To Rotary... Or Not to Rotary

TroyScherer

TroyScherer

Ummm.... Ya.....
I have been using my PCxp for almost 3 years now. In the past I have primarily done my own vehicles but in the last 2 years I began to do others on the side for customers. I have been contemplating upgrading to a rotary for a while now but am not sure if I need to, due to new tech for DA appliction. If I do upgrade I have my eye on the Flex PE14-2-150. So what is everyones opinon? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks
 
Im a firm believer in a rotary but only if your comfortable running one. I use it for compounding then use a DA for everything else. Up until last year I was a rotary only guy and never had any problems, but I think using them in conjunction with a DA will give you the best results.
 
mrclean81 said:
Im a firm believer in a rotary but only if your comfortable running one. I use it for compounding then use a DA for everything else. Up until last year I was a rotary only guy and never had any problems, but I think using them in conjunction with a DA will give you the best results.
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I do the exact same thing.

I know how to fully do the job with a rotary but that is what I learned to do corrections with. There is a learning curve from pc use and greater chance of error/damage. The aggression scale changes with pad and compound/polish steps also.

I am currently doing a full wet sanding correction with the Megs microfiber system. I can say it's not as fast but I believe it is safer on unknown paint thickness. It will also be a great system for someone new to correcting paint. Furthermore it would be a great follow up after compounding. I like the 2 pad 2 polish set up. The kit comes with everything you need to get started.
I haven't tried using other polishes with the system.

I mostly do repainted show cars that have shrunk or died back. There is a difference based on paint used from OEM.

I would like to try this system on an OEM finish to further gauge it's speed with no wet sanding involved.
The results have been great with just the first step just slower. I would definitely use this on a show car that needs no serious correction.
 
I've found less and less need for a rotary. Having said that, a rotary can't be beat for leveling paint.

Question is, have you run into situations you have not been able to handle with your DA? I would go with the new tech for your DA first and I'm betting you would be happy with those results without having to buy a rotary. Especially an expensive one like the FLEX.
 
ArmstrongDetailing said:
I've found less and less need for a rotary. Having said that, a rotary can't be beat for leveling paint.

Question is, have you run into situations you have not been able to handle with your DA? I would go with the new tech for your DA first and I'm betting you would be happy with those results without having to buy a rotary. Especially an expensive one like the FLEX.
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A suggestion was made for Dynabrade Rotary. They are suppose to be work horses with great torque.

Link: Dynabrade AbrasivEdge - Buy Abrasive Belts, Sanding Discs, Flap Wheels, Wire Wheels, Grinding Wheels, Air Tools, Dynabrade Tools, and More Online!
 
I have owned several DA, PC7424. Flex....used those for a couple of years, decided to go Rotary......to me a Rotary blows them all away, Jeweling the paint with a Rotary will blow you away, leveling the paint it is much, much faster....to me and allot of others have agreed a Rotary provides a real deep gloss and almost a different shine than a DA........I have spent many Days and hours using a Rotary ( Makita 9227) I bought a used car ( 1990 Honda Accord ) just to learn the rotary...intentionally burned the paint so that I know what speed that it can happen at......I now am very comfortable with a Rotary and actually can finish down with a Rotary ( which takes allot of practice) still use the PC for applying wax and sealants, use the brushes for carpet cleaning and floor mats........I knew that most of the pros used a Rotary and I had to step up to that level.........get it, I know you will love it when you are comfortable with....I have no regrets and have never looked back !!
 
I have no experience with that rotary. To be honest, I haven't used the FLEX rotary either. I just can't imagine it being that much better to justify the added cost.

"A work horse with great torque" would not be my leading criteria for a rotary polisher unless I was going to be grinding off dead gelcoat on abused boats or RVs. A good smooth start and well balanced feel is what I would look for. Makita and Dewalt have both satisfied me with those features. I'm not saying the Dynabrade doesn't have those features but that's what I would look for.
 
It depends on the hardness of the paint you work with often. If you deal with hard paints like Audi or new Mercedes ceramic paints, even old GM clear, a rotary is an extremely handy tool. It still took me 2 hours to jewel the hood of my Audi that had ever so slight micromarring with a rotary, so I would never be without one.
 
My two cars are an Acura and a Jetta. I have found the Jetta paint to be fairly hard and that is one reason for considering the upgrade. It was also suggested to me to consider the Flex 3401. Thoughts.....
 
The Jetta paint is likely the same as Audi so you'll probably need at least the amount of "oomph" the Flex provides
 
No doubt that rotary can do things a random orbital cannot, but they are more risky, as you obviously know. Damaging your own paint is bad enough, but if you damage someone elses, you're in for trouble. Last year, some moron got some terrible overspray on my Mercedes that I could not move with the PC. I picked up a Cyclo and I was amazed at its versatility and power. IMO, the single speed is not an issue. Now, I do my paint correction with the Cyclo and glazing/waxing with the PC. The Cyclo is a nice step up from the PC, but with much less chance of mishap, IMO.
 
I started with a Porter Cable.....wanted something a little stronger but still safe so sold the Porter Cable and got the Cyclo. After a while I also wanted a rotary so I purchase the DeWalt 849.

