Tempted to try another Wax....Collinite or other? For coming winter long protection.
- Thread starter ShawnF350
- Start date
Broceratops
Jake Dillard
Use 476s. It is a pain to buff off but do two or three very very very thin coats and DO NOT get more than one panel ahead! I do the hood, move to the drivers fender, go back and wipe off the hood, wax drivers door and A Pillar, go back and wipe the fender...etc. IMO if you aren't using a coating; Modesta, Cquartz, Gtechniq, Opticoat and so on, you should be using 476s for winter. I live in Michigan so winter for me is different than it is for a lot of southern guys obviously. If i lived somewhere that never saw snow I probably wouldn't use 476s.
My tin of fk1000p is schedueled to arrive tuesday. I'm excited to try it out. Accumulator you have advocated 2 to 3 coats for winter use in this thread with enough time in between coats to avoid pseudo holograms. But, i didn't see a post how long, long enough is? (I may have missed it, and if so i apologize. ) Thanks for the help.
skibik
New member
From a few years ago, if memory serves correct, the guru from FK said that there really was no need to wait between coats. The solvents supposedly flash off during the cure time and no need to wait between coats. I normally would apply either in the morning then wait about 4 to 6 hours and then another coat or I would apply a day apart. This year I only went with one coat. I have been using it the last 3 winters on my Camaro and it seems to last through our salty winters. I still notice it working decent after 5 months of cold. Car gets washed on the average in the winter once every 2 weeks at a touchless carwash if it is not sub-zero out.
For those that wonder about the "high temp wax" term, again from what I read, this stuff was actually made as a mold release wax. This slips my mind but I thought I read it supposed to stand up to 250F without degradation.
I am old school so it is hard to "put it on thin" and if you let it haze over completely when it is a little heavy it is hard to remove.
For those that wonder about the "high temp wax" term, again from what I read, this stuff was actually made as a mold release wax. This slips my mind but I thought I read it supposed to stand up to 250F without degradation.
I am old school so it is hard to "put it on thin" and if you let it haze over completely when it is a little heavy it is hard to remove.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Broceratops- No way is a FK1000P user gonna switch to Collinite unless dealing with one very specific/unusual situation 
More likely to work out the other way IMO. Heh heh, sorry...couldn't resist posting that as I just switched my '93 Audi (the one with *TRASHED* dark blue paint) over to the FK even though the 476S had some advantages going for it.
Thick 476S still buffs off easier than thick M16, but yeah...it's not the *easiest* wax when you get a lot on there. Though I still just do the whole vehicle before buffing it off. But hey, not like you're doing anything wrong by a long shot- 476S works great no matter how you do it, even W-O-W-O works fine if you don't mind a slight drop in durability.
skibik- yeah, Ron and I went back and forth on the layering...but FWIW my concerns were based on my first-hand (and *VERY* frustrating) experience. Ron's "eh, you should change how you wax, it's user-error" didn't, uhm...resonate with me. Heh heh, he also suggested I switch to cotton towels for buffing it off.
But hey, I *did* layer the stuff many times with no problems at all...worked until it didn't. Might work fine the next 500 times, but I'm just not gonna take the chance.
I respect the [heck] out of Ron Ketcham, real fountain of knowledge to whom I owe a big debt. But his experiences/opinions/etc. and mine aren't always identical.
And "yeah, exactly!" on the mold-release bit and the 250°F sounds right (if anything I'd think that's a tad low). Ron told me that stuff when explaining how the late Floyd Meguiar had developed FK1000P as a competitor to his famous family's wax products. Ol' Floyd sounded like a...uhm, interesting character.
Speaking of differing experiences, I find it interesting when people have to work to buff off kinda-thick applications of FK1000P. Maybe I'm juse used to struggling with over-applied M16 (heh heh, I can't seem to discuss one of those products without mentioning the other!), but even when I go goofy-thick with the FK1000P and let it sit for a few hours it seems to buff off easy as can be!
edb- My usual advice is to wait until the next wash. But on my '93 Audi I just let it sit in the garage for about a week and did a second layer then. You could probably just not wait long at all and still do fine..."do you feel lucky?" and all that
ShawnF350- I liked seeing the GM! Which white is that...Performance White? Any "bad factory paint" issues with it? I like that it has the black "B" pillars (don't overdo the polishing of those..)! And the cornering lights are a nice plus (oughta convert a set to fit my Crown Vic some day). Now (since I can't stop spending your money) get a relayed headlight harness before your Light Conrol Module's [crappy] foactory relays go bad and leave you without lights (or did you do an external relay on the LCM already?). The relayed harness will also *drastically* improve the headlight output too, like you wouldn't believe until you see it.
