Think I`m done messing around with coatings, final thoughts...

[tom p.]

Re: Coating w/ no real prep...

Hard to say it was `gone` after nearly 3 years but I`d imagine it was, or at least its hydrophobic elements were toast.

Is that a testament to Mohs still being there, I dunno. Have a `gut` feeling it was gone though.

Thanks, @BudgetPlan1. I`m just trying to keep closer track of what lasts and what doesn`t. Nothing wrong with 3 years, from my perspective! The only product I can honestly track for an extended period is CQuartz UK. That product seems up to the challenge.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Re: Coating w/ no real prep...

Thanks, @BudgetPlan1. I`m just trying to keep closer track of what lasts and what doesn`t. Nothing wrong with 3 years, from my perspective! The only product I can honestly track for an extended period is CQuartz UK. That product seems up to the challenge.

Having an easily accessible fleet of `rolling test panels` helps. Especially when doing some, uh, questionable things you wouldn`t dare do to your personal cars!

Overall, I found Mohs to be `Ok`...definately needs something on top like CanCoat. It`s kinda boring on it`s own, both aesthetically and functionally. I`d rather use Gtech CSL if I wanted something of that nature to use as a base...its more entertaining to apply and has a bit of a richer look. CSL + CanCoat had a very nice look.

 

[William_Wallace]

IGL is D-limone based, panel wipe is I read somewhere is mixture of solvents and not the norm alcohol based

 

[BudgetPlan1]

IGL is D-limone based, panel wipe is I read somewhere is mixture of solvents and not the norm alcohol based

Yeah, whole place smelled like a fruit farm after using it. Probably went a little heavy on application

I remember first trying it before coating a black car, didn`t much care for it. Don`t tell the IGL crowd though...

 

[bolts]

hey man love how you have the freedom and cash flow to polish a bunch of cars and try a lot of coatings wish i could do the same. your page on coatings and graphene was an excellent read! was wondering what do you think of the gtechniq w4? does it do anything? i recently ordered one and wanted to give it a try and was wondering your thoughts on his type of addition to the wash process. worth the extra dough? thanks!

 

[BudgetPlan1]

hey man love how you have the freedom and cash flow to polish a bunch of cars and try a lot of coatings wish i could do the same. your page on coatings and graphene was an excellent read! was wondering what do you think of the gtechniq w4? does it do anything? i recently ordered one and wanted to give it a try and was wondering your thoughts on his type of addition to the wash process. worth the extra dough? thanks!

`Tis my good fortune to work for a seasonal company w a fleet of vehicles and an owner who digs his vehicles being clean and shiny. Not much to do in Winter so if I spend my days polishing/coating vans, they`re more than happy to indulge me. Having a heated warehouse to work in is pretty cool too.

I started using Gtech W4 Citrus Foam last Spring and really like it. I *think* it has a bit more cleaning muscle than something like Gyeon Foam...but who knows for sure.

Even our daily drivers that sit outside 24/7 stay pretty clean so it`s not like I`m doing heavy cleaning during washes. I use it during Spring/Summer/Fall on our outdoor cars; indoor `fun` cars I just usually foam with regular shampoo (Gyeon Bathe, CarPro Reset, Kamikaze)...they certainly don`t need any extra cleaning power so no need for any extra `oomph` W4 might provide.

Shooting it all thru a PF22 cannon, SunJoe 3001 pressure washer, MTM shortie gun.

Who knows if it really makes any real difference w the different foams/shampoos...just kinda accumulated em all and it takes longer than I thought to use `em up. I don`t really like washing cars so much so I do it as little as possible.

It is fun, though...

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Another year, another couple of red trucks.

Did one yesterday `just for me` but notable differences for me that were helpful:

1. Used 20 x 40 Platinum Pluffle`s for prep wipedown (really liking Eraser these days). Much quicker than using smaller towels, can really hose the paint down and quickly clean it up with these bigger `drying` towels. Nice.

2. While I usually use the `mini` Coating Saver applicators, tried the 3x5 thin Coating Savers this time. Coatings spread out much more nicely, evenly and coating seemed to go farther. For base coat of Miyabi used 20ml for entire truck (2020 Ford Transit E250, no windows) aside from roof (used ISM 2.0 for that).

Nice changes for me that made for a more pleasurable application.

 

[atgonzales]

Nicely done, budget

 

[Coatings=crack]

Another year, another couple of red trucks.