I feel the Cyclo and DeWalt are the perfect all around machines, they can do anything.
 
Well a little update.... Due to a "Sale Match" about 1-1/2 weeks ago and PAC closing I now have a Flex XC 3401 & FLEX PE14-2-150 on the way. :yay Ya I went a little overboard. But at the prices I got them for I can turn around and sell them for a profit if I don't like them. ;)
 
rotary man 4 life right here. been using a dewalt dw849 for all my career (close to 15 years now.) i had to send out my dewalt for a repair & on short notice i picked up a makita 9227c. i feel bad bc ive been a loyal dewalt guy for all of these years but man!...i am loving my makita.
i got my dewalt back & had the gasket changed & its alot quieter now but guess what,,i havent used it =(
i do want the new dewalt smaller rotary. i just love the durability of the machines. ive never really had an issue with them. i think mines an 06. i get free service so i figured instead of getting a new one i might as well send it out.
anyways, flex is just not for me. the head gets super hot & they are not durable at all.
as far as the PC, i hate it. i had one to try it out & got so frustrated with the machine that i slammed it to the ground till the head fell off! weeeeeeeee i tossed it about 20 ft in the air a few times, took out some anger & had a good laugh over it.
rotary all the way for me.

ps i have to admit, even thought im so used to the heavy weight of the dewalt dw849, from using it every day, all day & night my left arm started to bother me. i would never admit an injury to my customers but honestly, my left elbow, left wrist & hands started to bother me all the time. i use my right hand to guide the machine, left hand holds the haldle. i like to cradle the top of the machine sometimes & get more controll.

thanks to the makita my arms feel alot better, less sore & well i said it before...i am loving my makita but im still going to get the new smaller dewalt for the weight reduction. i put the dw849 old skool machine on the side & will only use it for removing wetsanding scratches & for when i get a car that needs a really heavy correction!

i do hate the slow start & find it super annoying but whatever.

glad to give you guys my honest feedback based on my many years of experience in the game!

bye for now.........
 
Perhaps, Andrew, if you were to actually TRY a PC -- meaning give it an honest fair shake and bother attempting to learn proper DA technique, you might actually understand why so many of us use them and get excellent results with them. Diversifying your skillset would only serve to further improve your skills as a detailer....
 
Shiny Lil Detlr said:
Perhaps, Andrew, if you were to actually TRY a PC -- meaning give it an honest fair shake and bother attempting to learn proper DA technique, you might actually understand why so many of us use them and get excellent results with them. Diversifying your skillset would only serve to further improve your skills as a detailer....
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i gave it an honest run for a few months but it wasnt for me. im not interested in buying another one. probably the ones that learned on a PC would argue this but i leared on the dewalt dw849 when i was in the body shop.

PC for you but no PC for me.
 
Great info - I need a rotary to get some super hard gelcoat to gloss. So I bought a FLEX-L3403VRG - FLEX L3403 VRG Lightweight Circular. It came with a LC backing plate and the green flat pad - I added a white pad to the order. For light/med oxidation polishing on gelcoat, do I need any other pads? I use a white aluma compound called AQUA BUFF - great stuff...I almost got it done with a DA and this stuff, but not quite...
 
glen e said:
Great info - I need a rotary to get some super hard gelcoat to gloss. So I bought a FLEX-L3403VRG - FLEX L3403 VRG Lightweight Circular. It came with a LC backing plate and the green flat pad - I added a white pad to the order. For light/med oxidation polishing on gelcoat, do I need any other pads? I use a white aluma compound called AQUA BUFF - great stuff...I almost got it done with a DA and this stuff, but not quite...
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If you are removing light to medium oxidation you might want to consider one of the milder wool pads, such as Lake Country Purple Wool pad. It is more aggressive than foams, but not much more aggressive. The big benefit is that the added surface area of the wool will help it cut through the oxidation a little faster with a little less loading (gumming up). Make sure to clean the fibers frequently with a pad brush though.
 
Todd Helme said:
If you are removing light to medium oxidation you might want to consider one of the milder wool pads, such as Lake Country Purple Wool pad. It is more aggressive than foams, but not much more aggressive. The big benefit is that the added surface area of the wool will help it cut through the oxidation a little faster with a little less loading (gumming up). Make sure to clean the fibers frequently with a pad brush though.
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done - thx
 
I can vouch for the Rotary and the Lake Country Purple Foam Wool Pads. Used my Makita 9227c on a Cessna last year that had severely oxidized Urethane paint - custom painted colors as well.
Meguiars 105 and the Purple Foam Wool Pads took care of the paint - not as perfect as the vehicles that come through my place, but they are are not painted in airplane paint either.
Finished with Meguiars 205, sealed with Menzerna Powerlock, and the Client was stunned.
Would have never been able to do this with any version of DA, Random Orbital, Forced Orbital machine, would have died trying. :)

I still like to use a Rotary for all my correction work, and finish with a Flex 3401VRG if its easy and use same machine for LSP application, or by hand.

I will always pick up the Rotary first and figure out how to use it to the best of its abilities.

Dan F
 
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