Thin Paint

M

mohamedmaark

New member
Hi guys more questions :lol2: Ok so im working on customer cars and i DONT have a paint thickness gauge, hopefully ill get one soon, what are some helpful tips for identifying whether the paint is to thin to work on... i know if i see clear coat failure then thats a sighn not to work on it.. and another queston, sometimes people have like scratches on their car and they ask if i could get it out, is there like a thread that will teach me about taking out scratches, because i know that to make a scratch look BETTER than you need to sand it and buff it, and if it hasnt gone through the clear coat than you should be able to remove it..... right?
 
Without a gauge, there is no way of knowing. These new cars are coming from the factory with very thin paint. I personally don't own one because I'm not going to drive myself nuts over paint readings just for a 1 step polish. I guess I'm just old school. If your just getting into this though, its a good idea to get one. Scratches need to be dealt with on a case by case basis. If you can catch a finger nail in them, they generally won't come out.
 
mrclean81 said:
Without a gauge, there is no way of knowing. These new cars are coming from the factory with very thin paint. I personally don't own one because I'm not going to drive myself nuts over paint readings just for a 1 step polish. I guess I'm just old school. If your just getting into this though, its a good idea to get one. Scratches need to be dealt with on a case by case basis. If you can catch a finger nail in them, they generally won't come out.
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So have you ever gotten a customer that wants his car "show car" status meaning completely sand the whole car down and buff? If so how did u do it without knowing the paint thickness, and does that mean u will buff any car that comes to you and wants his car buffed? is there ever a time ull get a customer that wants his car buffed and u say to him no because paint might be to thin...
 
Sure I've done plenty of wetsanding, but wouldn't take on a full wetsand on a new car without a gauge. I might lightly sand a scratch out or something with some 3000, but that's it. Older cars or repaints, that's nothing. I probably "need" a gauge because I do some pretty tough correction jobs, but if a person knows what they are doing and knows what it takes to actually burn through, its really not that big of a deal. If your using a PC or GG6, your not gonna burn anything unless your trying to or your camping out on a body line with it.
 
mrclean81 said:
Sure I've done plenty of wetsanding, but wouldn't take on a full wetsand on a new car without a gauge. I might lightly sand a scratch out or something with some 3000, but that's it. Older cars or repaints, that's nothing. I probably "need" a gauge because I do some pretty tough correction jobs, but if a person knows what they are doing and knows what it takes to actually burn through, its really not that big of a deal. If your using a PC or GG6, your not gonna burn anything unless your trying to or your camping out on a body line with it.
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Cool so hopefully ill be good for now becuz im using the 7424 and ill just keep learning until i "know what im doing"
 
You'll be fine. Its so easy to over think it because there is so much info out there and so many different opinions as well as products/pads/ machines etc. The best thing to do is just start off with some good polishes and get a feel for it. Once you are comfortable, try it with a compound. Next thing you know, you'll be doing 3 step corrections and blowing the minds of your clients :)
 
mohamedmaark said:
Hi guys more questions :lol2: Ok so im working on customer cars and i DONT have a paint thickness gauge, hopefully ill get one soon, what are some helpful tips for identifying whether the paint is to thin to work on... i know if i see clear coat failure then thats a sighn not to work on it.. and another queston, sometimes people have like scratches on their car and they ask if i could get it out, is there like a thread that will teach me about taking out scratches, because i know that to make a scratch look BETTER than you need to sand it and buff it, and if it hasnt gone through the clear coat than you should be able to remove it..... right?
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You really dont have to sand a scratch to take it out . You dont always need a machine either.It sound like the safest way for you at this point is to do it by hand . I find it easier to take many scratches out by hand with compound then using a machine if they are not too deep.

I recommend you learn wet sanding on your own vehicle or your friends beater car first before you start on customers cars.

A scratch that is still in the clear doesnt always mean its safe to take it out all the way .If its very deep in the clear you risk thinnig the paint too much.
 
mrclean81 said:
You'll be fine. Its so easy to over think it because there is so much info out there and so many different opinions as well as products/pads/ machines etc. The best thing to do is just start off with some good polishes and get a feel for it. Once you are comfortable, try it with a compound. Next thing you know, you'll be doing 3 step corrections and blowing the minds of your clients :)
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+1

I believe we overthink thickness of paint way too much when talking about compounding and polishing in general, it removes so little that unless the paint was sanded or repainted with an unbelievable hack job there isn't much to worry about.. Now wetsanding is a different subject and paint thickness does matter..
 
ca.detailchick said:
You really dont have to sand a scratch to take it out . You dont always need a machine either.It sound like the safest way for you at this point is to do it by hand . I find it easier to take many scratches out by hand with compound then using a machine if they are not too deep.

I recommend you learn wet sanding on your own vehicle or your friends beater car first before you start on customers cars.

A scratch that is still in the clear doesnt always mean its safe to take it out all the way .If its very deep in the clear you risk thinnig the paint too much.
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THats true there is a risk of removing alot of paint and im slowly learning and training on garbage panels thanks for the advice
 
ec90 said:
+1

I believe we overthink thickness of paint way too much when talking about compounding and polishing in general, it removes so little that unless the paint was sanded or repainted with an unbelievable hack job there isn't much to worry about.. Now wetsanding is a different subject and paint thickness does matter..
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Your right but even messing up on one car is a big deal... i would have to pay the customer to get it repainted. and then again some cars loose alot of clearcoat just from neglecting it correct? like sun damage not removing bird poop and so on
 
There's a point in chasing a scratch where it's just not worth it. As for sun damage that depends on the year of the car and condition. Most people getting their cars detailed with full corrections i.e. not 1-steps do the best you can vehicles, are recent cars built in the last 3-5 years and often either have a car that was trashed by another detailer, car wash, dealer, or brand new and don't have that to worry about. Granted there are always exceptions where without a paint gauge you just have to use your best judgement. Is the paint gauge a great tool yes, definitely, but for many is it $600 good? To me no, but I'm just a hobbyist.

As for bird etchings and such are just localized damage that aren't panel wide.
 
ec90 said:
There's a point in chasing a scratch where it's just not worth it. As for sun damage that depends on the year of the car and condition. Most people getting their cars detailed with full corrections i.e. not 1-steps do the best you can vehicles, are recent cars built in the last 3-5 years and often either have a car that was trashed by another detailer, car wash, dealer, or brand new and don't have that to worry about. Granted there are always exceptions where without a paint gauge you just have to use your best judgement. Is the paint gauge a great tool yes, definitely, but for many is it $600 good? To me no, but I'm just a hobbyist.

As for bird etchings and such are just localized damage that aren't panel wide.
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Ya personally dont think for 600+ its worth it
 
" Ya personally dont think for 600+ its worth it"


" but for many is it $600 good? To me no, but I'm just a hobbyist."

Dan F
 
You don't need a paint thickness gauge, but depending on the type of work you are doing, they are good insurance.

As far overly thinning the paint, there are just so many variables. I have seen a hack with polisher remove more paint in just minutes that I have with 3 stages of wet sanding and 3 steps of compounding and polishing.
 
Todd Helme said:
You don't need a paint thickness gauge, but depending on the type of work you are doing, they are good insurance.

As far overly thinning the paint, there are just so many variables. I have seen a hack with polisher remove more paint in just minutes that I have with 3 stages of wet sanding and 3 steps of compounding and polishing.
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:rofl:rofl:rofl:rofl:rofl:rofl:rofl HAHA thats pretty funny, and ya its very sad what unexperienced detailers do...
 
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