** Test - Swirl Removal By Hand **

so what are the hand movements when polishing by hand ??



i believe i read to apply wax / sealant in an up and down or side to side motion, not circles,



is this true ?



i want to polish / wax my wrangler and most will need to be done by hand.



thanks
 
gav'spurplez said:
so what are the hand movements when polishing by hand ??



i believe i read to apply wax / sealant in an up and down or side to side motion, not circles,



is this true ?



i want to polish / wax my wrangler and most will need to be done by hand.



thanks
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Gav....I have a few sealants and waxes that say to apply in straight motions...front to back on top panels and up and down on side panels...something to do the way they dry and reflect light....even zaino says to apply in a circular motion and finish in a straight line motion...



this is the way I have done it for awhile...whether it makes a difference or not..do not know..but the makers recommend it and they know more than me on thier products..lol....



AL
 
I'm in the "direction doesn't matter" camp. PCs/etc. move in all different directions ("random orbital" action) and nobody complains about the finishes that *they* leave ;)



I've read the "this way for these panels; that way for those" and I wasn't convinced and I've never met anybody who said they could see a difference.



But if it doesn't matter, then people can just do whatever they want anyhow ;)
 
though im a machine junkie, thats a great review you did, thanks for taking the time to do that and posting it here . . .



there is always a part of every car that a machine cant get to, or if it can, not easily. i would prefer a few more minutes of scrubbing out defects by hand in those areas, rather than risk damaging the car with a PC or rotary on a significant speed slipping away form me . . . .
 
I too enjoyed the write up, but noticed that the ambient lighting changed over the course of the test, thus this might have caused some of the differences? The flash of the photo on a good camera would change with ambient lighting changes.



I love when people test things, and they are much more powerful when you can control all the possible variables in the test except for the one you're wanting to measure the difference.



Can you let me (us) know more about the testing process?



Cheers,

Greg
 
I was reading through the descriptions and just wondered what you meant by "hits". Is the the amount of times you passed over a particular area, or are these seperate applications?
 
going to work on my wrangler tomorrow,



i would say hits,



polish, remove, polish remove,

so hits meaning how many times the polishing agent was applied,



:werd:
 
Ok, thank you. Is it typical for y'all to use more than one application of polish at a time? I've read about layering the wax but this is the first I've heard about "stacking" polish (then again, I've only been here a week).



My arm tired after one coat of polish and I half limped the wax on... I can't imagine polishing by hand 3-5 times prior to waxing.



Do you do the entire vehicle at a time, or complete all 3-5 applications on a single panel before moving on to the next?
 
to prevent having to polish the whole vehicle 5 times by hand, most people rely on machine polishing,



for those who do polish by hand, hopefully once their vehicle is flawless ( or as close to it as possible ) they maintain their wash / dry methods so that the vehicle does not get in that bad of shape.



let's hear it for the PC :usa
 
Greg Nichols said:
I too enjoyed the write up, but noticed that the ambient lighting changed over the course of the test, thus this might have caused some of the differences....
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Welcome to Autopia!



FWIW I've been playing around with trying to take photos of this sort of thing. Noting that I've been shooting with SLRs for over 30 years I find it incredibly hard to get show-what-I-see pics of this sort of thing. Pretty frustrating, actually, but interesting too (at least to me).



Ceezer- Machines break polishes down very differently from hand use (and rotaries do it very differently from PCs), so by hand you often have to use more steps. Think of it like sanding wood with increasingly finer grades of sandpaper.



If you're doing the whole vehicle at once (and know what products/progression will work) then I'd do the whole vehicle with polish #1, then whole thing with #2, etc. If you're working piecemeal (which I recommend in many cases) then I'd work one panel with every product/process from aggressive polishing all the way through LSP and then see if you want to do another panel or wait until after the next wash.



That piecemeal approach is a real lifesaver at times; as you noted, doing this stuff for hours on end can really be a PIA.



And yeah, IMO "hits" and "passes" oughta mean working a product to the point of removal.
 
Accumulator said:
If you're working piecemeal (which I recommend in many cases) then I'd work one panel with every product/process from aggressive polishing all the way through LSP and then see if you want to do another panel or wait until after the next wash.
Click to expand...



Doing it this way won't produce off-colored/mismatched panels, right, since it's protected by a waxing (I'm assuming LSP means something like last stage product, since I couldn't find it on the decoder or through a few search returns)?



I really appreciate the help
 
Ceezer said:
Doing it this way won't produce off-colored/mismatched panels, right, since it's protected by a waxing (I'm assuming LSP means something like last stage product, since I couldn't find it on the decoder or through a few search returns)?
Click to expand...



Yeah, "LSP"= Last Step Product, i.e., wax/etc.



You might see *some* difference between done/not panels depending on how bad things are when you start, and yeah, in some extreme cases it can make a vehicle look like a real work in progress. But generally it's not all *that* bad and even when it is, you have to weigh the pros/cons of trying to do the whole vehicle at one time.



One of the things I'd consider is that after a few hours of doing this stuff, it can be pretty hard to maintain the same level of work that seemed so easy when you were fresh.
 
awesome comparison!



can you repost the "Final" picture of the Meguiar's Scratch X? For some reason, I get a red X (missing image) in my web browser. Maybe a broken link? thanks.
 
Hi, I am new to the whole detailing scene. Which would you guys say had the best results on removing swirls by hand? I personally liked the first product used, Meg's Swirl Remover. I am a student and can't afford a buffer, but don't mind doing things by hand so I'm looking forward to doing this.



So right now, I'm looking at getting a bottle of the swirl remover but if you guys can recomend something better to me, I'll be grateful and I'll try to find it. I just know the Swirl Remover will be easy to find at any store.



(Is Swirl Remover a polish? Or do I need to follow up with one? If so, which do you recommend?)
 
I appreciate your due diligence in hand application, however what you have or what it appears you have is not swirls ,but in fact spider web scratches in the paint, due to improper washing and or a tunnel car wash.

A swirl mark is dried compound that is left from a high speed buffer, and or buffer marks.

I find that so many people get these two confused. The spider scratches can be diminished , but never will completely disappear , they are micro abrasions in the paint, and generally wet sanding will not remove them completely either. The products that you have selected to use , I would consider over the counter products and would not even consider using them to get a maximum or a professional result , which would keep your customer coming back for your services.
 
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