Topping #16

69Stang

New member
Hello,



I am currently working on my Black 2002 F150, I don't have a PC (yet), so all of my work is done by hand.



The truck has several scratches on it that I would like to try and get rid of if possible. My plan is this:



1. wash and Clay (from Autopia)

2. DACP or Megs polisher I think it is #2

3. Megs #16

4. Top it with Pinnacle Soveriegn.(sp)



Does this seem to be ok, or is topping the #16 not worth it?

And will the DACP do any good by hand?



Thanks!



The Mustang has the engine removed right now, so it will get the full treatment soon with pics...



:confused:
 
I topped #16 with Souveran on a 2004 Rolls Royce Phantom. It had been about 4 weeks since I had waxed it with #16, but he told me he can't have enough wax on his car. Turned out real nice.



8782004_rr_phantom_souveran.jpg
 
69Stang said:
Hello,



I am currently working on my Black 2002 F150, I don't have a PC (yet), so all of my work is done by hand.



The truck has several scratches on it that I would like to try and get rid of if possible. My plan is this:



1. wash and Clay (from Autopia)

2. DACP or Megs polisher I think it is #2

3. Megs #16

4. Top it with Pinnacle Soveriegn.(sp)



Does this seem to be ok, or is topping the #16 not worth it?

And will the DACP do any good by hand?



Thanks!



The Mustang has the engine removed right now, so it will get the full treatment soon with pics...



:confused:



DACP is made for application by a PC and #2 is made for a rotary buffer. They don't break down by hand.



I think you would be better served using MPPC followed by #81. For the final coat I'd do NXT x2 and top with #16 or #26.
 
jfelbab said:
DACP is made for application by a PC and #2 is made for a rotary buffer. They don't break down by hand.



I think you would be better served using MPPC followed by #81. For the final coat I'd do NXT x2 and top with #16 or #26.



Thanks for the advice, I was afraid of that. I guess I better get a PC and quit worrying about it.



Scottwax,



That Rolls sure looks nice. You answered my questions.



Thanks again
 
jfelbab said:
DACP is made for application by a PC and #2 is made for a rotary buffer. They don't break down by hand.



I think you would be better served using MPPC followed by #81. For the final coat I'd do NXT x2 and top with #16 or #26.



DACP does break down by hand and hand application is okay according to the product label. Even Mike Phillips of Meguiars will agree that you can break down DACP by hand, especially after I showed him in person.



#2 on the other hand is a rotary only product and I would agree it won't break down properly by hand. Neither will #84 Power Compound or #85 Diamond Cut.
 
Scottwax said:
DACP does break down by hand and hand application is okay according to the product label. Even Mike Phillips of Meguiars will agree that you can break down DACP by hand, especially after I showed him in person.



#2 on the other hand is a rotary only product and I would agree it won't break down properly by hand. Neither will #84 Power Compound or #85 Diamond Cut.



Scottwax,



You are right, I misspoke. Then again, IIRC, you are probably one of the few here with the strength to work #2 by hand as well. :bow
 
Jim-I've tried working #2 by hand and I still got minor surface marring that DACP took care of. After that, I stuck with DACP!
 
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