Thoughts on Menzerna and Poorboys

R

RsRtuning

Former Gourmet Chef
I wrote a post some time ago, dedicated to problems we had with certain cars and the hardness of the clearcoat, and The 3M products we use.
Finally in Spain about a month ago, i found an importer of both menzerna and poorboys, and optimum products, So happy to finally be able to try and compare tem to 3M was a delight.
MENZERNA: Well it is a product that is easy to use, it can be used longer than the 3M line without drying, but it isnt better, well that was my first thought. Then i started to experiment, I made my own mix, using 50-50, Menzerna medium cut and 3M 03976 or 03975 from the finish it line.on the rotary, and the finishing up with menzerna final polish on the orbital. WOW, What a mix, at least on the last 3 cars I have done..

PoorBoys:
got the first bottles two days ago, and went ahead on a fairly scratched up volvo s 60 with mono cap paint in dark blue.

I have no clue what went wrong, with these brightly colored chewing gum smelling products. (at least youll never grab the wrong bottle:LOL) Same pads as always, same speeds, using the SSR 2.5 on the rotary 1500 rpm and then finishing off with SSR 1 on orbital and it looks really good, untill i take the car in again to wash off the residue, and it came out with millions of small hairfine scratches again. never happened before.
I mean i understand the procedure, and why they are there, but im cluless as to why it looked good before the wash. "fillers""?????
Are my pads i normally use maybe not compatible with Poorboys, or was this maybe just a one off acsident. (how do u spell accident in english)
my pads are the same for 3M, Menzerna, and Presta, and Wurths.,never happened in a year,
could the products be out of date,, i checked the bottles, but find no best before date. I shook the prods well before use.

had to finish of the car again, with 3M, and it came out great.


I am still waiting to receive the Optimum line prods, to give them a go as well.
 
Did you check your work as you went along? Maybe you didn't work the poorboys long enough. I've never had that problem with the SSR line. If you just got your order in two days ago I don't see why it would be expired. To me that just don't sound right. When working the product in for the proper amount of time I've always gotten great results when using the Poorboys products. Maybe someone else will have an answer for you.
 
BLUELINE 1 said:
Did you check your work as you went along? Maybe you didn't work the poorboys long enough. I've never had that problem with the SSR line. If you just got your order in two days ago I don't see why it would be expired. To me that just don't sound right. When working the product in for the proper amount of time I've always gotten great results when using the Poorboys products. Maybe someone else will have an answer for you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer. Yes i did check as allways the work as i went along, and it did look good, untill i took it to the wash bay degreased it, and washed it off again, as i always do, after the pollishing procedure, before we dry and add sealant or wax. It was when it came out of the second wash, that the markings came out.
This never happens whith the other products, thats why i am so confused about what was done wrong on my part.
thats why i am maybe thinking that poorboys maybe has more fillers than the others, and i couldnt see the misstakes untill after washed, or maybe you could be right, maybe i didnt work it long enough,unless poorboys needs a longer process then 3M, menzerna presta and wurth.
but the 3M fixed it right up afterwards???
it looked great at first,,hmmmmm, ill give it another go
 
If you are concerned with fillers, after you are done polishing spray a mixture of 50/50 water and isopropyl alcohol which will remove all fillers if any. There was either something wrong with your procedure, the products or your washing technique. Plus there is no need to wash after you are done polishing- go straight to the sealant which I think is where the issue came from. Just wasted time in my book. I personally like SSR 2.5 better with a dual action polisher rather than the rotary.
 
I know they have Oils but ""MOST"" do to provide lube. I am a BIG fan of poorboys stuff but I can never get the SSR to work right I normally will use the higher numbers and finish with menserna. 3, 2.5 are great. I also am a HUGE fan of ProPolish. If your working single stage paint it's worth it's weight in gold. With a rotary and a wool pad it leavel like no other. It's my first go to polish when i need to cut ...and i don't want to use abrasives.. PS i have seen IPA wipes done with no chage in finish so i'm sure ProPolish has NO FILLERS
 
Are my pads i normally use maybe not compatible with Poorboys, or was this maybe just a one off acsident. (how do u spell accident in english)
my pads are the same for 3M, Menzerna, and Presta, and Wurths.,never happened in a year,
Click to expand...

