Time for a rotary?

S

sixfiveoh

New member
Hey guys, first post here but I've been lurking for a while, I'm a member on a bunch of other car forums as well. Anyways, I figured I'd come to the experts with this question.



Well, I can't say I've been taking the best care of my paint recently, but after my body shop's "awesome" detail job with what appeared to have been a hedgehog as a washmitt, I feel it's time to take action.



I have the PC 7424 and Menzerna Intensive Polish, Menzerna Micro Polish and FMJ, but does it look like this just won't cut it? Here are some pics, I used a polarizer and edited it so that the imperfections stand out as much as possible:



swirls.JPG




swirls2.JPG




The last few times I polished my car with the PC, it seemed to do a good job, but just not PERFECT. Looking for results more along the lines of this, although I know he used a Makita for this job:



2654585520_51e9e927c1_b.jpg




My question, do you think it would be possible to achieve similar results with the products I have available?
 
I use a rotory now most of the time.. but i own the UDM. I guarantee that the UDM with SIP (menzerna's super intensive polish) would take care of your car in no time.

I'm suprised the IP didnt work with the PC.. Did u mention what pads u used?
 
I have not tried to use the PC yet on this job. I'm just wondering if you guys think it's even worth a shot, or if the current damage looks beyond PC territory, you're saying (hopefully) the PC could be the tool for this job?
 
mr.ikon said:
the 50/50 shot looks really good. i see no complaint there.
Click to expand...



The 50/50 is actually his goal target.



You might want to try some PFW with some SSR 2.5 or the Menzerna equivalent before you move onto the rotary. Maybe a lower profile cutting pad as well?
 
About how long should I wait to detail the car, as it was just in the body shop last Tuesday for paint on some panels. How long does it generally take to cure?
 
Check with the shop on the paint cure but i waite at least 30 days or more before i touch it. Light polishing would be ok on the new paint but nothing more and don't put a wax or sealant on the fresh paint a glaze is ok the paint still needs to gas out for awhile . you can do the rest of the car that wasn't painted.
 
IME a PC with 4 inch pads with a compound like 3m 3000 RC will remove quite a bit of defects. You'd have to use wool pads on a rotary to get better cutting ability.
 
Question is, even if a more agressive pad and polish combo where to work, how much longer would it take as compared to a rotary w/ a PFW or aggressive cutting pad?



Taking into consideration that you can usually use a larger pad that covers more surface area (i.e. 6.5" PFW on a rotary) versus (4" or so PFW on an orbital unit).



I was working on our '03 Corolla and RIDs seem impossible to remove in a timely fashion. I don't want to spend all my weekend when I could perform the same job or more with a rotary....
 
I asked the owner of the body shop yesterday how long I should wait to buff the car, and he responded with, "Oh, we already polished the car, you don't have to" :rolleyes:



I was like... yeahhhh thanks, but if I really wanted to how long should I wait, he responded with "10 days should be good" :confused:



Do I believe him?
 
sixfiveoh said:
I asked the owner of the body shop yesterday how long I should wait to buff the car, and he responded with, "Oh, we already polished the car, you don't have to" :rolleyes:



I was like... yeahhhh thanks, but if I really wanted to how long should I wait, he responded with "10 days should be good" :confused:



Do I believe him?
Click to expand...



you can polish the car whenever but no wax/sealant/LSP for 3 months



if it is a repaint it will be softer so you should not need a rotary(but if you want one...get one)
 
sixfiveoh said:
So the polishes are fine, but don't put on the FMJ?
Click to expand...



YES

also try a search as this new paint thing has been covered 50,000,000,000,000,001

times (yes that is an exact number ....I counted:o)
 
I was so impressed with how the 3.5" PFW pads worked on serious marring that I don't *think* you'd really *need* a rotary.



Note that once you do a major correction you shouldn't have to get very aggressive for a long, long time, so that rotary would just be sitting on the shelf (both of mine sit unused for months and months...maybe *years*).



Yeah, a rotary with it's bigger pads will do the serious work faster than an orbital with that little PFW one, but that wouldn't be *my* primary consideration. Besides the cost, there *are* risks with a rotary that simply don't exist with orbitals, and nobody ever got all :hairpull over holograms working with an orbital ;)
 
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