Torque wrench....
- Thread starter PiL
- Start date
Redcar GUY
New member
I have 2 of them one that is a 1/2 inch drive that gos from 20-150ftlbs and a 3/8 drive that gos from 0-75 ftlbs. Both are Craftsmen. I use them now and then for car stuff, some things on motors and other stuff MUST be torqued. I am not sure that it would be needed just for oil changes. I use mine to torque my lug nuts on the camaro, the way the hubs are set up it is VERY important. The 1/2 one was like $65 and the 3/8 was $30-40 I think, it has been a while since I got them. I think if you are planning on doing more work on your own stuff and not taking them in to have the work done they are a good idea. But then you need to know how much to torque the stuff so a good set of manuals is a good idea as well 
BoxsterCharlie
New member
I'm going to need a torque wrench pretty soon myself. Seems like a really smart thing to do the job right instead of just guessing.
Anyway, in my obsessive search for "the best" in everything I found Snap-On and Facom models for over $300! OK, I'm not that obsessed!
How about a Sears Craftsman...any good?
Anyway, in my obsessive search for "the best" in everything I found Snap-On and Facom models for over $300! OK, I'm not that obsessed!
How about a Sears Craftsman...any good?
Nagchampa
Oh I'll Bring the Shizzle
DO NOT skimp when buying a torque wrench!!!:nono
imported_Custom Detail
New member
Snap-on or Proto are by far the two best.
I will try to get you more info on Torque wrenches.
Torque wrenches are very different from regular tools as we know them.
I do Autocross and track with my car and tire changing is
common at all these events. Torque wrenches are used by everyone.
Never heard of anyone Torquing a crankcase plug.
Not necessary.
I will try to get you more info on Torque wrenches.
Torque wrenches are very different from regular tools as we know them.
I do Autocross and track with my car and tire changing is
common at all these events. Torque wrenches are used by everyone.
Never heard of anyone Torquing a crankcase plug.
Not necessary.
I found afew in my Craftsman catalog. A plane 3/8 25-250 in lbs for 72.28 or a 1/2 20-150 ft pounds forr the same price. I am a big craftsman fan i figure why spend double just for the name snap on or mac. Craftsman has a lifetime warrnty an in my oppion is just as good plus if it breaks just take it to sears no tryin to find the snap-on man.
imported_edschwab1
New member
Iowan_Juggalo said:
The Craftman Torque Wrenches do not have a lifetime warranty. Most torque wrenches have a warranty which is a year or less.
With that said, I have a Husky Torque wrench, but have used a craftsman torque wrench and prefer the Craftsman.
Eric
Don't bother buying a torque wrench. I did and returned it the next day. The instruction booklet was just to big and seemed complicated. Just use a basic wrench or socket wrench and use your best judgment. Not all of us want to be a weekend mechanic like reedcarefella.
Spend that money on some 303 or even Z2 or Z5.
My 2 cents
Spend that money on some 303 or even Z2 or Z5.
My 2 cents
I would have to disagree. Even a cheap one (<$50) is better than nothing, especially if you're working on your suspension or brakes! 
You do not want something to either come loose or snap off from excessive strain. Re-torquing my strut tower bolts after installing a bracing bar comes to mind, as those 3 little bolts are all that comes between the strut staying in or flying out.
The best kind are the ratcheting micrometer type because they click when they reach the torque you pre-set, and ratcheting just makes your life plain easier. The big 1/2" drive is probably more versatile for the range of torque settings you'd need most critically.
They're not hard to use at all, really.
You do not want something to either come loose or snap off from excessive strain. Re-torquing my strut tower bolts after installing a bracing bar comes to mind, as those 3 little bolts are all that comes between the strut staying in or flying out.The best kind are the ratcheting micrometer type because they click when they reach the torque you pre-set, and ratcheting just makes your life plain easier. The big 1/2" drive is probably more versatile for the range of torque settings you'd need most critically.
They're not hard to use at all, really.
