Thank you broker99

P

Preachers Sheets

New member
I have spent 15 hours on a 1999 Camaro SS and I am still not done, this is what I have left to do:



roof

inside doors

interior

rims

tires

windows



This is what I HAVE done:



2 coats of 3M swirl mark remover; 4 in some areas

2 layers of Klasse all-in-one

4 layers of Klasse glaze (had to do one the next day)



All I can say is my paint seems like it is as durable as a tank. It has a very deep/rich look.



I am never using wax or glaze again. There is no reason why every person in this form does not use Klasse (unless you’re a die-hard fan of Zanio). 1.) It's a very long lasting material. 2.) Very good looking; although it is hard to describe, it gives the paint a more "whole" or "rich" look, even without wax. 3.) If all of this last 4-8 months, need I give any more excuses? 4.) If your paint is in good condition, the all-in-one wipes off effortlessly, I literally mean this will be the easiest application to wipe off of any kind of material you ever applied to your paint. The glaze is a sight to behold, you can tell there is a layer of something on your paint, this layer seems to be the ultimate protectant, wax, glaze etc. You should see the way water beads off 4 layers of this stuff. Beads much better than wax.



Ok, I need to get back to work but I can't stress enough how nice this stuff is, I wish I knew about this sooner, I would of never been using the regular glaze/wax combo which fades after a month of some sun and rain. This stuff cost as much and is 10 times worth more in value.
 
not trying to be a smart a$$ here, but how did you manage to do all those layers of Klasse in a 15 hour time period? The general rule of thumb I've tried to follow is to allow atleast 24 hours between coats of SG for proper set up and bonding. You probably ended up with just one or two very thorough layers of SG as opposed to 4. I did the same thing the first time I applied the twins. Still, I don't doubt that your paint looks wonderfully deep and reflective and is protected from the elements. Just wait until you get tired of applying SG and decide to layer on some blitz or souveran...



Welcome to the Club.



Steve
 
Sounds like you've been having a great deal of fun :D

Two comments, though.

1. RE: beading - wait a couple of weeks. Hopefully it still beads. Lots of discussion on that topic recently.

2. If you like the way KSG looks now, and you've got a dark car, you will <strong class='bbc'>love[/b] the way it looks with a blitz topper. "Dipped in water" is the closest superlative I can come up with.

Keep up the good work.
 
1. You should of waited the proper cure time to allow layering



2. How do you know that it is ".....a very long lasting material...." when you just applied it?!



3. I experienced water beading too, but it turned to sheeting after 1-2 washes. Keep us posted, I look forward to your results over a few weeks time.



4. Also, how did you wipe it on and off? What was your application methods? dry time? etc,etc. Every time I used SG, I had a tough time buffing it off.



5. What products were you using before you switched to KLASSE?



Thanks.......and keep us posted.
 
I just bought Blitz and plan on putting it over the SG. I am trusting all of you that it gives a new amazing look to my vehicle.
 
I just spent quite a bit of time typing a response to Detailking and Wolfsburg but I think we'd all be better of not seeing it online.



To cut to the chase, I have gone mad seeing how quickly people will judge other people when their own findings are in deep concern.



Don't even start with the "cure" time. The word itself means "finish a material with by applying chemicals" or "to make a material harder". How can you tell me I am not letting the Klasse cure if you don't know what the words mean. If you want to be exact, I am letting it cure because the product is hard and I am removing the dried up residue which is useless, you like to leave it on for another 23.5 hours. Why? There is no reason why.



Alot of what I read in this fourm can very very easily be douted, I see alot of "he said and I heard and I think".
 
First, to avoid any potential misunderstanding, I am not challenging your findings. You are correct, much of what is on the forum are findings/experience of other members. That experience is often communicated by other members using the phrase, I think, or he said, citing their own or other's experiences.



As far as "cure time". I want to clarify what I MEAN or understand as cure time. Cure time to me is not leaving the dried product on the car for 24 hours or longer. To me that is "dwell time" or "dry time". I normally allow a 40 to 60 minute dry time for Klasse Sealant Glaze. I allow almost no dry time for Klasse All in One. Wipe on AIO, wipe off. I hope my explanations make sense so far.



The "cure" time I refer to is the time the layer of product is allowed to "bond" with the surface of the paint. Ex. I wipe on KSG, allow it to dry for 40 minutes, then wipe off the residue. Now I wait from 24 hours to one week(depending on my time availability) to put on another coat of KSG.



Again, this is pulling from other's experiences. Many long standing members on the board have found that they have the best results with KSG when they allow at least 24 hours between coats. I am not a chemistry man, but some folks here have a strong background in chemistry and the paint industry. These folks state that polymers create a longer lasting bond when they are allowed a long "cure" or "bond" time with the surface they are applied to.



