Tomorrow is Me and PC vs. Swirl Marks

R

Rudamous

New member
Okay so now is the time. It is suppose to be up in the high 60s tomorrow here and not raining so it is time for me to crank up the new PC and pads I recieved from santa! I have factory swirl marks on my brand 04 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V. I have heard that nissan cheaped out on the paint on these cars and I really just want to get the swirls out and have some clearcoat left. Here is my plan and I just wanted some people to review it because due to how bad I hear that paint is I really don't want to risk harming it bad. Here's the plan:



Wash - NXT Car Wash

Clay - Sonus Clay

Polish - Megs DACP (#83)

Megs Swirl Mark Remover (#9) to remove micro marring

Wax - Klasse AIO, let cure overnight in garage

Klasse SG, let cure overnight again or as long as I can. Then maybe add another coat the next weekend or something.



My questions are that:

1.Do you guys think #83 would be to harsh on my Nissan clearcoat or are people just scaring me telling me I'm about to rip off my paint.

2.If #83 is okay to us would #9 be okay to remove micromarring?

(No I can't get my hands on any #80. I believe however there is a place locally that carries some 3M products if #9 isn't enough or I can get any other sort of polish advance, autozone, pepboys, wal-mart, etc. would happen to carry)
 
I am not an expert as many here on this board but at least I have used the #83 / #9 combo.



In general, since swirl removal involves abrasives it does "polish" the clear coat and as such impacts the clear coat thickness. Although I suppose you can damage it, I have not heard nor have I, a novice, been able to do with a PC.



More important: You should start less agressive and get more agressive only if required. In a bad area, try #9 with a polishing pad first. If that doesn't cut it then go up to #83 and a polishing pad then to #83 and a cutting pad. I have only had to use #83 and a cutting pad once and that was for a farly severe situation
 
Well I can only comment on the AIO and SG because I use that.. AIO should be a wipe on wipe off product i really haven't heard of anyone letting it sit on the car and I have followed up with SG right after a few times now and have not seen adverse effects. The sg can sit but I like the wowo for that to because I like to use my car..



Patrick
 
holland_patrick said:
AIO should be a wipe on wipe off product i really haven't heard of anyone letting it sit on the car

Click to expand...





AIO is not a wipe on wipe off product. AIO is a work in wipe off product. It needs to be worked into your paint to clean it and create a good base for SG. You don't let AIO dry on the paint but it's not wipe on wipe off like a wax. Also no need to let AIO cure for 24 hrs, just go straight to SG.



Always use the least abrasive method to get the job done. You might want to try just #9 and see if it works for you than move up if need be.





If the swirls are difficult to remove Megs #83 followed by #9 should do the trick. You might need to do several applications of #83 to get everything out. Than follow with #9 and then AIO.
 
your right I'm sorry i wasn't correct when i said wowo I just thought when your using a cleaner you would naterally work it in the wipe it off so i guees i should have said



wiwo
 
I used a 3M RC PI-II on a 02 Nissan sentra followed by 1Z PP with a Pinnacle topper..:bounce removed about 70% of the scratches and all of the swirls were gone with the wind.
 
Okay so this morning I got up around 10. Went to pick up a friend and drop him off. Got some chickfila then I got cracking. Day started off bad. I washed car but then the dang sun started to dry it so I dried as fast as I could with the new Sonus WW which worked good. Then I clayed the hood and brought the car into the garage.



I got the PC with green pad and applied the #9 Swirl mark remover. I worked that in good and buffed off with difficulty. I actually had to use some QD to help me get the polish off. Rolled car into the sun...I could tell almost no difference at all.

I figured it is time to me up to the #83 DACP. I worked that in buffed off then pulled out. Looked better. So I did it again this time and worked it out longer untill it started to "dust". Came off fairly easy. Now the swirl marks look as though they arent bad but I have a hazy buffer marks which I plan to go get off next and check it out but before I take a step down I have a problem.

The problem is that I have spots on my hood still that look attrocious. I can barley even look for swirls with the spots. The spots were there before but I figured they were just acid etching/water spots or something of that nature that would come off. Why are these not coming out even when working in the DACP good? Here is a picture of the spots of which I am talking about.



http://www.villagephotos.com/pubgallery.asp?id_=918904



The only area I was working on was the top left of hood. The center that is white it where the polish was dusting.
 
I can't really tell from the picture what that is. It could be etched water spots. If it is etched water spots they are probably much deeper than your swirls and will require more applications of DACP to remove. They may be too deep to remove with a PC and will require a rotary. Depending how long they have been there they might be to deep to remove even with the rotary.
 
Rudamous said:
My car is only like 3 months old since I purchased.
Click to expand...



It doesn't take long to etch paint with hard water. Did your car get hit with a sprinkler and sit in the sun for a while? Do you get much acid rain were you are? How long did it sit on the dealers lot before purchase? Those guys like to wash and let it dry in the sun. Could be anything like that.
 
Ok let's see I live in the NE and have a brother in law in FL and I know Ckick-a-fil is in FL and I know they use recyled water to water thier lawns down there so i'm guess you got hit with a sprinkler.. in fl and the sun baked ya.. Now Once again i'm not expert but I think some sorta vinager bath is in order?? am I wrong??



Patrick
 
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