Tips applying Blackfire Sealant

It works great but it has a base that is not easily cleaned with soap and water.

You will not be able to get the pad completely clean of the Blackfire Wet Diamond.

Set aside a pad that you will only use for Blackfire.

That is why every detailer should have Dawn power dissolver(walmart always has it on the cheap) will break down ANY solvent or oil in emulsion product!!. BTW just got my Blackfire yesterday and will use it on Tuesday for the LSP on a buddys mustang(grabber blue) and Dave(streetdreams) used it last night on his black Audi A5 and says the look was better than Jetseal 109 at 1:30 am east coast time!!! we were texting back in forth............
 
That is why every detailer should have Dawn power dissolver(walmart always has it on the cheap) will break down ANY solvent or oil in emulsion product!!. BTW just got my Blackfire yesterday and will use it on Tuesday for the LSP on a buddys mustang(grabber blue) and Dave(streetdreams) used it last night on his black Audi A5 and says the look was better than Jetseal 109 at 1:30 am east coast time!!! we were texting back in forth............

Your going to love this stuff! Im going to pick up a tub of Midnight sun next week to see what the fuss is about the "ice over fire" combo. ;)
 
I'm pretty excited to try Blackfire. Just traded for a sample with another TID member. If all goes well, I hope to post some impressions next week.
 
I'm pretty excited to try Blackfire. Just traded for a sample with another TID member. If all goes well, I hope to post some impressions next week.

Hey FJF, haven't seen you around in a little bit. Maybe I'm blind or your busy, either ways, how have you been?!
 
Hey FJF, haven't seen you around in a little bit. Maybe I'm blind or your busy, either ways, how have you been?!

It's genuinely nice to know someone noticed. I got hit with a big project, which thankfully is over. Now I'm free to bum around for a little while and play with cars. Most recently, just the other day, I was astonished to find a thread about myself on DB. Five pages of being called an idiot, because I dared to start and support an OTC product discussion on an automotive forum. I guess trying to help folks who'd never spend more than the bare minimum isn't a good thing. At least I got a chance to reply.
 
All right I tried my Blackfire, and over Jetseal 109 for crying out loud and it DID make the paint more vivid and smooth. I have a 09 Mustang in the shop now for show prep so I will see how it goes without another sealant in the way.

Two 997 Turbos starting Wednesday thru Saturday, the first one is a darker red nissan color an the second one is white which I really want to see how slick and glossy it makes that finish.
 
I played around with my technique a little yesterday on an NSX I was working on. This time around I applied it to the entire car via DA and let it sit for roughly 20 minutes. I was afraid this would make it more difficult to remove, but IMO its exaclty the opposite. Instead of being a little greasy it set up a little better making for a more "dry" removal, which I really liked! Ive noticed letting it cure for several hours, or overnight most definitely makes a considerable difference in gloss and slickness. I generally try to get the first coat on before calling it a night, then apply a second coat the next morning. So far, only the best results Ive seen! Wait till you guys see the gloss on this Spa Yellow NSX I just finished!
 
I remember the first time I used Wet Diamond (like over 3 years ago, I've been using it probably longer than anyone on this board :D) I applied to 3 or 4 panels and came back and removed, it was very greasy and smeary. Didn't give it enough time to set up properly.

Now I know to apply to the whole car and come back and remove, when you do this it is pretty much the easiest LSP you can imagine.
 
I remember the first time I used Wet Diamond (like over 3 years ago, I've been using it probably longer than anyone on this board :D) I applied to 3 or 4 panels and came back and removed, it was very greasy and smeary. Didn't give it enough time to set up properly.

Now I know to apply to the whole car and come back and remove, when you do this it is pretty much the easiest LSP you can imagine.

100% agree!
 
Don't the directions on the bottle say to let it dry to a haze anyway? :confused:

True ... but there has been some conflicting advice given on this forum about the application of Wet Diamond. People are trying different ways to apply it and apparently getting good results whether the sealant is removed immediately or removed after it has hazed. For example, on June 11th Todd wrote:

Keep in mind that Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant, like other acrylic polymer sealants, is designed to be applied and removed WET. However, like you guys, my preference is too let it dry before removal, but regardless of the technique you choose, you will still get the great slickness, look, and durabilty.

The only down side of choosing to let it dry is that you must make sure it is completely dry before removal. Depending on how thin you apply it and the enviroment, this will take 15 to 30 minutes on average.

Personally, I apply to the entire car, using either my Flex3041VRG or Porter Cable 7242 with a Lake Country Concours Gold pad. 2 little drops will cover at least 1/4 the car.

And then on August 1st Todd wrote:

Wet Diamond is designed to be completely easy to use...

You can let it haze until it is dry to the 'swipe test' and remove or

You can apply and remove it wet

Or in between...

