The Garry Dean Wash Method... Finally...

[quote name='Garry Dean']Microfibers are more absorbent when they are damp.[/QUOTE



OIC.



Meant so thanks for sharing this great technique.
 
I am virtually deaf and did not understand every word Gary said although the video was worth a thousand words so I think I got the concept of what he was doing. The captions are all over the place so they were of no help. It looks like a neat way never to allow dirt to be re-introduced onto the paint but let me get this method straight and if I'm wrong perhaps someone can help me.



You start by putting a bunch of microfiber towels in your 5 gal. rinseless wash solution (one for each area or panel I assume?). I use ONR (new version) and lately I've also tried the Duragloss rinseless with AquaWax which I like a lot. You begin the wash itself by squirting a panel at a time with a waterless wash (I assume you mean something like PoorBoy's Spray and Wipe). This is then wiped down with one of the wet towels from the bucket which captures the dirt and is then discarded, followed by a rung out but damp microfiber towel used for drying. The final step is a dry microfiber to completely dry and buff the panel. Could someone just verify that I got this technique right or did I miss anything? Thanks.
 
^^

I had the same question because I didn't completely understood some terms you used (I'm french lol).



1- In that spray bottle: Is it a Quick Detailer? or it's the rinseless solution diluted to a almost Quick Detailer dilution?



2- Let's say the car is VERY dirty. I'm assuming you would start with let say a "foam/cannon gun" step so it can looses all the debrits and after that you would use that method?



I'm about to try the rinseless wash process/step (becoming Eco-friendly as I am getting older -_- )



Thanks guys!
 
shortspark said:
I am virtually deaf and did not understand every word Gary said although the video was worth a thousand words so I think I got the concept of what he was doing. The captions are all over the place so they were of no help. It looks like a neat way never to allow dirt to be re-introduced onto the paint but let me get this method straight and if I'm wrong perhaps someone can help me.



You start by putting a bunch of microfiber towels in your 5 gal. rinseless wash solution (one for each area or panel I assume?). I use ONR (new version) and lately I've also tried the Duragloss rinseless with AquaWax which I like a lot. You begin the wash itself by squirting a panel at a time with a waterless wash (I assume you mean something like PoorBoy's Spray and Wipe). This is then wiped down with one of the wet towels from the bucket which captures the dirt and is then discarded, followed by a rung out but damp microfiber towel used for drying. The final step is a dry microfiber to completely dry and buff the panel. Could someone just verify that I got this technique right or did I miss anything? Thanks.
Click to expand...



That is exactly right.



resek said:
^^

I had the same question because I didn't completely understood some terms you used (I'm french lol).



1- In that spray bottle: Is it a Quick Detailer? or it's the rinseless solution diluted to a almost Quick Detailer dilution?



2- Let's say the car is VERY dirty. I'm assuming you would start with let say a "foam/cannon gun" step so it can looses all the debrits and after that you would use that method?



I'm about to try the rinseless wash process/step (becoming Eco-friendly as I am getting older -_- )



Thanks guys!
Click to expand...



1.) The solution in the spray bottle I used is from my personal line of Premium Custom Detailing Products. Its my Infinite Use Detail Juice Concentrate in ready to use form. Its kind of like a waterless wash solution, but the concentrate can be used for multiple purposes. Any waterless or rinseless concentrate solution diluted in a spray bottle will work for the presoak.



2.)If your car is really dirty you should revert to the traditional two bucket method with a foam presoak.



Eco friendly is awesome!
 
Interesting approach. Gary your method does try to address the people who dismiss waterless/rinseless as a safe technique with the pre-soaked multi-towel approach.



It seems the money here seems to be in mf towels as much as the wash product. Depending on where people buy microfiber, the bucket could have $150 worth of high quality towels if not purchased in bulk that would need to be washed along with the mf wash soap. I usually use 4 (upper, sides, lower, front/rear) mf wash mitts when I use ONR.
 
Bunky said:
Interesting approach. Gary your method does try to address the people who dismiss waterless/rinseless as a safe technique with the pre-soaked multi-towel approach.



It seems the money here seems to be in mf towels as much as the wash product. Depending on where people buy microfiber, the bucket could have $150 worth of high quality towels if not purchased in bulk that would need to be washed along with the mf wash soap. I usually use 4 (upper, sides, lower, front/rear) mf wash mitts when I use ONR.
Click to expand...



