Tips for new black 2009 Subaru Forester?

M

Matt_L

New member
Hey all I'm new here read this http://www.autopia.org/forum/welcom...ing-back-into-after-20-years.html#post1196287



I need some tips on my new black Forester that I 'accidentally' bought a couple weeks ago. I knew better at one time but forgot about the issues with black - but too late now. It looked so awesome though! I was spoiled by silver cars for 15+ years. So now I need to use some preventive medicine I think. I don't expect a perfect car all the time but if it can look good most of the time I will be happy.



Does anybody have any info on Subaru obsidian black? I have read some posts about it having some flake but mine looks solid. Is it soft or hard? Any tips for Subie paint?



I also need to do a full detail on my silver 2005 Saab 92x Aero which has been waxed once since new.



I haven't had much in the way of detailing tools and products and I am in the process of building up my stash too. I already bought some stuff to use but will post a list in another thread with a list so I can some feedback and fill in the gaps.



Thanks!
 
Matt_L- The most important thing will end up being how you wash; don't instill marring (scratches/swirls/etc.) then and you won't have to correct/hide them ;) Easier said than done though!



I dunno how Subie paint is these days, but it was nice and medium back when I had mine. Not so hard that it was a huge PIA to polish, not so soft that it'd mar when you touched it with anything.



Are you working by hand or by machine? I'll assume by hand, but the following advice goes for most PC/etc. newbies too.



My general recommendations are to use 1Z Paint Polish (1Z PP), or maybe their milder Metallic Polish with Wax (1ZMPwW), and then apply Collinite brand wax. This is an effective, user-friendly approach that looks good and lasts a long time.



The 1Z stuff is unusually well-suited to use by hand, and it's pretty easy learning-curve-wise: just keep working it until it's almost dry and if you overwork it to where it *is* dry it won't matter (which is *NOT* true of many other polishes).



The Collinite wax (either their 845 Insulator Wax liquid or their 476S Super Doublecoat paste) are easy enough to use and at least as durable as most sealants. They clean up very well when you wash and have great beading.



You can always get more complicated later, and if you have *VERY* soft paint you might want to go with that MPwW instead of the PP, but I'm confident that this 1Z-Collinite approach will work OK for you. I use a *lot* of different products, but that's almost always my "if you gotta ask..." recommendation.
 
Thanks Accumulator. I read your threads with interest when lurking especially your non marring wash methods. I am building up my supplies now. Pretty much starting from scratch. I'll post a list in a new thread now that my posts are posting!



I went to HF and bought some Collinitor 476 last week. I have some other various stuff including 2 1/4 full bottles of Megs 26 that are years old but still have good consistency. I have some Megs #20 sealant but I decided to use that on my silver car instead and use a gloss / wax combo on the Subie. I don't have any polish yet but I have worked with Megs 80 and 83. That was 20+ years ago though. I have some Poor Boys Black Hole that arrived today.



I have a UDM ordered and on the way. It's been so long since I detailed I didn't even know about those until I came here!



I (stupidly) applied some TW Ice and added some very fine scratches while doing so. I used a foam applicator and MF to remove. The Ice sucks!



The scratches are "micro marring" so not too bad and only a detailer type would notice in certain light. The vehicle is almost all swirl free. The dealer left the plastic on it on the lot and only did a light prep before I took delivery. They did it to save money but saved me some hassle I believe! I am thinking about waiting until spring to do a big correction from my Ice job and winter and just protect for now.



Here is what I am thinking about doing for winter:



Wash with Dawn (in the least marring way possible)

Blot dry with MF

Apply 2 coats PB Black Hole by hand

Apply 2 coats Collinator by hand



I am a bit apprehensive to jump on it with the UDM until I do my other car first and maybe a relative's neglected car for practice. I don't mind 'filling' a bit for now as long as it looks OK. It won't be looking all that great most of the time when they start salting the roads here anyway.



What do you think?
 
One other thing I am concerned about is marring while removing the gloss and wax like I did with the Ice. What is the best least marring thing to use to remove? I used a clean MF for the Ice. I did rub kind of hard because it was smearing. I used too much I think. I'll probably need to rub at least as heard to remove the wax though.
 
Accumulator said:
Are you working by hand or by machine? I'll assume by hand, but the following advice goes for most PC/etc. newbies too.