70fastback
New member
I use torque wrenches every day. I do aircraft maintenance and I have seen fasteners fail from improper torque, from being both too tight and loose. Bad on an aircraft!!!! However, I wouldn't spend the money for one for tightening general hardware on an auto, ie oil pan drain plug. Just don't be a gorrila and over tighten the plug or other general/attaching hardware. Engine building is a different story. Head, crankshaft, rod bolts, etc need to be torqued, evenly. If you do decide to buy one, I would go with craftsman. I have two of them to cover vast range of torque values. Also, don't forget to maintain them. They should be calibrated periodically. If get one that clicks when you achieve your desired torque (the handle twists to set value), make sure you run it down to the lowest setting when you are finished with it.
imported_Custom Detail
New member
When lug nuts are too tight your rotars can warp. I've done that. Too loose and the lug nuts loosen. Not a happy prospect.
My car calls for 81 ft.lbs on each lug nut.
My wrench gives me half pound increments.
Most people don't require that.
If you need consisent accuracy, go on e-bay and take a look at some good wrenches. Many are sold as new. Thats how I got my Snap on at way below the regular price.
But they are still expensive, even at 25% off.
My car calls for 81 ft.lbs on each lug nut.
My wrench gives me half pound increments.
Most people don't require that.
If you need consisent accuracy, go on e-bay and take a look at some good wrenches. Many are sold as new. Thats how I got my Snap on at way below the regular price.
But they are still expensive, even at 25% off.
Nagchampa hit the nail on the head, don't get a cheap toruqe wrench!!!! They are not accurate and they loose calibraition quickly.
Torque wrenches ARE important. Many pieces require a certian amount of toruqe to hold fasteners depending on the weight of the part they are holding. With the soft metals many of the engine parts are made of today if you over torque something you can cause big problems. BTW, baltic is right. If you overtorque lug nut you will warp your rotors.
As for brands, stay away from Harbor Freight or any other cheapo. I own a Snap-On and love it, but I realize it's out of the price range of most folks. I would however say invest in a good wrench. Check out eBay, sometimes you can pick up a Snap-On or Mac torque wrench for the same price as a Craftsman or Husky.
Good Luck!
Torque wrenches ARE important. Many pieces require a certian amount of toruqe to hold fasteners depending on the weight of the part they are holding. With the soft metals many of the engine parts are made of today if you over torque something you can cause big problems. BTW, baltic is right. If you overtorque lug nut you will warp your rotors.
As for brands, stay away from Harbor Freight or any other cheapo. I own a Snap-On and love it, but I realize it's out of the price range of most folks. I would however say invest in a good wrench. Check out eBay, sometimes you can pick up a Snap-On or Mac torque wrench for the same price as a Craftsman or Husky.
Good Luck!
imported_Custom Detail
New member
Who makes what tools ??
Note the comments on Torque wrenches....
http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/whotools.html
Note the comments on Torque wrenches....
http://www.team.net/www/morgan/tech/whotools.html
imported_Custom Detail
New member
....and how to care for a torque wrench........
http://www.macdizzy.com/clicker.htm
The comment on helmets refers to track training/racing, Autocross and other crazy things that we do with our cars.
:wavey
http://www.macdizzy.com/clicker.htm
The comment on helmets refers to track training/racing, Autocross and other crazy things that we do with our cars.
:wavey
Thanks for the info guys. I just need one for oil changes for now, so I will hold off. I did my very first oil change a few weeks ago. Even though it's an easy job in hind sight, it was still trying on my mind. I didn't want to over tighten the oil plug or not have it tight enough, fearing it would come loose. I have a crush washer on there too. I just tightened it all the way, and then gave it a snug pull.
It was also the first oil chagne for the car and the oil filter was a PIA to get off. I thought I was going to break something I was trying so hard. I actually bent the oil filter wrench! I finally got it off with some work.
It was also the first oil chagne for the car and the oil filter was a PIA to get off. I thought I was going to break something I was trying so hard. I actually bent the oil filter wrench! I finally got it off with some work.
imported_Custom Detail
New member
Snug up the drain plug with a 10" wrench.
You will get used to the feel of it. Make sure it is tight.
