To All Who Apply AIO After Polish

J

jgatuslao

New member
I see a lot of Click and Brags' processes and quite a few apply AIO, such as KAIO, ZAIO or OPS after polishing. Do you apply AIO after polishing to remove marring left by the polish? I always see application of a wax or sealant after the AIO so I don't think applying AIO as LSP is the reason.



To those who apply AIO after polish, why do you do this? Please explain. Thanks.
 
In my personal experience I use AIO post polishing because it gives red and black especially a deeper glow.
 
jgatuslao said:
But don't some AIO's have polishing oils in them?
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yes some have abrasives for polishing(prime strong), but most are used to chemicaly clean the surface of the paint. as others said, to make the surface squeeky clean for the lsp.



:waxing:
 
Sometimes if I am in a rush, I will use Meguiar's 83 via the rotary, then follow that up with Meguiar's 66 (AIO) via either the PC or rotary. I do this because the 66 will remove any micromarring left from the 83, and it is faster than following with a finishing polish because you can work the 66 over a 2'x2' section, it breaks down very quickly, and you don't have to wipe one section off before moving to the next. This keeps me from having to keep stopping after each section, sitting the machine down, wiping, firing the machine back up, etc... Once you have applied 66 to the entire car, it wipes off very easily, and is then LSP ready.
 
The reason I'm asking is that I can't seem to remove micromarring on my black 06 Lexus GS on the upper sides of the car. My process after wash and clay was Pink Moose via flex and LC white pad, Wolfgang sealant then S100. I still see marring. Then I applied OP with white pad. Marring is still there.



In the past, I've been successful removing marring with Megs 66 but wanted to skip this step, hoping that Pink Moose or OP would remove it. I like the wetness a glaze offers and I'm thinking that applying Megs 66 would remove the glaze. I just can't seem to accept the fact that the "mooses" or OP can't remove marring but an AIO can.



I may have to revisit my technique. There's gotta be something wrong with it.



Could it also be the Lexus paint? I sneeze and it mars.
 
weekendwarrior said:
Sometimes if I am in a rush, I will use Meguiar's 83 via the rotary, then follow that up with Meguiar's 66 (AIO) via either the PC or rotary. I do this because the 66 will remove any micromarring left from the 83, and it is faster than following with a finishing polish because you can work the 66 over a 2'x2' section, it breaks down very quickly, and you don't have to wipe one section off before moving to the next. This keeps me from having to keep stopping after each section, sitting the machine down, wiping, firing the machine back up, etc... Once you have applied 66 to the entire car, it wipes off very easily, and is then LSP ready.
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I could be off on this, but most AIO's are sealant based while 66 is a carnuaba blend. 6 has a lot of filling property, and most sealants will not bond on top of it. While it is similar to most common AIO's, I don't know if I would call it a true one.
 
jgatuslao said:
The reason I'm asking is that I can't seem to remove micromarring on my black 06 Lexus GS on the upper sides of the car. My process after wash and clay was Pink Moose via flex and LC white pad, Wolfgang sealant then S100. I still see marring. Then I applied OP with white pad. Marring is still there.



In the past, I've been successful removing marring with Megs 66 .. I just can't seem to accept the fact that the "mooses" or OP can't remove marring but an AIO can.



I may have to revisit my technique. There's gotta be something wrong with it.



Could it also be the Lexus paint? I sneeze and it mars.
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Note that I'm not familiar with the paint on your Lexus.



I agree with TH0001, that products like #66 might conceal marring, leading somebody to think it was (actually/mechanically) removed. Perhaps that's what happened.



I've never been able to remove any marring on anything with KAIO, I just use it as a paint cleaner before applying KSG (or perhaps another LSP).



I think you need to figure out whether the marring is *old* marring that you didn't remove by your polishing, or *new* (micro?) marring *from* the polishing. You probably need to either a) polish more thoroughly and/or b) use a milder final finishing polish. IMO/IME OP/white isn't really all *that* mild of a combo when it comes to the final polish; I use a much milder combo on that for the final passes on hard Audi clear.
 