Here is my experience with each method...

Haze... If you choose to let it dry to haze completely make sure to give it 30 to 45 minutes. This is not how the product was designed to work but it will. The touchy area is that once you have let it start to haze, it must haze completely or you might get very light 'shadows' or streaking in the paint.

Apply it wet and remove... This has become my favorite method. Apply it to a 'section' (roughly about 1/4 of the car) then remove immediately. Like other high quality acrylic sealants you will feel the surface increase in slickness as you wipe it off.

In between- This would be Angelo's method. Apply it to the whole car then remove. The only problem is that if you take a long time to apply it to the whole car or you have a large car it might start to haze. If it starts to haze you have entered the 'Haze' section. In this case just let it set up for another 20-30 minutes and your fine.

The polymers in Wet Diamond are sometimes referred to as German super polymers and it uses a very advanced delivery system. The polymers reach the surface of the paint almost immediately and begin to link almost instantly. This is why you can remove the product wet (what is gonna stick has stuck) with no degradation in durability, coating thickness, or looks.

I'm not picking on Todd here. I'm simply noting the absence of expert consensus about the best way to apply and remove Wet Diamond. I intend to apply Wet Diamond in late October or early November in preparation for winter. After reading this thread, I'm still confused about the best way to apply it. :confused: I guess I'll just follow the directions on the bottle and take my chances. :rolleyes:

Al
 
Don't the directions on the bottle say to let it dry to a haze anyway? :confused:

Here is the thing with the directions (which are correct by the way)...

Most people (i.e. the consumer) look to replace their existing process (and product) with a process that is similar but works better. Blackfire Wet Diamond is an incredible sealant, and for us (the forum guys) who like to experiment with different techniques and styles, it is a pleasure to use.

So in creating this amazing sealant you create a product that really doesn't care how it is applied or removed, the material that contacts the paint begins to bond almost instantly.

For the average customer of Wet Diamond (the larger number we sell vs. the small relative number that visit any forum) they want a great product that replaces and improves upon the previous product they used. Since we feel Wet Diamond is a large step up from just about anything you can buy in a store, we printed the directions that seemed the most familiar. Apply; Let Haze; Remove.

It is simple, familiar, and allows the product to be stand on it's own two-legs vs. a lot of hype.

Also this is not a knock on the general consumer, but a matter of demographics and numbers. Most people want a product that has great value and performs well; it has to be worth the cost: Regardless of whether you are a pro-detailer who wants something to show off their work or an enthusiast who wants a deep, slick, great protecting 'wax' for their car, BF WD seems to fit the bill all around.

So there is no dubious marketing and mystical techniques: You don't have apply it in a wet dress, standing on one leg, on the second full moon of the year. You don't have to wipe it in a cross hatch pattern, twisting the towel 12 degrees per angle above the equator and sprinkle it with pixie dust, and it isn't made by an imaginary man in a far away foreign land who mixed impossible numbers of an non-existent wax powder into.

If I had my druthers the directions would read like this: Apply to the car with an application that doesn't scratch the paint. Do your best to apply it thinly and consistently. Wipe it off whenever you want with a towel that doesn't scratch the paint.
 
If I had my druthers the directions would read like this: Apply to the car with an application that doesn't scratch the paint. Do your best to apply it thinly and consistently. Wipe it off whenever you want with a towel that doesn't scratch the paint.

That's good. That's what I do!:thumbup:
 
If I had my druthers the directions would read like this: Apply to the car with an application that doesn't scratch the paint. Do your best to apply it thinly and consistently. Wipe it off whenever you want with a towel that doesn't scratch the paint.


Haha! Even a newb like me can manage this! :biggrin:
 
LOL! Thanks for the clarification Todd. The first time I applied it I wiped it off wet. Then for kicks I read the bottle and tried it the traditional way, and like you said, it always works great!

I personally like going around the whole car and letting it dry simply because I don't like putting down the PC or applicator, and then grabbing a MF towel over an over. :D
 
I personally like going around the whole car and letting it dry simply because I don't like putting down the PC or applicator, and then grabbing a MF towel over an over. :D

This is how I got around to experimenting with longer wipe off periods. When I first got it I did a panel at a time, then a 1/3 of the car at a time, the the entire car at the same time..now Ive gone as far as doing the entire car and letting it sit for several minutes(up to 20) and not once has it gone bad on me. I actually prefer how it comes off after letting it sit for several minutes.
 
This is how I got around to experimenting with longer wipe off periods. When I first got it I did a panel at a time, then a 1/3 of the car at a time, the the entire car at the same time..now Ive gone as far as doing the entire car and letting it sit for several minutes(up to 20) and not once has it gone bad on me. I actually prefer how it comes off after letting it sit for several minutes.

Same here. I will usually do the windows while it dries. ;)
 
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