Those cars are the [stuff] when it comes to "vehicle for the money" IMO, oughta get more appreciation than they do.
More likely to work out the other way IMO. Heh heh, sorry...couldn't resist posting that as I just switched my '93 Audi (the one with *TRASHED* dark blue paint) over to the FK even though the 476S had some advantages going for it.Thick 476S still buffs off easier than thick M16, but yeah...it's not the *easiest* wax when you get a lot on there. Though I still just do the whole vehicle before buffing it off. But hey, not like you're doing anything wrong by a long shot- 476S works great no matter how you do it, even W-O-W-O works fine if you don't mind a slight drop in durability.
skibik- yeah, Ron and I went back and forth on the layering...but FWIW my concerns were based on my first-hand (and *VERY* frustrating) experience. Ron's "eh, you should change how you wax, it's user-error" didn't, uhm...resonate with me. Heh heh, he also suggested I switch to cotton towels for buffing it off.
But hey, I *did* layer the stuff many times with no problems at all...worked until it didn't. Might work fine the next 500 times, but I'm just not gonna take the chance.
I respect the [heck] out of Ron Ketcham, real fountain of knowledge to whom I owe a big debt. But his experiences/opinions/etc. and mine aren't always identical.
And "yeah, exactly!" on the mold-release bit and the 250°F sounds right (if anything I'd think that's a tad low). Ron told me that stuff when explaining how the late Floyd Meguiar had developed FK1000P as a competitor to his famous family's wax products. Ol' Floyd sounded like a...uhm, interesting character.
Speaking of differing experiences, I find it interesting when people have to work to buff off kinda-thick applications of FK1000P. Maybe I'm juse used to struggling with over-applied M16 (heh heh, I can't seem to discuss one of those products without mentioning the other!), but even when I go goofy-thick with the FK1000P and let it sit for a few hours it seems to buff off easy as can be!
edb- My usual advice is to wait until the next wash. But on my '93 Audi I just let it sit in the garage for about a week and did a second layer then. You could probably just not wait long at all and still do fine..."do you feel lucky?" and all that
ShawnF350- I liked seeing the GM! Which white is that...Performance White? Any "bad factory paint" issues with it? I like that it has the black "B" pillars (don't overdo the polishing of those..)! And the cornering lights are a nice plus (oughta convert a set to fit my Crown Vic some day). Now (since I can't stop spending your money) get a relayed headlight harness before your Light Conrol Module's [crappy] foactory relays go bad and leave you without lights (or did you do an external relay on the LCM already?). The relayed harness will also *drastically* improve the headlight output too, like you wouldn't believe until you see it.
Those cars are the [stuff] when it comes to "vehicle for the money" IMO, oughta get more appreciation than they do.
skibik
New member
Accumulator- it really wasn't too bad to take off. What I notice is that it gets grabby with the towel when you first attack it. It is not as bad as I remember trying to take off Turtle Wax hardshell in the green can back in the 70's when I was a kid. I won't go back to cotton towels, actually wouldn't make sense for me since I spent a butt load on MF towels. I guess the reason I always did a 2nd coat was the insurance that everthing was coated. It is too much work and just wasn't up to doing a 2nd coat this year. I made in with one last year so went with that again.
@Accumulator
The car has some repaint in areas I'm guessing. According to my paint gauge. The hood and fenders were probably redone. This car had heavy swirls everywhere.
I've minimized them but I can actually see scratches and sanding marks under existing clear. Even on the trunk.
But no paint failing problems.
I looked into the headlights.
Wow..They run the load side of the headlamps thru the multifunction switch. (Turn signal gadget)
I'm ordering a harness today.
Even after changing the headlights with new clear lenses they are still not putting light out like I expect.
I upgraded Wagner 9007BL. The BLs are really bright in my Explorer.
Gonna see what the voltage is tonight and temp wire a new lamp socket to the battery and see how one looks compared to the other.
The car has some repaint in areas I'm guessing. According to my paint gauge. The hood and fenders were probably redone. This car had heavy swirls everywhere.