Is it normal though for a polish like OP on white pad to leave marring on black paint? I tried OP on my red SUV and the finish was LSP ready after polishing. I guess I have to try a finer polish.



I tried OP on a blue and black pad as I've heard that OP is very versatile polish depending on the pads used. Marring was still there.
 
It sounds like the Lexus paint is as bad as my RAV4's black paint. Shout "boo" at it and it marrs.



I had a terrible time trying to remove micro-marring from my corrective polishing a year ago. I tried all my finishing polishes and *they* left micro-marring. I'd never come across a paint so scratch sensitive.



I ended up finding my solution in SRP. It's polishes are so mild, yet effective, that they removed all the marring without re-introducing their own.



That's one big plus about SRP...the 'cleaner' part of cleaner/wax is mechanical, not just chemical. A very good AIO.



Another one to consider is ColorX which sounds similar to SRP in containing mechanical polishes a bit milder than #66.
 
Alfisti said:
...I ended up finding my solution in SRP. It's polishes are so mild, yet effective, that they removed all the marring without re-introducing their own.



That's one big plus about SRP...the 'cleaner' part of cleaner/wax is mechanical, not just chemical. A very good AIO..
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Yeah, AutoGlym's SRP is very good stuff :xyxthumbs I can easily imagine the almost negligible abrasives being *just* enough for some applications.
 
TH0001 said:
I could be off on this, but most AIO's are sealant based while 66 is a carnuaba blend. 6 has a lot of filling property, and most sealants will not bond on top of it. While it is similar to most common AIO's, I don't know if I would call it a true one.
Click to expand...



I have never had a problem getting any Meguiar's sealants to bond on top of the 66. I only follow the 83 with the 66 when I intend to use a Meguiar's LSP afterwards. Just to clarify, a lot of times after I polish the first 2'x2' seection with the 66, I will do an IPA wipedown to make sure that the product did in fact remove any micromarring (not just cover it up) before continuing on. If it appears that it did in fact correct to the point of being LSP ready, I will then reapply the 66 to that section, and continue on with the rest of the vehicle. Even doing the check on the 66, I am able to do a detail with the 83 and 66 faster than using a compound followed by a finishing polish.



My preferred method of detailing is to do a 2 step polishing with SIP and 106ff or with 83 followed by 80, but again, I find the 83 followed by 66 to be faster when I only have a smaller window of time to play with.
 
I often assume much of the use of AIO (esp. Klasses) on this board is from people mis-understanding it rather then it being super benefical. Same with people applying glazes and more recently i have seen people going back to the old mistake of layering nubas over sealants with no cure time.



So often 5 mins using the search option here to check your process can save you 20+ mins applying needless products.



It is abrasive free and will leave the surface no cleaner then after a good polish (oil free finish). It will deminishes the work of oil based glazes. They cannot get to the paintwork as the AIO seals the paint, and most of the oils will get wiped away as they will only fill minor gaps in the AIO surface.



One guy the other day had finished of with #80 and put down a wax. Between which he layed KAIO. I would have prefered to have the finishing oil-glaze effect from #80 before my wax.



Also, when i apply Zaino, as long as its after a non oily polish i dont bother the ZAIO, even if im doing just straight up Z5 or Z2 with no ZFX.



Geoff
 
jgatuslao said:
Do I have to order SRP online or is there a local distributor here in Phoenix, AZ?
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Hi!



I suspect you will have to order online in the USA. Its a British product that im led to believe is not fit for air transport to the USA so you will have to wait for ground shipping when its in the USA too.



Plenty of fillers, a really REALLY light abrasive that is not really for correction, but to make the chemical cleaning properties more effective. The chemical softens things unwanted items on the paintwork the chalky abrasive helps to remove them even more. Mainly b/c things that have added cleaning content like MF apps were not widly avalible in the UK. More so SRP has been around longer then MF has been in standard use!



Its difficult to guess its abrasive properties, unless you want to alchol wipe down after every application. It is a filler dream though! I think Autopia sell it, or they used to.



Geoff
 
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