal trim)



Thanks,

Peter

 

[autoaesthetica]

Resurrecting this thread since I am about to begin the work after ordering and receiving the following:



1. Q5, blue

2. Iron-X, soap

3. Opti-Coat, 2.0

4. Poli-Seal



I am going to do the work this evening and/or tomorrow and have 2 questions:



1. The Iron-x bottle instructions don't have any warnings about avoiding any surface types, but I read instructions when ordering it to avoid getting Iron-X on chrome or wheel weights. My question is do I need to be careful about taping off chrome emblems and the window surround trim (which I think is stainless or aluminum)?



2. The instructions about what to use it on are also sparse for opti-coat, it only says don't use it on glass. Is it ok to use OC on the following:



A. Black plastic trim

B. The trim surrounding the window (stainless or aluminum, I'm not sure which)

C. The rubber on the window surround (around the metal trim)



Thanks,

Peter

Peter the soap is used straight up, just apply to a sponge and apply to the area to keep it damp with product as it reacts, also agitate the area to ensure coverage and new chemical contact. You shouldn't need to tape off with this method.



Wheel weights will just turn ugly green, and some plastic trims have been stained along with chrome coatings, just be aware and wipe away quickly. Working in smaller areas after your regular wash will help.



I have applied OC to literally everything on a car before, I think aside from the glass(which works well but could be a liability issues) I think you are cleared for takeoff. THough on the rubber you might want to consider a conditioning treatment applied regularly in place of OCing them.

 

[peterp]

Peter the soap is used straight up, just apply to a sponge and apply to the area to keep it damp with product as it reacts, also agitate the area to ensure coverage and new chemical contact. You shouldn't need to tape off with this method.



Wheel weights will just turn ugly green, and some plastic trims have been stained along with chrome coatings, just be aware and wipe away quickly. Working in smaller areas after your regular wash will help.



I have applied OC to literally everything on a car before, I think aside from the glass(which works well but could be a liability issues) I think you are cleared for takeoff. THough on the rubber you might want to consider a conditioning treatment applied regularly in place of OCing them.

Thanks Mike. I did exactly as you suggested and it came out great (even the wheel weights). I can't thank everyone enough for steering towards these products. Without everyone's input, I would have used traditional polish and I think that would have been a major mistake. I'm pretty thrilled with the OC. As far as I can tell, I don't have any high spots. I plan to top it with Poli-Seal since that gives the OC a slicker feel. Does anyone know how long I should let the OC cure before using the Poli-seal?

 

[wascallyrabbit]

ps is a aio so i wouldn't use it on to of the oc. ps has so abrasive qualities that will start to thin the oc. i'v not found the need to top my oc with anything more than a detail spray when i dry the car.

 

[peterp]

ps is a aio so i wouldn't use it on to of the oc. ps has so abrasive qualities that will start to thin the oc. i'v not found the need to top my oc with anything more than a detail spray when i dry the car.

Thanks, I guess I'll leave it alone then. I saw a couple threads about using PS for OC high spots and it giving a smoother feel overall, but I don't want to risk thinning it so I'll just leave it as is.

 

[Accumulator]

peterp- Glad to hear it turned out well. You might want to try a leaves-stuff-behind type QD, perhaps it'll impart some slickness/etc. I've used FK425 on OptiCoated wheels with nice results.

 

[SuperBee364]

That same "hiding" that some believe makes metallics easy to live with can make them a royal PIA to inspect. Seems like (admittedly light) marring that I can't easily see in the shop appears like magic in the real world. This is where incandescent inspection lights come in...

The incandescent lights in the garage door openers and a "bulb on a rope" were the only way I could find OC high spots on my blue metallic. Incandescent lights, IMO, are a "must have" when dealing with metallic paints, and especially so for post Opti-Coat inspection.



Peterp, you might want to consider doing a very thorough inspection for Opti-Coat areas of over application using nothing other than incandescent lights. Pull your car into the garage, and shut the garage door. Using an incandescent bulb on an extension cord ("bulb on a rope") as your *only* light source (turn off all other lights in the garage, especially fluorescent ones), inspect the paint from as many angles as you can. The incandescent light will make the areas of over application appear like a milky substance on top of the paint. You may be surprised to find a few areas that looked just fine in normal lighting.



If you find any, you can attempt to knock it down with an ONR damp rag. I was quite surprised that an ONR damp rag took care of all my high spots even after the OC had cured for several hours. If that doesn't work, then gently go over the area with your Poly-Seal.



Grats on that beautiful new ride!

 

[peterp]

The incandescent lights in the garage door openers and a "bulb on a rope" were the only way I could find OC high spots on my blue metallic. Incandescent lights, IMO, are a "must have" when dealing with metallic paints, and especially so for post Opti-Coat inspection.



Peterp, you might want to consider doing a very thorough inspection for Opti-Coat areas of over application using nothing other than incandescent lights. Pull your car into the garage, and shut the garage door. Using an incandescent bulb on an extension cord ("bulb on a rope") as your *only* light source (turn off all other lights in the garage, especially fluorescent ones), inspect the paint from as many angles as you can. The incandescent light will make the areas of over application appear like a milky substance on top of the paint. You may be surprised to find a few areas that looked just fine in normal lighting.



If you find any, you can attempt to knock it down with an ONR damp rag. I was quite surprised that an ONR damp rag took care of all my high spots even after the OC had cured for several hours. If that doesn't work, then gently go over the area with your Poly-Seal.



Grats on that beautiful new ride!

Thanks for the info. After inspecting it in the garage last night (wish I knew about the bulb on a rope trick then), I brought it out in the sun today and did find a 3 high spots, 2 I was able to get with Z6 (didn't have any ONR on hand) and one was pretty thick so it required poli-seal but came right out. Definitely agree that many types of light are necessary to see it. I was pretty surprised at how few spots I had especially since my track record with Z-CS was not good (always came out ok in the end, but needed Z6 to clean up areas every time).