Did one yesterday `just for me` but notable differences for me that were helpful:

1. Used 20 x 40 Platinum Pluffle`s for prep wipedown (really liking Eraser these days). Much quicker than using smaller towels, can really hose the paint down and quickly clean it up with these bigger `drying` towels. Nice.

2. While I usually use the `mini` Coating Saver applicators, tried the 3x5 thin Coating Savers this time. Coatings spread out much more nicely, evenly and coating seemed to go farther. For base coat of Miyabi used 20ml for entire truck (2020 Ford Transit E250, no windows) aside from roof (used ISM 2.0 for that).

Nice changes for me that made for a more pleasurable application.

I’m digging the 3x5 Savers for all topper applications. I used the 3x5 on my car when applying Cquartz and a friends a month with the mini’s and i think the 3x5 work better. Covers more area and easier to get under door handles.

I wasn’t sure of what to do with my pluffles now that i only use PFM’s or air to dry my car. Their really nice for wet application of OC and Cosmic. Been using them alot more lately and think I’m going to try out the 16x16’s



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[BudgetPlan1]

Last one for this Winter (4 this year), SPS Graphene. It`s done well on my personal car since May of 2019, a bright reflective gloss that seems to visually `burn thru` any light dirt on surface...maybe just the ticket for something you want always looking good from 2 feet away.

Aside from my new-found affinity for the thin 3x5 coating saver applicators and using a Platinum Pluffle for large-panel CarPro Eraser wipedowns, this year also notable to me for leaving the Flex 3401 at home and doing this all with Rupes 15 Mk2, BOSS21 and Rupes Mini. All polishing done w/ Sonax Perfect Finish, yellow Rupes pads, 4 passes, 10-15# pressure. Easiest & quickest polishing since I started this nonsense. While the vehicles are new, our decal guy leaves plenty of marks from his blue, plastic squeegee so there were some medium scratches here and there and lighter scratches everywhere.

 

[atgonzales]

Nicely done, Budget

 

[Coatings=crack]

Last one for this Winter (4 this year), SPS Graphene. It`s done well on my personal car since May of 2019, a bright reflective gloss that seems to visually `burn thru` any light dirt on surface...maybe just the ticket for something you want always looking good from 2 feet away.

Aside from my new-found affinity for the thin 3x5 coating saver applicators and using a Platinum Pluffle for large-panel CarPro Eraser wipedowns, this year also notable to me for leaving the Flex 3401 at home and doing this all with Rupes 15 Mk2, BOSS21 and Rupes Mini. All polishing done w/ Sonax Perfect Finish, yellow Rupes pads, 4 passes, 10-15# pressure. Easiest & quickest polishing since I started this nonsense. While the vehicles are new, our decal guy leaves plenty of marks from his blue, plastic squeegee so there were some medium scratches here and there and lighter scratches everywhere.

What is the cut level on the yellow rupes?More or less than an orangepad?


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[BudgetPlan1]

What is the cut level on the yellow rupes?More or less than an orangepad?


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I`d say a bit less than a LC Orange light cutting pad, all other things being equal. BOSS orange pad a bit stiffer than rupes yellow as well.

Rupes yellow such a handy pad, have used w Rupes 15, Boss21 and Flex 3401 although the Flex can be a bit hard on `em.

Used about 6 of each (6" & 7") on these trucks, also some 4" here and there.

 

[Gridlink]

I`m planning to coat my car sometime in the next month or so but am having a hard time deciding between 22PLE HPC and Kamikaze ISM for a Lexus with white metallic paint. This will by my first time applying a coating and I`m leaning towards the HPC for the ease of application and it being about half the cost of ISM when on sale. The big downside is having to wait 12-24 hours between coats but with the amount of free time I`m going to have for at least the next four weeks that probably won`t much as much of an issue. The upside of ISM would be the single coat and look compared to HPC, as BudgetPlan1 noted looks especially good with metallic paint. Either will be topped with Overcoat which I already have.

A third option would be the Adams UV coating is also an option but it`s too new to know how it holds up long term. Everything I`ve seen and read says it`s initially great but I`d really like to know how it holds up after at least a year before more seriously considering it.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

I`m planning to coat my car sometime in the next month or so but am having a hard time deciding between 22PLE HPC and Kamikaze ISM for a Lexus with white metallic paint. This will by my first time applying a coating and I`m leaning towards the HPC for the ease of application and it being about half the cost of ISM when on sale. The big downside is having to wait 12-24 hours between coats but with the amount of free time I`m going to have for at least the next four weeks that probably won`t much as much of an issue. The upside of ISM would be the single coat and look compared to HPC, as BudgetPlan1 noted looks especially good with metallic paint. Either will be topped with Overcoat which I already have.