You didn't say which pads you used (abrasiveness) , but I would use only the green or blue propel with a rotary. Remember that our product has diminishing abrasives and they need to be fully worked to a final polish. If you used an orange or yellew pad, I can almost guarantee that you would be inducing as many swirls as you would be removing. There are no fillers if you completely break down the product.
 
Hi
Thanks again for all the input. I think it maybe is solved now then, as yes, I was using a yellow cut pad, which i would always use for the other products in the first stage with rotary, and then finishing off with a lighter pad and the ssr 1, comparing it to the 3M 03976, and i never had that problem with the others.
reason also being the car was in the need of it.

As this was the first time i tried poorboys, i was comparing in my mind the ssr 2.5, with 3M 03975, and using it the same way.i would have the 3M

I will give it a go today, with I less abresive pad, and see if that solves the problem.
have a black bmw stationwagon to do today, so well see what comes out then..

Ps. About washing the car after we pollish, may take some more time in the whole process, but I just hate to see any compound residue still on a perfect car, in any of the corners, cracks, nooks under the rubber trimms
and in my oppinion, the 20 minutes that the second wash takes, or not being sure there is no residue, in any part of the car, is worth it to me.

Thank you again for the help...
 
One of the great things about DC is that we have direct access to the developers of the products, or access to vendors that know the products well.

A few rules of thumb that I've learned over time:

1) Read the instructions. Once done, read them again.

2) If you have questions, call the vendor or DC sponsor and ask. The best time to ask is when you place an order.

3) Use DC as a research tool.
 
About washing the car after we pollish, may take some more time in the whole process, but I just hate to see any compound residue still on a perfect car, in any of the corners, cracks, nooks under the rubber trimms
and in my oppinion, the 20 minutes that the second wash takes, or not being sure there is no residue, in any part of the car, is worth it
Click to expand...

I also agree and often will do this after a lot of polishing. On the black car I would probably only use the blue pads and let the product do the work. Remember that cutting pads cut and even better with a rotary. Unless the finish is absolutely horrible, using the less aggressive pad will work better. It may invlolve going over the areas a few times but the results will pay off :)
Every product will have a slight learning curve, even to a professional. Changing pads to match the product is an easy fix and when you find the combo that fits your needs, you'll see how easy it becomes and the results will show too.
 
Have just finnished the black beeamer, with SSR 2.5, and a less abresive pad, and must say it came out very very nice, Problem solved, and as you said, theres always something new to be learned.
Thank you again, and count me in as a regular buyer from now on of poorboys..
 
RsRtuning said:
Have just finnished the black beeamer, with SSR 2.5, and a less abresive pad, and must say it came out very very nice, Problem solved, and as you said, theres always something new to be learned.
Thank you again, and count me in as a regular buyer from now on of poorboys..
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You are absolutely correct!! That is why I read so may posts. To learn the little tips and tricks that come out of so many posts. It is always nice to talk directly with the vendors!!
 
RsRtuning said:
Have just finnished the black beeamer, with SSR 2.5, and a less abresive pad, and must say it came out very very nice, Problem solved, and as you said, theres always something new to be learned.
Thank you again, and count me in as a regular buyer from now on of poorboys..
Click to expand...

I'm sure as you experiment more with your procedures you'll find even better results with less work involved. :)
 
RsRtuning said:
Have just finnished the black beeamer, with SSR 2.5, and a less abresive pad, and must say it came out very very nice, Problem solved, and as you said, theres always something new to be learned.
Thank you again, and count me in as a regular buyer from now on of poorboys..
Click to expand...
besides changing to another pad did you work the SSR longer this time?
 
Yes I did, also due to another previous post telling me to turn the bottle over and read the fine print :)
so I went with it untill a fine dust., just like it said.....
shows how sure one is, thinking I knew it all, and all prods are the same more or less..
last time I dont read the back first...LOL
 
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