Thoughts on this procedure?

E

ET Awful

New member
I'm actually using basically the same procedure on three cars (minus the stronger swirl remover on two of them that are in a bit better shape). One is white, one dark burgundy, and one black. These are all things I'm just doing for friends who wouldn't do it for themselves (in return for free dinners and such) :). All products are Poor Boys (except the Gold Class wash obviously) because that's what I ended up with while shopping on line. There's so much out there that I just went with one that had a good rep and a good price (at least from the info I read here and on other forums).

Wash (Gold Class)
Clay
SSR 2.5
SSR 1
Pro Polish
PwC Blue
EX-P
Natty's Blue

Oh, and using Meguiars #40 for the trim.

Like I said for the two newer vehicles (the burgundy and the black), I'll eliminate the stronger swirl removing steps, but this is what I've come up with as a procedure. Is there anything that should be changed?

Other things I have available are some EX sealant instead of the EX-P, some NXT, a sample of FK1 Hi-Temp wax, and that's really about it, I can order more items if needed (maybe some regular PwC instead of the blue for the white vehicle?).

Yeah, I went all out when I started ordering stuff :). Since I'm only doing work for friends, I should have enough to last quite a while.
 
Process looks good. You might could cut out a step if you used either PwC or Pro Polish. It seems kind of redundant to use them both in the same detail, but that's just my opinion. I would probably skip the PwC since you are going to be using EX-P. You may want to try using the Pro Polish as a first step polish to clean any stuff off the paint and to give you a "fresh" look at what kind of marring you are looking at. It could help you decide to be/not be more aggressive.
 
JaredPointer said:
Process looks good. You might could cut out a step if you used either PwC or Pro Polish. It seems kind of redundant to use them both in the same detail, but that's just my opinion. I would probably skip the PwC since you are going to be using EX-P. You may want to try using the Pro Polish as a first step polish to clean any stuff off the paint and to give you a "fresh" look at what kind of marring you are looking at. It could help you decide to be/not be more aggressive.
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That sounds good. With the white one (a Toyota 4-Runner), it's tough to see the scratches and stuff (white paint is tough to see flaws in). I like the Pro Polish first idea.

Thanks!
 
I've used #40 on trim and tires and it doesn't last that long IMO. You'd be better off with Poorboys Trim Restorer or another product if you want a little durability.
 
budman3 said:
I've used #40 on trim and tires and it doesn't last that long IMO. You'd be better off with Poorboys Trim Restorer or another product if you want a little durability.
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Yeah, I've used it on my Element too, it just seems like a waste to not use it up before I spend more money.

Maybe I'll go ahead and order up some Trim Restorer. Question on that though, is that one of those lovely "a little goes a long way" products, or do you need quite a bit?

Thanks.
 
With Trim Restorer, a little definitely goes a long way. And it outlasts anything I have used before for exterior trim. A great product to have in your detailing arsenal.
 
89LXi said:
With Trim Restorer, a little definitely goes a long way. And it outlasts anything I have used before for exterior trim. A great product to have in your detailing arsenal.
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In that case, I'll go ahead and order it. I have a 15% discount from Auto Geek for registering on their forums, so I'll just use that now. (Lord how I hate paying for shipping though).

Edit: Ordered it just now.
 
ET Awful said:
Yeah, I've used it on my Element too, it just seems like a waste to not use it up before I spend more money.
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I don't like #40 for outside work but it is a great interior cleaner / protectant. It lasts for about a month on interior surfaces and has good cleaning ability with it as well. So if you're looking for an inteior protectant, then you already have one! and a good one at that.
 
ET Awful said:
Wash (Gold Class)
Clay
SSR 2.5
SSR 1
Pro Polish
PwC Blue
EX-P
Natty's Blue
Click to expand...
The SSR 1, Pro Polish. and PwC seem like more polish steps than you will need.
You can go right to your EX-P from SSR 1 without needing to use the Pro Polish or the PwC. Using them won't hurt anything, but is more work than necessary.
For the badly swirled vehicles:
Wash
Clay
SSR 2.5
SSR 1
EX-P
Natty's Blue
should give you good results

For those vehicles that don't have the swirl problem:
Wash
Clay
SSR 1
EX-P
Natty's Blue

Pro Polish is an excellent cleaner/polish and works good for oxidation and stains.
PwC is a polish and wax combination and makes a good one step if you need one.

Whenever you are in doubt about how a combination will work, try it on just one section before you do an entire vehicle and find out you didn't get the results you were looking for. It can save a lot of frustration.

Charles
 
Thanks Charles - much appreciated.

So would the Pro Polish be a good choice for removing existing wax? For instance, on one car that I'm doing, I had to throw a hasty coat of NXT on it last weekend due to a hardware failure (backing plate and the shaft on my new PC both stripped out and the pad/plate went flying, had to use the PC supplied white pad to throw some quick protectant on the car).

Would Pro Polish work well to remove the NXT and give me a clean start?
 
cwcad said:
ProPolish will be an excellent choice to get you a clean start.
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Would it be better to do it by hand or with a PC w/polishing pad (I'm guessing even a light cutting pad would be too much if all I'm doing is looking to clean off wax).
 
ET Awful said:
Would it be better to do it by hand or with a PC w/polishing pad (I'm guessing even a light cutting pad would be too much if all I'm doing is looking to clean off wax).
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IMO there a few products available that are not better facilitated by the use of a PC. Choosing the different pads will, from previous threads that I have read, give different results. If all you are looking to do is to remove wax then a polishing pad will do just that. Remove the wax. Giving you a fresh clean surface to apply your LSP.
 
cwcad said:
IMO there a few products available that are not better facilitated by the use of a PC. Choosing the different pads will, from previous threads that I have read, give different results. If all you are looking to do is to remove wax then a polishing pad will do just that. Remove the wax. Giving you a fresh clean surface to apply your LSP.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I figured that was the case, but if there's the slightest doubt, I ask the experts :)
 
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