A third option would be the Adams UV coating is also an option but it`s too new to know how it holds up long term. Everything I`ve seen and read says it`s initially great but I`d really like to know how it holds up after at least a year before more seriously considering it.

Boy, that`s a tough one given all the good coating choices out there. Considering what you`ve mentioned, I`d think 22ple HPC might be your best choice. Such an easy and forgiving product to use and might give a bit more visual pop to white. The ISM is great, easy to use but is more of a glow compared to more overt gloss that HPC gives. The effect on metallics that ISM provides might get a bit lost in white paint although I`ve never used it on white.

I did use HPC on Honda white that had a bit of `pearl-ish` metallic on it and it was beautiful.

That said, if I had a white car, I might give Polish Angel Viking Coat/So6ritz a try. Probably not as durable/long lasting as HPC or ISM but a forum member here once posted this pic of white Nissan Rogue done with Viking and it`s one of my favorite `after` pictures I`ve ever seen.

 

[Gridlink]

Boy, that`s a tough one given all the good coating choices out there. Considering what you`ve mentioned, I`d think 22ple HPC might be your best choice. Such an easy and forgiving product to use and might give a bit more visual pop to white. The ISM is great, easy to use but is more of a glow compared to more overt gloss that HPC gives. The effect on metallics that ISM provides might get a bit lost in white paint although I`ve never used it on white.

I did use HPC on Honda white that had a bit of `pearl-ish` metallic on it and it was beautiful.

That said, if I had a white car, I might give Polish Angel Viking Coat/So6ritz a try. Probably not as durable/long lasting as HPC or ISM but a forum member here once posted this pic of white Nissan Rogue done with Viking and it`s one of my favorite `after` pictures I`ve ever seen.

Thanks. I may end up going with HPC then. White is a hard color to get to really pop so going with a really glossy coating might be best solution. I suppose Miyabi could be another option too, but if HPC is longer lasting and just as glossy I think that`s still better for my needs.

I need to get some paint chips repaired before I can do the paint correction and apply whatever coating I go with. Due to the depth of some of the chips and the paint being a tri-coat metallic I may get it done professionally by a local detailer who I used before I became an enthusiast myself. The chips are going to need wetsanding and multiple layers of paint and clearcoat and I`m not comfortable doing that myself. At least the chips are only on the hood so I`ll be able to correct and coat the rest of the car, and do the hood after the repairs have had time to cure.

One last thing, for HPC would you still recommend the Lake County applicator over the Autofiber coating saver applicators? It would be really nice if Autofiber would sell smaller quantities as I really don`t need 12 of them. I do have some Gtechniq AP2 applicators I bought to use to apply C5 wheel armor. They`re on the small side but I`ll have a few left over after I coat my wheels.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

One last thing, for HPC would you still recommend the Lake County applicator over the Autofiber coating saver applicators? It would be really nice if Autofiber would sell smaller quantities as I really don`t need 12 of them. I do have some Gtechniq AP2 applicators I bought to use to apply C5 wheel armor. They`re on the small side but I`ll have a few left over after I coat my wheels.

Definately the Autofiber applicators, 3 x 5 thin are nice. Used to use the Mini`s but thin 3 x 5 work better for me. Seem to get excellent coverage with less product use.

AP2 applicators look interesting, never noticed those before.

 

[The Guz]

I`m planning to coat my car sometime in the next month or so but am having a hard time deciding between 22PLE HPC and Kamikaze ISM for a Lexus with white metallic paint. This will by my first time applying a coating and I`m leaning towards the HPC for the ease of application and it being about half the cost of ISM when on sale. The big downside is having to wait 12-24 hours between coats but with the amount of free time I`m going to have for at least the next four weeks that probably won`t much as much of an issue. The upside of ISM would be the single coat and look compared to HPC, as BudgetPlan1 noted looks especially good with metallic paint. Either will be topped with Overcoat which I already have.

A third option would be the Adams UV coating is also an option but it`s too new to know how it holds up long term. Everything I`ve seen and read says it`s initially great but I`d really like to know how it holds up after at least a year before more seriously considering it.

