Toyota Tacoma??

B

bicycle

Member
Gonna correct 2008 Tacoma for a friend. It's white and has never been polished and I believe 2500 on an orange pad will do the job. However, do you guys considered this paint on the hard or soft side. I've worked only on my stuff and this would be a good practice job for me. Any suggestion needed.
Thanks
 
I'd say its in middle or the road for hardness, but the fender flares are soft so be carful with those, I haven't done to much on my tacomas paint it's in good shape and hard to see swirls and whatnot, it's black sand pearl in color...
 
My 2012 Tacoma is single stage black (202). It is very soft! I would imagine that the 2008 in question is also a single stage paint job, although the white color should be harder. A test spot is the only way to find out. I would love to see pictures upon completion!
 
I believe it is single stage, my old '05 white Tacoma was. My 2012 Tacoma is magnetic grey and clear coated. The white Tacomas can have tons of oxidation.
 
White is tough, that Phillips guy did an article on why but I don't remember the details. I'd say that's probably single stage. I've done a few and the before and afters are stunning. FWIW - wash with the strongest stuff you have, clay the snot out of it, then go at it with M101 or 100,MF pads or at least orange foam. Take your time, do small sections, clean the pad very often. You're about to enter the...............
OXIDATION ZONE!
 
The tacoma's are not a single stage paint they all have clear coats on them... No car makers use the single stage paint any more...
 
Weird, just read on another forum how Toyota still uses single stage on black, white and red.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2
 
Lou Bunn said:
White is tough, that Phillips guy did an article on why but I don't remember the details. I'd say that's probably single stage. I've done a few and the before and afters are stunning. FWIW - wash with the strongest stuff you have, clay the snot out of it, then go at it with M101 or 100,MF pads or at least orange foam. Take your time, do small sections, clean the pad very often. You're about to enter the...............
OXIDATION ZONE!
Click to expand...
The belief that white is harder had to do with the material used to tint the paint white. I believe, nowadays, that toners are used, so the color shouldn't matter too much.

I have only polished one Tacoma, and it was as easy as pie. Best bet is to always to a test spot and see how it turns out :)
 
lyodbraun said:
The tacoma's are not a single stage paint they all have clear coats on them... No car makers use the single stage paint any more...
Click to expand...

This is false. Toyota will confirm. Your Black Sand Pearl is in fact a multi stage paint process. BSP was replaced with black (202) which is a single stage application.

parttimer said:
Weird, just read on another forum how Toyota still uses single stage on black, white and red.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

This is true. Toyota Motor Company will confirm. Not sure about red however, Barcelona or Radiant?
 
spiralout462 said:
This is false. Toyota will confirm. Your Black Sand Pearl is in fact a multi stage paint process. BSP was replaced with black (202) which is a single stage application.



This is true. Toyota Motor Company will confirm. Not sure about red however, Barcelona or Radiant?
Click to expand...

If true then when he tests a spot the pad will have paint on it.... I'm willing to bet it won't lol... I hope the OP keeps us updated and if it had clear or not on it...
 
Tacoma white paint is single stage. I've had both a 2005 and 2011. On both trucks, I checked out the color and paint type with a factory rep. Both times I was told that it is single stage.
 
I am not sure what year they went to single stage but i recently polished a white 1998 Tacoma and it was definitely bc/cc not single stage.
 
In order to make white really pop you need to remove the imbedded contaminants and really deep clean the paint. Iron-X, clay then Duragloss 501. The 501 is one of the best cleaning AIO's that you can use. It makes white sparkle and leaves behind some serious protection that should last you 4-6 months. It does not have a lot of cut but it does have tremendous cleaning ability.
 
Ive polished a Tacoma and two tundras. Ive found them to be on the somewhat medium to hard side. I used D300 and the Megs 5 inch cutting discs. On the black tundra, I needed to use a finer polish to refine the finish because there was some haze.
 
The pigment used for Toyota's SS Super White is titanium oxide, which is hard. However, if the paint isn't completely oxidized it may not be too hard. But, if the paint is oxidized it may be on the harder side, which I am betting is going to be the situation since it's never been polished. I have a client with an '08 Tundra, and the first time I corrected it it was a true pain in the butt. I had a good half inch of paint and spent compound/polish in the bottom of my pad washer bucket when I got done. I worked on it for over 15 hours and still had areas that needed another couple of passes to bring the gloss up to what it should have been. So that being said I would do several test spots on different areas. The upper portions of the bed were probably the toughest areas for me to get to gloss up like the rest of the truck. Once you remove the oxidation/dullness you will probably see the deeper scratches/RIDS which will leave you compounding those areas twice. Working clean is going to be key regardless of what combination of pad and product you decide to go with, but, especially if you go with MF pads. I gave up the first time trying to use D300 and the MF cutting pad due to it being too hard to wipe off. This was partially my fault since at the time I hadn't learned how to properly use the DAMF kit. I think part of it was the fact that the pad was loading up with oxidation fairly quick and was soaking up the compound causing it to flash too quick. Less is more, and a spritz of water goes further sometimes rather than adding more product to an already broken in pad.
2500 and an orange, light cutting pad could work fairly well on this paint, but you won't know until you do a test spot or two. And it will depend on how many defects are under the dull, oxidized paint, and what level your friend wants the paint brought up to. Have a wool pad and or MF pads on standby would be helpful, and may make it a much quicker task of removing defects. Meg's UC would probably be a great option for this paint with an orange pad or something with more cut. How many pads do you have and what tool/polisher do you have? This would be an ideal job to have pad washer. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top