Time to give up the PC?

so do I need the black hole and the polish with carnuba with blue? I would start with polish with carnuba and then I could top it with black hole? Is the ppwc the best poilsh next to ssr?
 
so do I need the black hole and the polish with carnuba with blue? I would start with polish with carnuba and then I could top it with black hole? Is the ppwc the best poilsh next to ssr?

you can use the PwC blue, and top it with Black Hole, but you will need to put a wax or sealant over the Black Hole ;)
 
After dealing with Ronkh's black Beemer for the last few years we came to the conclusion that a different approach was needed ... we used Pro Polish with PC and or a Flex and the paint cleaned up much better than using a mechanical polish like the SSR's .. ;)

Steve can you elaborate a little?

I never really tend to use the PP.
 
so ProPolish would be a all in one depending on the pad white to polish and orange to cut and then I could top it with nattys? Will PP leave the paint wet looking like PwC?
 
Steve can you elaborate a little?

I never really tend to use the PP.

On certain soft paints that seem to not correct easily or scratch easily, Professional Polish can be adjusted by the aggressiveness of a pad to make correction work better.

Try it, you'll like it :D

Good stuff, chemical polish, no abrasives. Pad dependant

yeah what he said :rockon

so ProPolish would be a all in one depending on the pad white to polish and orange to cut and then I could top it with nattys? Will PP leave the paint wet looking like PwC?

Professional Polish is not an AIO , it has no protection. It leaves the paint squeaky clean and bright. Put some Black Hole and Natty's Blue and you have dripping wet :drool:
 
Thanks fro clearing that up^ So the heavier the cut pad the more abrasive it is.

I can't get my mind around what to use.
When would I use PP over say SSR1 or SSR2?
 
There's no question you can use your PC to correct your paint. Having said that, jet black paint is soft as butter whereas the metallic black is much harder. Detailing paint is all about finding the right pad/polish combo that will work on that paint. Every car is different. What will work on one jet black may not work on another. That is the frustrating/rewarding part is finding the combo that works for you on a particular car. M105/205 will remove darned near any imperfection and finish down very well. Use a variety of pads to see what will work on your paint.
 
Thanks fro clearing that up^ So the heavier the cut pad the more abrasive it is.

I can't get my mind around what to use.
When would I use PP over say SSR1 or SSR2?


on a soft (easily scratched) clear or a vehicle just needing cleaning and shine, I would go with Pro Polish (PP) . If there was marring and light swirls, then I'd go with either of the SSR's ;)
 
Is there a particular swirl you have identified that you have tried to correct but is still there? Or are you able to correct a given swirl, but then another one seems to be introduced?

I ask because if it's the former, that would mean you are not being aggressive enough, your clear coat is hard. If the latter, you are being too aggressive, your clear coat is soft.

What you are experiencing sounds exactly like what I have gone through w/ my BMW (using a PC and SSR2.5), which has hard clear coat.
 
just wash with car soap and then polish. nothing will be left after you polish ;)
:bigups:bigups I never use anything to remove wax or sealant before polishing.

If your polish is capable of removing scratches in the clear coat it sure as hell will remove wax.
Only reason to wash is to be sure no dirt is on the surface before polishing.
 
:bigups:bigups I never use anything to remove wax or sealant before polishing.

If your polish is capable of removing scratches in the clear coat it sure as hell will remove wax.
Only reason to wash is to be sure no dirt is on the surface before polishing.


exactly ;)
 
Try Megs 105 and experiment with the pads - try LC orange, white and red. Read up on the KBM and go for it.
 
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