Trash in my New Paint

M

MRM1

New member
Grrrr ... Just had my 06 Murrano repainted. Was pretty specific on the quality i was looking for. Shop assured ... Blah, blah, blah. Well the car came out with more orange peel than i would like. Not much i can do about that. Dont want to sand it. BUT ... Also has several places where there is just trash in the paint. Shop says a little imperfection is normal. :doh:



So now i am left to attempt the trash removal myself. What are the typical steps for trash removal in new paint? These are just random raised spots of junk probably due to poor tack rag work and/or trash in the booth.



Stuff i have on hand:

- 1500 and 2000 grit wet paper

- Wolfgang swirl remover

- HD UNO and poxy

- clay and a new Optimum eraser synthetic aggressive clay bar

- PC 7424 XP DA

- LC orange, white, black and red pads for he PC

- Harbor Frieght rotary with an LC orange pad



I was thinking:

1. Wash and clay

2. Soak the 2000 and block sand the spots. Work in very small quarter size areas

3. Spot polish with the swirl remover and a drill attached 2" pad

4. Use the swirl remover on the entire car with the PC DA and the LC orange pad

5. Use UNO on the entire car with the LC white pad

6. Use HD Polish on entire car with LC black pad (is HD polish even necessary?)

(Are these products safe to use on new paints with out "sealing" the new paint before cured)



The paint is only 2weeks old ... So no poxy or nitro seal. Do these steps sound correct?



Thanks for any suggestions

Mike
 
[Shop says a little imperfection is normal]



If we go on accepting sub-standard work and paying for it, and then to add insult to injury, we correct it ourselves; what incentive is there for them to do quality work?
 
TOGWT said:
[Shop says a little imperfection is normal]



If we go on accepting sub-standard work and paying for it, and then to add insult to injury, we correct it ourselves; what incentive is there for them to do quality work?
Click to expand...



While I would agree with this ... The shop is an hour away, it has already been back once and it is getting to be a bit of a hassle. Tired of fooling with them.
 
MRM1- I'd sure proceed cautiously, it'd be easy to do something you'd regret. Any way to talk you out of doing this?



OK...sigh...



I'd rather see you work with 2K and 3K paper, rather than the 1500 (and yeah, I know all the arguments why you *should* use 1500 ;) ).



I'd absolutely skip the "smr on drill" step! Way too little control of it IMO, just a "rotary mishap waiting to happen". Small plates/pads on the PC oughta work fine (I'm a big fan of the 3" setup for this, using Meguiar's FM Cutting Disks and/or Griot's orange foam polishing pads).



I'd also skip the aggressive claybar.



IME you *will* need to use something like Polish after Uno, which just never finished out to my satisfaction.



I'd probably want to use Meguiar's MF Cutting Disks to clear up the sanding marks, with M105 or M101.



Yeah, you can compound/polish now, but the paint might be a bit soft compared to how it'll end up after a while, so be careful.



I know from contamination issues; one of the shops I patronize is in desperate need of a new building/booth and so I understand that it can happen. BUT by the sound of it the shop that did yours simply turns out mediocre work, so I'd be extra careful about everything. Like...wonder if there are any thin areas :think: Wonder if they did the prep very well :confused: Again, I sure hope you proceed cautiously.
 
Contact/Call Kevin brown aka Buff Daddy. He's a site sponsor and not only does he have everything you need for this job but he will answer any questions you may have. Trust me on this!



Buff Daddy
 
Thanks all



Accumulator - sounds like #1 you are saying my paint is yet too soft. So I can wait the full 30 days or so before doing anything. And using 3000 grit is no problem either. I was just going to use the paper on the very small areas where the trash is ... spots about the size of soda tops.



I do like the idea of using a DA and the Denim or Velvet pads. I have a pretty good idea the clear coat is rather thick. The Shop "finished" the job Aug 7. I took it back because they had spot sanded some of the trash spots and never polished it back up. When they saw it ... the said "lets just sand and clear the who car again". So a week after it was "done" it stayed the nite again and the next day it was very deep and shinny. But the trash that had been in spots A, B and C was gone ... now there was new trash in new spots. So I know it got a third coat of clear that was "done" again and picked up on Aug 13.



So all base paint and 1st 2 coats of clear were done 4 weeks ago and the 3rd coat of clear was done 3 weeks ago. I'll just wait a few more weeks ... then go slow and easy.



And thanks Mike ... I may "tag" Buff Daddy in this thread and see what he has to say.
 
Yeah the problem with the shop right now is since they did my last work ... they lost their spray guy. The chap that did the spray work on my car was the shop manager. Blah ... last spring they did my daughters car, it is an 02 Yaris - basically a beater, and it came out perfect. That is why they got my car. I was very disappointed and am still going to go see them BEFORE I do anything. Does have a 3 year respray warrenty though.
 
I work in a major body shop in the seattle area...most shops dont have the money to spend on a good detail department so nibs as we call them or trash as u say dont get cut out and buffed. My shop however has a very high standard of paint appearance. My partner and I cut and buff every newly painted panel and thier adjacent panels. Dirt in clearcoat in a high production shop is very common just becasue of time the painter has to clean and blow off panels. Now as for asking how to remove the dirt completely is to sand with 1500 grit until u see the dirt speck or piece of scotch brite and the pooled clear disapear (we use a smal two inch da sander for this) then follow with ungrit or triact 3000 grit paper until the area is uniform and the 1500 scratches have disapeared. U might say well i can remove the 1500 grit scratches with a high intensity compound and i would say your clear is too new for an agressive comound. In my expeirence removing 1500 grit scratvches from new clear just isnt good for the clearcoat at all. So use a medium to fine compound and go slow while being careful to not introduce too much heat. After that i would use swirl remover throughout all the panels and ur done. so 1.1500 2.3000 3.medium buff 4. removal of swirls. Realatively easy prodcedure just use caution when sanding with 1500 esp if using a da sander. I wouldnt be too concered for your clear coat being too new i have cut and buffed numerous cars two hours out of the paint booth. Often times i use a 6 inch da sander with 1500 to take out dirt in panels that are too dirty for spot dirt removal then follow up with 3000 grit and buff. Long story short it can be done theres alot of ways to do it but if ur not entirely confodent u can do it i would take it bak to the shop and have them redo it unless its two of three peices per panel they really should stand behind thier work esp their paint work...hope i helped a little atleast...if this was an insurance job complain the insurance company that the job was not done to a quality standard unless u have progressive insurance...
 
Curtis_rose22,  That was some fantasitic info. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.  I have learned a lot about body some paint jobs from this experience and your comments helped me to see what to really expect in some cases. 


 


In the end, I used Denim Orange Peel pads.  The results were pretty decent. 
 
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