The problem you might have is more likely to be with the oil filter. After you install the new one, and the oil is in, run the engine for 2 or 3 minutes. Check around the oil filter and drain plug while the engine is running.
See that the oil pressure light is out on the dash. If nothing is leaking you will be ok.
I replaced an engine for a customer because my guy didn't
check for leaks. Now THATS an expensive oil change.
:doh
You will get used to the feel of it. Make sure it is tight.
The problem you might have is more likely to be with the oil filter. After you install the new one, and the oil is in, run the engine for 2 or 3 minutes. Check around the oil filter and drain plug while the engine is running.
See that the oil pressure light is out on the dash. If nothing is leaking you will be ok.
I replaced an engine for a customer because my guy didn't
check for leaks. Now THATS an expensive oil change.
:doh
TortoiseAWD
New member
If you never wanna fiddle with that drain plug again, check out http://www.fumotovalve.com (see picture) . . . best $25 my parents ever spent on me (it was a Christmas gift a year back). It's a valve with a spring loaded bayonet switch to open, so it's secure on the road. The fumotovalve replaces your drainplug, and it comes with a gasket that replaces any washer that you currently have. Draining oil is as easy as flipping a switch! Now, if I could just figure a way to get my fiter off without oil running down my elbow (filter is mounted vertically), I'd be set . . .PiL said:
Mine was the same way the first time (dunno why they install them so tight at the factory). If you just tightened your new one to "snug", you won't have that problem next time.
Brad B
New member
I have used Torque Wrenches for many years, having done many car restorations and engine rebuilds. They are VERY important if you expect an engine or transmission to hold together over time. All torque wrenches, no matter the brand, will require recalibration or replacement over time. For basic engine rebuilding I have always used Craftsman, SK and SnapOn.
I bought a $10 harbor freight 1/2" one. When I set it to 80 ft/lbs for my lug nuts, it clicks, and sticks for an abnormally long time. Guess I got what I paid for.
I picked up an SK 3/8" 10-100 ft/lbs wrench(~$65), and at the same time, picked up a KD tools one (~$55, with the same specs) for a friend. Lo and behold, they were identical, down to the serial number sequence. I picked them up at http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net
The only thing was the SK came with a case, and the KD didn't. And, the cases cost $10, so, the cost of the wrenches is identical.
Now, I'm hunting for a good inch pound wrench, without spending an obscene amount of money. SK (or the identical KD one) has one that goes from 25-250 inch pounds, which is about perfect.
While visiting SK's page a few weeks ago, I see that they have a new line of torque wrenches coming out which look suspiciously like the Facom wrenches. I'm waiting for the tool warehouse to being carrying them to see how much they cost compared to the current line.
It has some nice features, like a 72 tooth ratchet, versus 48 of the current SK one I have.
By the way, a slightly off-topic question... I haven't worked on any soft fittings yet (terminating hard brake/clutch lines), but even they have torque ratings in my service manual. The correct procedure is to use a flarenut crowfoot wrench and the proper multiplier for the correct torque, right?
I picked up an SK 3/8" 10-100 ft/lbs wrench(~$65), and at the same time, picked up a KD tools one (~$55, with the same specs) for a friend. Lo and behold, they were identical, down to the serial number sequence. I picked them up at http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net
The only thing was the SK came with a case, and the KD didn't. And, the cases cost $10, so, the cost of the wrenches is identical.
Now, I'm hunting for a good inch pound wrench, without spending an obscene amount of money. SK (or the identical KD one) has one that goes from 25-250 inch pounds, which is about perfect.
While visiting SK's page a few weeks ago, I see that they have a new line of torque wrenches coming out which look suspiciously like the Facom wrenches. I'm waiting for the tool warehouse to being carrying them to see how much they cost compared to the current line.
It has some nice features, like a 72 tooth ratchet, versus 48 of the current SK one I have.
By the way, a slightly off-topic question... I haven't worked on any soft fittings yet (terminating hard brake/clutch lines), but even they have torque ratings in my service manual. The correct procedure is to use a flarenut crowfoot wrench and the proper multiplier for the correct torque, right?