My general recommendations are to use 1Z Paint Polish (1Z PP), or maybe their milder Metallic Polish with Wax (1ZMPwW), and then apply Collinite brand wax. This is an effective, user-friendly approach that looks good and lasts a long time.



The 1Z stuff is unusually well-suited to use by hand, and it's pretty easy learning-curve-wise: just keep working it until it's almost dry and if you overwork it to where it *is* dry it won't matter (which is *NOT* true of many other polishes).
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Accumulator,



Since I have a UDM on the way I won't be applying any polish by hand. I may as well wait. Would you use that same polish with a machine? My main concern is it possibly being to aggressive. What I have is very fine scratches/swirls. I'm not sure if I should even polish this vehicle right now as I said above. Maybe just a glaze and wax for now? I think the products available have me more confused than the process!



If I did machine could I do something like? -



1. 1Z (or similar)?

2. Poor Boys Black Hole

3. Hand apply/remove Collinite



Or do I need something finer in between step one and two? What pads to use for each?



Also how do I ensure best I can that I don't add new marring when removing the wax? I don't want to undo my work.



Oh and if I want to glaze by machine how do I go about applying and removing it? I searched quite a bit and don't see much info on glazing and waxing by machine.



Thanks!
 
My story is almost the same :)

I have a black 2007 subaru legacy and found Autopia after realizing how much better I could do than with TW Ice.



I've accumulated some scratches from parking lot dings and from using my car to help move things so I know the pain.



I can't tell if its hard or soft paint...how do you tell?



To protect it, I plan to apply poli-seal and then >2 layers of Collinite this winter.

I'm thinking layers of "thick" wax might reduce damage. At least that's what I feel it could do.
 
I just did a winter detail on my wife's new spark silver 2009 Forester. Sorry if I missed it, but I don't think I saw any mention of claying the vehicle. Get yourself a nice clay bar and lube and hit it. I was shocked to see how much surface contamination existed on a brand new vehicle. After I clayed the Subie I hit it with a pass of Zaino AIO and clear seal. Wow! The next day I put a coat of the Collonite 476 on it and am quite happy. Good luck.
 
mikegeaney said:
I just did a winter detail on my wife's new spark silver 2009 Forester. Sorry if I missed it, but I don't think I saw any mention of claying the vehicle. Get yourself a nice clay bar and lube and hit it. I was shocked to see how much surface contamination existed on a brand new vehicle. After I clayed the Subie I hit it with a pass of Zaino AIO and clear seal. Wow! The next day I put a coat of the Collonite 476 on it and am quite happy. Good luck.
Click to expand...



Got pics?



The color I should have bought! :bawling:



I have been kicking myself since I signed on the line just two weeks ago but I don't want to just give up and have a car that gets progressively worse. It sucks cuz I should be excited about having a new car.
 
corrswitch said:
My story is almost the same :)

I have a black 2007 subaru legacy and found Autopia after realizing how much better I could do than with TW Ice.



I've accumulated some scratches from parking lot dings and from using my car to help move things so I know the pain.



I can't tell if its hard or soft paint...how do you tell?



To protect it, I plan to apply poli-seal and then >2 layers of Collinite this winter.

I'm thinking layers of "thick" wax might reduce damage. At least that's what I feel it could do.
Click to expand...



Yea I am hoping there is somewhat of a 'barrier' effect with the Collinite too. We will see I guess! Compare notes in the spring?
 
corrswitch- You won't really know how hard/soft the paint is until you try correcting it. Yeah, I know, bummer. I haven't heard any horror stories about recent Subie clear though, so I don't expect it to be at either extreme.



Matt_L- I don't *think* the 1Z PP will be too aggressive, but I just don't know. The MPwW will *NOT* be too aggressive, I'm confident about that. But I also don't know if it'll be aggressive enough to do any real correction.



The 1Z polishes leave stuff behind and I dunno if the Black Hole will be compatible with that. I'd skip the Black Hole if it were mine. I absolutely *WOULD* machine-polish it with something though. Don't worry, you won't do any damage, especially if you use the MPwW. The PP is also safe as long as you work it long enough to break down the abrasives. But I'm starting to think you'd be happier erring on the side of caution/too-gentle and using the MPwW. You could always get more aggressive later if you find it necessary. The MPwW is sorta like a pro-quality cleaner-wax (and I mean that in a good way) and would be a piece of cake to use with the UDM.



