The History of Meguiars M16

C

craigdt

New member
After trying to dig up some info on this wax, I have become frustrated.



I would like to know when it was first released and when it was discontinued and last sold here in the US. Maybe Mike Phillips can chime in or another suitably elderly member :p



This is the best I could come up with: Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online - View Single Post - The Secret Slot - How to open a can of M16



I recently bought several tins off of ebay (like many of you) and it is a shame that such a great product is no longer produced.
 
Not a dust magnet.



Smells like crayons and looks like a sealant. Crisp/clean reflections, no warm and not super wet. It's like you have perfectly clean/new paint.



Durability rivals that of Collinite, though application can be a little finnicky if you let it 'set' too long.



Discontinued due to VOC non-compliance as far as I know.
 
wannafbody said:
God created Megs #16 on day 7.
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You mean "right after #7 " :chuckle:



It hit Ohio in the early 60's AFAIK. My mother said it was around before that but I'm not sure she was correct; I thought it came out, and a limited distribution area, during the 50's but I wasn't here to know first-hand ;) She *was* correct about how #16 was *SOOO* much easier to use than Simoniz though!
 
Its amazing that so much has changed since M16 came out. Paint and detailing products have really evolved, yet its still a very good choice. It protects well, lasts a long time and looks great.
 
Rob Tomlin said:
Doesn't this wax attract dust like a magnet? That's what I remember about it anyway.
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slawek65 said:
Not at all.
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mblgjr said:
Not a dust magnet.
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I just read that M16 has paraffin wax in it.



If accurate, it would lead me to believe that my recollection of M16 as attracting dust is accurate.



Can anyone confirm or deny the paraffin?
 
I can only re-confirm that it is not a dust magnet. Much less than most sealants in my use which goes back to the 70's.



Talk about the Blue Coral and Simonize products of the day and Blue Coral was the absolute worst in difficulty of removal.



I've never been without #16 in my arsenal ever since and still have several tins. I typically get about 80 cars out of one tin and many of my clients have commented that they have never seen water beading so profusely.
 
Thanks for the responses guys.



I'm starting to think that I was confusing this wax (M16) and dust attraction with the One Grand Blitz Wax that I used to use.
 
Just to chime in...



I've had the opportunity to test a lot of waxes almost always taped-off, square sections on clear coated black panels and sometimes straight black lacquer.



I've see the same results over and over again each time and I've posted this same thing numerous time in my life and you can probably find similar posts by search on MOL using the term Dust Magnet or something like that...



Anyways, for what it's worth here's what I've seen...



Any section that has been waxed or had a paint sealant applied to it will always have more dust than the surrounding paint that has been chemically stripped and left bare.



Always.





It's an easy test to do yourself too... just wipe down the hood of your car with IPA, MS or APC, then wash it a couple of times with a strong detergent wash so you're starting with a clean base.



Now tape off a square section about a foot to 8" square or so and apply ANY wax or sealant. Follow the manufactures directions for application and removal.



Now let the hood be exposed to the outdoors, preferably with no rain or wet weather, (hail/snow) and over the course of about a week you'll see more dust attracted to and accumulating on the test sections while the rest of the paint remains dramatically more dust free.



Conclusion: Don't wax your car or apply any paint sealants to the paint.



LOL just joking.

It's better to add protection than it is to leave the paint bare for both the idea of preserving the paint over the service life of the car and making it look good.





One other thing to remember, if you're rubbing your paint with a dry microfiber, like when you wipe the wax off you can actually create a build-up of static electricity onto the paint. Wiping the paint with water or a spray detailer will act to remove most of the static electricity build-up.



I was told a long time ago that modern clear coat paints start out being prone to static electricity to begin with so rubbing them can't help.



FWIW



:)
 
Knowing what I've seen, I always find it interesting to read a post where a person singles out a product as being a dust magnet which paints the product in a negative light.



While this is done innocently, it can still bee seen that way.



That's why from time to time when I see a comment about such and such being a dust magnet I'll chime in and post what I've seen.



There may be products that are less prone to attracting dust, but I've never seen one that when tested on bare paint didn't attract more dust than just bare paint.





:)
 
Anyone from Meguiar's reading this can feel encouraged to correct me because I'm only posting this based upon what I've learned from others much older than me in this industry over the years.



Don't take this as concrete and/or absolute because I could be wrong but here's what I think I know about the history of M16



I should probably copyright this so professional "Information Gatherers and Assemblers" will give me credit instead of adding it to their collection like they came up with it.



:lol :lol :lol







M08 Maximum Mold Release was introduced in 1950. I'm pretty sure M16 was introduced in 1951. There's more to the story but I don't have any way to confirm its accuracy.





Below you'll find a few pictures of my M16 Professional Paste Wax Collection.



M16Collection01.jpg




M16Collection04.jpg




M16Collection06.jpg




M16LippedCan02.jpg




M16LippedCan03.jpg




M16LippedCan04.jpg








The entire time I was taking these pictures my son kept trying to ham his way into the photos...



M16LippedCan05.jpg
 
For those who didn't get in on the ebay deal, eshine has M16 on bogof until Dec. 12, and he won't be stocking this again once he's out of the current stock. Almost the end of an era.
 
I have several tins stored in food saver bags that should last for years. Much depends on storage conditions. If it is not subjected to heat or freezing it should last for years.



As to applications by machine... I frequently spread some on a finishing pad and apply it with a PC and get excellent thin coats. You can use a spoon or butter knife to facilitate the transfer to the pad. It liquifies rapidly at speed 2-3.
 
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