The Rupes BIGFOOT LHR 21E is heading to the USA!!!

If I was getting my first machine, and wanted quality, something that I wouldnt need to upgrade for a very long time, would you pro's recommend this machine?



Or is this a machine that needs the touch of a pro to command?
 
gimmeAlighter said:
If I was getting my first machine, and wanted quality, something that I wouldnt need to upgrade for a very long time, would you pro's recommend this machine?



Or is this a machine that needs the touch of a pro to command?



IMO if the price is affordable to you then I would get one. You won't regret it.
 
sorry if this has been addressed but i had a few questions for kevin or anyone that can answer them. thanks...



1. is there at some point or time going to be a smaller interchangeable backing plate(s) available for this (kinda like what the flex 3401 has) to run smaller pads if needed, or is it fixed with only the backing plate that comes attached to it?



2. how much faster will this correct side by side compared to the flex 3401 with the same products/pads (maybe someone can do a side by side)?



3. can someone shoot a short video of it in action?
 
Accumulator said:
You gonna get by OK without any smaller-stroke polishers?



I'll be keeping my 6" and 3" GG DAs since I like having tools and don't like selling them! Those will be used for those tighter areas if need be.

I will be giving my brother one of the 6" GG DA that I bought as I have 2 of those.
 
gimmeAlighter said:
If I was getting my first machine, and wanted quality, something that I wouldnt need to upgrade for a very long time, would you pro's recommend this machine?



Or is this a machine that needs the touch of a pro to command?



Honestly, not to take anything away from the Rupes, but I would say if this is your first machine and you have no others, then I would suggest getting the latest G110v2 from Kevin instead. The Bigfoot is definitely the poo, but it's massive stroke will not always allow you to get into tight areas and you will still need another machine for pretty much every car you do. At almost 1/3 the cost the most recent G110v2 is more than capable of doing a whole car and it will leave you plenty of money for other things that you will need. Be sure to pay the extra for the custom (smaller) housing too as it makes using 3" pad a whole lot easier...plus it just looks cool!!! ;)



Custom BuffDaddy housing vs. stock housing. :2thumbs:

NXTi.jpg
 
drew935 said:
I'll be keeping my 6" and 3" GG DAs...

Roger that, I'm pretty attached to my GG polishers too :D Eh, for that matter, I kinda like having *all* of my, uhm....accumulated polishers sitting around.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Honestly, not to take anything away from the Rupes, but I would say if this is your first machine and you have no others, then I would suggest getting the latest G110v2 from Kevin instead. The Bigfoot is definitely the poo, but it's massive stroke will not always allow you to get into tight areas and you will still need another machine for pretty much every car you do. At almost 1/3 the cost the most recent G110v2 is more than capable of doing a whole car and it will leave you plenty of money for other things that you will need. Be sure to pay the extra for the custom (smaller) housing too as it makes using 3" pad a whole lot easier...plus it just looks cool!!! ;)



Custom BuffDaddy housing vs. stock housing. :2thumbs:

NXTi.jpg



So the custom housing is a regular option now? Guess I'll have to bribe Kevin into selling me one to retrofit my G110v2, which I'm pretty sure is already the latest version.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
So the custom housing is a regular option now? Guess I'll have to bribe Kevin into selling me one to retrofit my G110v2, which I'm pretty sure is already the latest version.

Isn't that extension for the Rupes?
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
So the custom housing is a regular option now? Guess I'll have to bribe Kevin into selling me one to retrofit my G110v2, which I'm pretty sure is already the latest version.



I'm not sure it's "official" yet, but when I talked to Kevin he did say it was something he'd like to offer. Not sure what the added cost will be and/or if they will be laser etched like the one in the pic...anything is available for the right price though and I'm sure he'd etch "Worlds Best Detailer" on it if you wanted him too! ;)
 
CEE DOG said:
Kevin, Bravo on bringing this in to the US! And Bravo on the price point relatively speaking! If I needed another machine right now I would be in! As it is its only a matter of time before I call you but it will likely be awhile. I do have one question. Its insignificant to me as I clean my pad so often regardless but you mentioned the pad staying cleaner longer. I don't follow.. if a pad is cutting paint it is going to be just as clogged over the course of the amount of paint it cuts regardless of machine. It may cut faster or slower but if two identical pads are used on an identical sized section with identical polishes and are used to cut identical amounts of paint they will both contain identical amounts of clear coat and buildup. Do I make sense or am I missing something?