The ZAIO that corrswitch used with such success is, IM(limited)E more aggressive than the MPwW and not much milder than the PP. I was kinda surprised how aggressive the ZAIO is, much more so than KAIO....Hmmm...I dunno...I'd buy both 1z polishes and use first the PP then the MPwW if it were mine. For that matter, the ZAIO is good stuff too and would work fine before the Collinite. Not like there's only one right answer ;)



To avoid marring when using these products, first make sure your application/buffing media are soft enough. I'd test 'em on the data side of a CD...if they don't scratch that they shouldn't scratch your Subie clear.



Be sure to work any abrasive products long enough to break them down; this usually means working them until they're almost dry. But again, with 1z stuff longer is better and you don't need to really worry about overworking those.



When buffing off the wax, you shouldn't have problems with marring if everything stays clean (no abrasive dust floating around) and your buffing media is soft enough. Try fogging the surface being buffed with your breath, the little bit of moisture makes things a little easier.
 
Thanks.



I already have the Black Hole in hand so I may as well try it now. I figured eventually I need to buy something to use so I ordered that and it arrived overnight which was surprising! I think the only thing I am missing right now is a polish so I should get something that will compliment the Black Hole and Collinite....if that is possible. I thought after that fact that maybe I should have bought the Poor Boys polish too.



The 1z sounds great from a user friendly aspect but sounds like it could be somewhat limiting for my long term needs. I think probably what I need is more of a pure polish type of product for that step.



Something just tells me I should do polish-glaze-wax. Just a gut feeling though not based on any facts.



I have been kind of in a hurry to get product because it's starting to get too cold here to work on the vehicles. I need to do something soon or wait until spring. UDM should be here tomorrow just in time for a rainy weekend :-(



I tried taking some photos to post but they didn't show anything. So either the lighting wasn't right or the scratches aren't that bad and I'm just being OCD.
 
Matt_L- If you mean "pure polish" in the Meguiar's sense (no abrasives), I'd reconsider. I don't fine those products all that useful.



If you mean it in the "doesn't leave wax behind" sense, then yeah...that'd be compatible with whatever you want to use next. I *really* like the 1Z High Gloss polish, but it's pretty mild. I like it better than similar stuff from Menzerna, but that's just me.



If you want to buy something quickly, see if there's an autobody/paint supply place in your area. They'll have stuff from different manufacturers and will almost certainly have something that'll fit the bill.



Guess the big Q is "what's compatible with Black Hole?". If it's not really finicky you could buy something like Meg's #80, which is another mild, user-friendly product you'd do OK with. OR something like 3M Ultrafina or something from Presta (my local place has all sorts of stuff like this on the shelf).
 
Yea I mean a non (or low) filling type of polish...if that exists. I am thinking polish, then glaze IF I want to and then wax.



It seems like 'filling' is frowned upon here from what I have been reading but if I am doing it myself and my car looks good what does it matter? I will be doing it myself again sooner than I would if I hired somebody and I am doing it so I don't need to feel like I am getting "my moneys worth". Make sense or no?



I am leaning towards the Megs #80. I have used that 20 years ago and liked it (I think :-) I remember Megs stuff being pretty compatible with most stuff but back then there wasn't as much to choose from to be compatible with.



We have a great detail supply place right down the street. I'll check it out.
 
Matt_L said:
Yea I mean a non (or low) filling type of polish...if that exists. I am thinking polish, then glaze IF I want to and then wax...
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I'd worry less about filling and just make sure it's compatible with the subsequent steps.



It seems like 'filling' is frowned upon here from what I have been reading but if I am doing it myself and my car looks good what does it matter? I will be doing it myself again sooner than I would if I hired somebody and I am doing it so I don't need to feel like I am getting "my moneys worth". Make sense or no?
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Yeah...what works for *YOU* is what matters. If concealing some flaws satisfies you then I sure wouldn't care what some of the "purists" (scare-quotes intentional) around here think. As Mike Phillips from Meguiar's has put it: "does the car *look* better? That's what counts."



Just note that most of the concealing/filling products don't really hide all that much anyhow.



I am leaning towards the Megs #80. I have used that 20 years ago and liked it ..We have a great detail supply place right down the street. I'll check it out.
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That sounds like a good plan :xyxthumbs
 
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