HPC is nice to work with. User friendly. But yes the downside to 22ple coatings is the long wait time between coats. 22ple told me 8-12 hours between coatings. Their new coating Insanity is also really nice. Side by side you won`t notice much difference between a majority of coatings on light paint. Insanity is just as easy to use as HPC. Supposed to be their most durable coating in their consumer line.

Adams UV coating is a nice coating to work with as well. The nice feature about it is the UV characteristic seen by the UV light. This aids in seeing where the coating has been applied on light colored paints. One thing I like about this coating is the slickness from it. It is definitely noticeable even after it cures unlike most coatings. HPC and Insanity feel tacky like most coatings. FYI the coating is not made by them but blended for them by the folks that blend Jade coatings.

I have a review on comparing these coatings against each other. You will see how coatings look on silver paint on how they all look similar to the naked eye. I also have a review on the Adams UV coating.

DI is having a 25% sale so it is a good time to get 22ple.

https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-...ssion/191378-2020-ceramic-coating-1-test.html

https://www.autopia.org/forums/deta...iew-adams-uv-ceramic-paint-spray-coating.html

Thanks. I may end up going with HPC then. White is a hard color to get to really pop so going with a really glossy coating might be best solution. I suppose Miyabi could be another option too, but if HPC is longer lasting and just as glossy I think that`s still better for my needs.

I need to get some paint chips repaired before I can do the paint correction and apply whatever coating I go with. Due to the depth of some of the chips and the paint being a tri-coat metallic I may get it done professionally by a local detailer who I used before I became an enthusiast myself. The chips are going to need wetsanding and multiple layers of paint and clearcoat and I`m not comfortable doing that myself. At least the chips are only on the hood so I`ll be able to correct and coat the rest of the car, and do the hood after the repairs have had time to cure.

One last thing, for HPC would you still recommend the Lake County applicator over the Autofiber coating saver applicators? It would be really nice if Autofiber would sell smaller quantities as I really don`t need 12 of them. I do have some Gtechniq AP2 applicators I bought to use to apply C5 wheel armor. They`re on the small side but I`ll have a few left over after I coat my wheels.

Autofiber all day as budget stated. If you don`t want to invest in them then get yourself some of the larger rag company butter soft suede applicators and make your own to fit on an applicator block (ie carpro). Those Gtechniq applicators are nice but they seem to leave a little lint behind. They are not bad though. They would work since you already have them.

Also the gloss you will get will come from polishing. The coating is not going to add much to the look on white paint in my experience. I have coated my silver Grand Prix and my white Camaro with various coatings.

 

[Coatings=crack]

Thanks. I may end up going with HPC then. White is a hard color to get to really pop so going with a really glossy coating might be best solution. I suppose Miyabi could be another option too, but if HPC is longer lasting and just as glossy I think that`s still better for my needs.

I need to get some paint chips repaired before I can do the paint correction and apply whatever coating I go with. Due to the depth of some of the chips and the paint being a tri-coat metallic I may get it done professionally by a local detailer who I used before I became an enthusiast myself. The chips are going to need wetsanding and multiple layers of paint and clearcoat and I`m not comfortable doing that myself. At least the chips are only on the hood so I`ll be able to correct and coat the rest of the car, and do the hood after the repairs have had time to cure.

One last thing, for HPC would you still recommend the Lake County applicator over the Autofiber coating saver applicators? It would be really nice if Autofiber would sell smaller quantities as I really don`t need 12 of them. I do have some Gtechniq AP2 applicators I bought to use to apply C5 wheel armor. They`re on the small side but I`ll have a few left over after I coat my wheels.

Third on the Autofibers. Like budget the 3x5 thins worked better than the mini for me. Gets under door handles and spoilers easier too.

I thought the same as you about the amount but now use them to apply everything. Toppers, sealants, wheel coatings and sealants, interiors


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[rossyl]

Hi Budget

I`ve asked a similar question to Guz.

Would you recommend Kamikaze, CQuartz or SPS for....

1. protect paintwork against the marring a Noah fully fitted cover might cause (I`ve got to use the cover, mainly for security).

2. Self cleaning. To make washing pre putting the cover on as quick as possible.

Just wondered what your thoughts would be on which is best?

Lastly, as I`m in the UK, do you happen to know if SPS Graphene and ArtDeShine Graphene, are the same thing?

Thanks very much
R