Kevin Brown said:
"Keep pads cleaner (particularly foam pads), as they do not have an ability to become tied or knotted or clumped together the way fibrous pads might (wool, microfinger, microfiber, felt, etc.)"



No, you make sense... I bullet-pointed a lot of things.



Imagine that you are hand sanding a painted panel using a sheet of sandpaper. If you were to only marginally move the hand pad back and forth 1-inch forward and backward, any paint that was scrubbed from the surface would for the most part linger under the paper, stuck between it and the paint surface. Eventually,the paper would clog with abraded paint residue, ceasing to sanding cleanly or efficiently. Certainly, the use of water to help rinse paint residue away would keep the surface and sandpaper mostly debris-free. If instead you went ahead and moved the hand pad back and forth 1-foot (using the same amount of strokes in the same amount of time), the abraded paint residue would be more apt to clear the area between the sandpaper and paint surface. Lots of motion means there's a better chance that any residue stuck on or stuck under the sandpaper will clear away.



A similar thing happens with large stroke machines when we buff paint using a foam pad and compound. Not only that, but with a larger stroke (all other things being equal) comes an increase in centripetal force (the force that causes the backing plate to rotate). The increase in stroke size and backing plate rotation makes it more difficult for debris to remain on the surface of the foam pad. This is particularly true when we're comparing residue build-up on foam pads versus pads that use strings (wool, microfiber, microfingers, cotton, etc.) With string-type pads, the individual string can trap the residue, the residue can clump the strings together, the string effectively become thicker, and voila!- We're seeing scour marks across the paint surface.



With foam, there's only so much that can be loaded into the pores immediately below the face of the pad or on top of the face structure of the pad. Sure, any particular foam pad might hold onto compound and residue more easily than another pad, but eventually, the thick layer of debris is going to break away from the foam, regardless its design. The debris will either be scuttled away via the pad's edge (effectively squeegeeing aside), or it will dust away, or it will be wiped away.



It's why many of us using the smaller Rupes LHR75 3" Air-Powered Mini Random Orbital just cannot believe that the paint surface is not hazed or scoured after we've polished using a dinky pad @ 8,000-10,000 RPM. It is a shocker, but what a difference there is between using it compared to a Griot's 3" machine or a Metabo SXE400.





Feedback CEE DOG?



You may have missed this much thought about and fairly time-consuming detailed response. :love:
 
Is there a 6" pneumatic version of the Bigfoot? Or a comparable big stroke pneumatic polisher. I'm looking to set up a high volume shop and really want to stick to aid powered tools.



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
IC3DT3 said:
Is there a 6" pneumatic version of the Bigfoot? Or a comparable big stroke pneumatic polisher. I'm looking to set up a high volume shop and really want to stick to aid powered tools.



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2



The main issue you'd run into there is that in order for an air powered system to be able to run a large-stroke DA with a 6" pad and sustain usable rotation under load, it would take a MASSIVE volume of air. High volume compressors (rotary screw usually) are available, but they're expensive and even still you might not be able to use more than one polisher at a time.
 
IC3DT3 said:
Is there a 6" pneumatic version of the Bigfoot? Or a comparable big stroke pneumatic polisher. I'm looking to set up a high volume shop and really want to stick to aid powered tools.



Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2



If your looking to go pnuematic. I would buy a pnuematic polisher and get the dynabrade attachment. It will be about as close as your gonna get.
 
Barry Theal said:
If your looking to go pnuematic. I would buy a pnuematic polisher and get the dynabrade attachment. It will be about as close as your gonna get.



Hmm, seems like a really bulky solution. I was hoping to find a good pneumatic polisher in the formfactor of a Mirka Bulldog or at least similar to a PCXP. Perhaps the Dynabrade 10786? 19mm stroke...



Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 
Kevin Brown said:
Feedback CEE DOG?



You may have missed this much thought about and fairly time-consuming detailed response. :love:



ROFL!! Sorry Kevin! I appreciate the response. I did miss that and will read through it a couple more times and reply shortly.

I didn't miss your other response to the majority of my questions earlier though! Very well thought and appreciated. I have to say there just wasn't much for me to add to a reply, lol
 
Back
Top