There's nothing saying one needs to have super high-end MF towels for this approach to work/be safe. I put together my GDWM setup today with a new 5-Gal. bucket ($4), Gamma Seal lid ($7 locally), and two brand new packs of Sam's ProForce MF towels (48 total - roughly $25). My choice for a drying towel is to continue using one of my waffle weave towels (Meg's Water Magnet - $8 locally) instead of one from the bucket, and I'm using a Meg's Supreme Shine MF as the final buffing cloth (3-packs are $7 online). Add to that the price of 16oz. of IUDJ ($20) and a spray bottle for the pre-soak (I use a Spraymaster bottle, so $6), and that's not too bad at all.



Total cost all told? $77. Add $4 extra if you buy and use distilled water in the bucket and spray bottle.



Of course there are ways to increase or decrease that cost depending on how you choose to put together your system, but IMO this is very affordable. I use the Sam's club MF towels for almost everything already anyway, have for years and I've never encountered any problems with them marring even after being washed with plain old liquid Tide detergent like I use for all my other laundry.
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
There's nothing saying one needs to have super high-end MF towels for this approach to work/be safe. I put together my GDWM setup today with a new 5-Gal. bucket ($4), Gamma Seal lid ($7 locally), and two brand new packs of Sam's ProForce MF towels (48 total - roughly $25). My choice for a drying towel is to continue using one of my waffle weave towels (Meg's Water Magnet - $8 locally) instead of one from the bucket, and I'm using a Meg's Supreme Shine MF as the final buffing cloth (3-packs are $7 online). Add to that the price of 16oz. of IUDJ ($20) and a spray bottle for the pre-soak (I use a Spraymaster bottle, so $6), and that's not too bad at all.



Total cost all told? $77. Add $4 extra if you buy and use distilled water in the bucket and spray bottle.



Of course there are ways to increase or decrease that cost depending on how you choose to put together your system, but IMO this is very affordable. I use the Sam's club MF towels for almost everything already anyway, have for years and I've never encountered any problems with them marring even after being washed with plain old liquid Tide detergent like I use for all my other laundry.
Click to expand...



That's a great breakdown Charlie, thanks. Great video Garry!
 
Wow, I have not been amazed at a new wash technique since I learned about the 2BM years ago. I almost didn't even click in this thread because of it. "Really? What NEW way am I going to learn how to wash a car..."



I was thinking about this same/similar idea (using multiple towels with the combo of waterless/rinseless) when I bought a ton of "Scottwax" towels at Target (on sale, took the shelf!). But never did it even occur to me to think about stuffing 50 towels in there!! AMAZING. I was just thinking about how the heck I'm going to do more than 1 wash at corporate locations without getting a water tank, etc, etc. This is why I LOVE the forums, I would be still be washing my car with whatever soap I could find and drying it with bath towels.





You literally just saved me about $1000 in purchasing. Next time I'm in need for some product, I'm going to try out some of your stuff just as a thank you!!
 
Nice video Garry, and thank you for the breakdown Charlie.



I can see this being a really good idea if it is streamlined properly. Personally, with a small vehicle that is Opticoated [eventually], if you add a step of rinsing the vehicle, I can't imagine you would use many towels at all. Not to mention with this method you're adding gloss by using a rinseless/washless wash.
 
I like that you think outside the box (bucket), Gary. Great concept and well explained. As I watched the video I thought of possible questions and arguments, but as I analyzed them I kept coming to the conclusion that your method has no disadvantages, only perhaps a few theoretical draws.



My one suggestion is to change the wording when you mention "discarding" the towel after one use. Someone who takes that literally might think you are crazy.
 
Nth Degree said:
My one suggestion is to change the wording when you mention "discarding" the towel after one use. Someone who takes that literally might think you are crazy.
Click to expand...



Funny you mention that....



Scion FR-S Forum | Subaru BRZ Forum | Toyota 86 GT 86 Forum | AS1 Forum - FT86CLUB - View Single Post - The Garry Dean Wash Method... Finally...



Heero said:
First off... thanks for sharing your method. However...



Are all those towels discarded afterwards? Call me a tree huger but that seems like a HUGE waste.



Talk about environmental damage...
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top