Time for this noob to step up...

M

Mungo

New member
As with most who join here, before coming here I thought I knew alot about paint care. Boy, did I get a rude awakening! Thanks to all for the education. The search function is invaluable. there haven't been many questions that I've had that hasn't been asked and answered in the past. Hell, if I read this much in college Lord knows where I'd be today!



I've only waxed by hand and have done what I could to hide swirl marks but I am sick of the limited returns and rubber arms so I picked up a PC at Lowes a few weeks ago (thanks to you guys). I went ahead and ordered up some new stuff that I hadn't used before to give it a try. $250 later I am ready to go. I have always been a huge fan of Meg's and have used most of there hand cleaners, polishes and waxes. A couple of years ago I did the Zaino thing (Z5/ZFX/Z6/Z7 and so on) and was pretty happy with it but I loved the look that Meg's carnauba gave...until it rained. Enough rambling.



I have a black '05 Sierra Denali whose paint is in excellent condition save for some slight swirls/micro marring and the typical hate f@#%^&ng (pardon my french) that NE winters unleash on cars. Last month I gave it, all by hand:



Meg's gold carwash

clay

#9

2 coats of NXT (I only waited 12hrs for curing)

#26 liquid

Its been getting nearly daily QD treatments. In the garage of course as the neighbors think I needs meds.



Still looks great but in direct sunlight or in my garage under fluorescent lightning the marring kills me. The plan for tonight and tomorrow morning is the following:



dawn wash

spot clay (did 2100 mile ride down to myrtle beach a few weeks back)

Z7 wash

FPII with SFX white pad

z6/z2pro/zfx with SFX blue x 3 ( should I consider using the buffing bonnet?)

z8



I haven't used the PC nor FPII so I am hoping I get the hang of it quickly. There have been numerous threads about them so I think I know enough now its just getting acclimated. I have some IP but I don't think I will need that with my paint but I guess I will find out. I also have z5 but I hoping the FPII removes all the swirls/marring so that there is nothing to hide. Would layering z5 under the z2pro really provide any visual difference if I get rid of all surface imperfections?



Couple of questions before I end this rambling.

1. I think the z7 will suffice but should I consider an IPA wipe?

2. I have limited pads. I bought the SFX kit with an extra white polishing pad, if I have to wash one out and reuse, how quickly do they dry? My concern is if the FPII doesnt remove everything and I have to use the IP I would use my other polishing pad. Not brave enough let to use a cutting pad.



Thanks again for all the help. I'll post some before and after pics. I hope they make the autopia cut!
 
Welcome Mungo !



It seems you have your program lined up nicely. Looking forward to hearing how you do. Good luck !
 
Mungo said:


Couple of questions before I end this rambling.

1. I think the z7 will suffice but should I consider an IPA wipe?

2. I have limited pads. I bought the SFX kit with an extra white polishing pad, if I have to wash one out and reuse, how quickly do they dry? My concern is if the FPII doesnt remove everything and I have to use the IP I would use my other polishing pad. Not brave enough let to use a cutting pad.
Click to expand...

1. You should be ok with just the z7 wash.

2. From what I understand the Sonus pads are made by Lake Country. I have the Lake Country 7.5 pads and when I need to clean a pad during a detail I fill a 5 gallon bucket about half way with warm water and dawn. I let the pad sit a few minutes and then wring the pad out by hand. You should see the water get murky from the product comming out of the pad. I then dump out the water and refill with cold water from the hose and keep rinsing the pad out. I do this a few times. It's not going to get completely clean but it's better than nothing.



To dry I ring the pad out and then put the pad between two towels and sqweeze the water out. I try to get most of the water out this way. Then I put the pad on the PC and turn it on speed 5 to get the last bit of water out. This part makes a mess like a wet dog after a bath so make sure to do it in area you don't mind getting wet.
 
Mungo- Welcome to Autopia!



I recently did a black '05 Suburban (rental vehicle :rolleyes: ) so I'm sorta familiar with the paint GM uses on those.



IMO you'e gonna need something stronger than the FPII. I wouldn't switch to the FPII until things were virtually perfect (plan on lots of work with the IP).



If you're less than successful with the marring removal I'd stick with the Meg's routine instead of going to Zaino. The Z will allow every flaw to show.



IMO the Meg's "glaze and wax" look works well on this paint, especially when it's not perfect. I didn't have any problems in the rain, but then I was using #16 for my LSP.
 
Thanks krsjuan.



Accumulator said:
IMO you'e gonna need something stronger than the FPII. I wouldn't switch to the FPII until things were virtually perfect (plan on lots of work with the IP).
Click to expand...



Okay. I'll start with IP with a white pad and then FPII and white. I will try that and see what happens. If the IP and white doesnt work I guess my only option would be to try the yellow pad. Should I expect the IP to first dull the paint and then the FPII will buff out?



Do I have to worry about over working IP?
 
Mungo- I dunno, don't use IP. If you don't get an answer you might do a search. It gets discussed all the time.



But I have used FP (not FPII, but anyhow...) and I wouldn't expect it to do any correction.



Since IP/FPII are designed to work together, the general rule is to do the correcting with the more aggressive product and let the milder one fix any hazing that's left behind.
 
I'm hip deep here and I need a little help. I tried the FPII with a white pad (on 3.5ish) and while it did make the paint very glossy it just slightly reduced the swirls. So I went up to IP but started with a white pad knowing it would probably be a waste but just in case. No luck. I have just tried IP with the SFX yellow (on 3.5 and 4) and I am still seeing swirls and very small scratches.



Do I need to apply more pressure? I am giving just a little. Also, I'm not quite sure I have enough IP on the pad. I dont want to overload it but should the entire pad be covered with polish?



Thanks for the help.



As a side note, I LOVE the PC. Once I figure out how to get some results I will be thrilled!
 
I keep plenty of polish on the pad but not enough that it slings or otherwise makes a mess. You don't want any areas of the pad to be dry, it's the product that does the work.



Crank the speed up to 6 and apply some pressure. If you apply too much the PC will quit doing the "dual action" motion and just "jiggle".



FWIW, the only way *I* can remove marring with a PC is to use 4" pads. But most of my vehicles have hard paint.
 
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