KSG contains very mild solvents to suspend the ploymers in solution. Considering this, the thought is that when you apply additional layers of KSG before waiting 24 to 48 hours that the solvents in the second coat of KSG will in effect "remove" some of the previous applied layer. Thereby preventing a full layering effect of the product.



I view this process as similar to painting. I know that if I paint a thin coat on a piece of wood, and allow that piece to dry overnight, I will probably obtain a better result with a second coat than if I applied another coat over top without allowing the first to "cure" and "dry" completely.

This is probably not an accurate analogy, but I just use this as an example in my own mind to explain the "curing" of polymers.



Just wanted to try and clairfy where some folks were coming from. I don't think anyone here wants to "slam" someone's technique. In all honesty, most just want to try and help you achieve the best shine. But hey, if you already achieve that with the methods you use, then carry on!



Post some pics of your hard work, I am sure that all want to see your results. We all love to see a great looking car!



SJ
 
Man, ChevyZ71 posted just before me...now it looks like I copied his paint analogy...guess I was writing my post while he was posting!



SJ
 
Now you dont look like you copied anybody. :) Not to mention my post seemed too flaming so I just deleted it. I'm not here to make anybody mad just love to share detailing tips and talk about our pride and joys.



Just bought some Isopropel alcohol. Gonna make some glass cleaner today. I hope it works good cuz the stuff is cheap and so am I.

;)
 
I'm still waiting for the answer to the question as to how you know it lasts a long time? I was also pretty jubilant and happy with my AIO2x and KSG 2X until I washed my car twice over the course of two weeks. The car still had a deep, rich shine... but it had zero slickness & zero beading.
 
Intermezzo330I



If your car still has the deep rich shine, then the Klasse is still on the car.



The issue of lack of beading and slickness is a tough one. You are not the only one who has had this problem. DETAILKING and myself have been trying to come up with a solution, but after many tests have not been able to find one.
 
advice and tips to make it work even better. The car still has a high gloss, but slickness is gone after a few washes, and water beading turns to sheeting......



Because there is limited information available on KLASSE, and no one to really contact that will give out any info (I tried and got an email stating that the info would only be given to that persons friends and customers....what is the secret?!)...well I am really relying on personal experiences and info. Showroom Lincoln has been a big help with his tests and alternate methods of application to try out. I am just looking for some other personal experiences. So I ask...why didn't you post that response? What is there to hide? You like the product and it is working well for you....why not help out others so they can match your success?
 
Ok, everything's fine.



I am going to do some research on polymers (spelling?) and see what I can find.



I would like to know exactly what happens with Klasse so I'll look up a few products which are in it and see what kind of combination is created to give all of us a little closure.
 
unless you got it analyzed, which would cost a lot.



Also, most of us get the general idea of how polymer's work. Some polymers are more durable than others. Klasse's system seems to be water soluble, which might explain the sheeting after exposure to water. Polymers cross link after appllication and take time to cure. You have to let them cure enough so that a second coat won't soften the existing coat...and that has to do with cure time, and the level of solvents in the formula. Unless a chemical catalyst is added (i.e. new zaino ZFX) the crosslinking process is quite slow and might take up to 24-48 hours for some systems depending on humidity, and ambient temperature. It's hard to make generalities, as each product is different.
 
Joed1228- Id HIGHLY reccomend searching through the archives and seeing what other have discovered. Granted there is no one way to apply Klasse AIO and KSG, but there are some methods that work better than others. As DK stated, Klasse is a product which we have little to no information on, and we're working TOGETHER to try and figure out a way to make it works its best, in terms of shine and protection. If you want to apply however many layers at a time then by all means do so if that makes you happy, but if your going to sport a cocky attitude when someone questions your technique, then hit the road, cuz this forum is about LEARNING and SHARING knowledge. Not about saying whoose right or wrong, because we all have different views on everything which is the absolute stregnth of this community.
 
Ok, I think you guys already know that thick circular cement support beams are still soft in the middle. It takes years for them to dry.



I think if we scale down that image we can picture the Klasse on a car. I am confident that as long as the outer shell is dried and nothing can penetrate the inner layers all I am really doing is applying layers that will dry more and more over a long period of time, sort of time releasing what I have applied instead of getting the best out of it the first day and watching it go downhill.



Either way, I will keep and eye on it.
 
1. How do you gauge the cure time of even the outer layer?



2. Assuming your theory....say the outside shell is hard, but the inside is still soft. Well if that is the case, than the "bond" with the clear coat is not set, and any hard rubbing, or stresses on the system will weaken it.
 
This does not seem to be a discussion anymore but a debate on who knows more on Klasse or polymers. Lets keep this fun.
 
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