I've minimized them but I can actually see scratches and sanding marks under existing clear. Even on the trunk.
But no paint failing problems.
I looked into the headlights.
Wow..They run the load side of the headlamps thru the multifunction switch. (Turn signal gadget)
I'm ordering a harness today.
Even after changing the headlights with new clear lenses they are still not putting light out like I expect.
I upgraded Wagner 9007BL. The BLs are really bright in my Explorer.
Gonna see what the voltage is tonight and temp wire a new lamp socket to the battery and see how one looks compared to the other.
Accumulator
Well-known member
skibic- It occurs to me that these days I always fog the surface with by breath when buffing off the FK1000P. Wonder if that makes it even easier than I think it does, might explain why I find the stuff so easy to buff off (even when applied thickly to really trashed paint like I tried on the '93 Audi).
ShawnF350- Nice thing about white is that only Autopians will ever notice any sanding marks/etc.
Lucky you that it's not failing, that paint is notorious for just peeling off. Eh, that might explain some of the paintwork.
Check the voltage at the headlight connection and you'll be sold on upgrading to the relayed harness
There's a guy at CrownVic.net who posts under BH1976. He makes a *GREAT* harness that's not too pricey. Better than I could ever DIY and way better than the ones on Ebay. There are a few little tweaks you gotta do on certain GMs because they have sorta weird boots where the headlight connections are, have to see what you need in that regard. Nothing that's *too* tough to sort out, but some GMs (no idea why it's only some of 'em) are just a bit more complicated in that regard than Crown Vics are.
BTW, that multifunction switch is kinda pricey! I had rapid-turn signal issues on my previous Crown Vic that ended up being caused by that (*not* by all the usual suspects I spent forever checking out).
ShawnF350- Nice thing about white is that only Autopians will ever notice any sanding marks/etc.
Lucky you that it's not failing, that paint is notorious for just peeling off. Eh, that might explain some of the paintwork.
Check the voltage at the headlight connection and you'll be sold on upgrading to the relayed harness
There's a guy at CrownVic.net who posts under BH1976. He makes a *GREAT* harness that's not too pricey. Better than I could ever DIY and way better than the ones on Ebay. There are a few little tweaks you gotta do on certain GMs because they have sorta weird boots where the headlight connections are, have to see what you need in that regard. Nothing that's *too* tough to sort out, but some GMs (no idea why it's only some of 'em) are just a bit more complicated in that regard than Crown Vics are.
BTW, that multifunction switch is kinda pricey! I had rapid-turn signal issues on my previous Crown Vic that ended up being caused by that (*not* by all the usual suspects I spent forever checking out).
skibic- It occurs to me that these days I always fog the surface with by breath when buffing off the FK1000P. Wonder if that makes it even easier than I think it does, might explain why I find the stuff so easy to buff off (even when applied thickly to really trashed paint like I tried on the '93 Audi).
ShawnF350- Nice thing about white is that only Autopians will ever notice any sanding marks/etc.
Lucky you that it's not failing, that paint is notorious for just peeling off. Eh, that might explain some of the paintwork.
Check the voltage at the headlight connection and you'll be sold on upgrading to the relayed harness
There's a guy at CrownVic.net who posts under BH1976. He makes a *GREAT* harness that's not too pricey. Better than I could ever DIY and way better than the ones on Ebay. There are a few little tweaks you gotta do on certain GMs because they have sorta weird boots where the headlight connections are, have to see what you need in that regard. Nothing that's *too* tough to sort out, but some GMs (no idea why it's only some of 'em) are just a bit more complicated in that regard than Crown Vics are.
BTW, that multifunction switch is kinda pricey! I had rapid-turn signal issues on my previous Crown Vic that ended up being caused by that (*not* by all the usual suspects I spent forever checking out).
I'm one step ahead. Already replaced the multifunction sw.
The turn signals wouldn't cancel. That drives me crazy.
Thanks for the info. Found a Putco harness but will check into the .net one.
If you want to know how to communicate with every module in those cars without a high end scanner shoot me s PM.
marinesoup
New member
Tempted to try another Wax....Collinite or other? For coming winter long prot...
I just bought the same size tin of FK.
That tin will last you and your family a life time ( and maybe a few friends )
I just bought the same size tin of FK.
That tin will last you and your family a life time ( and maybe a few friends )
I finally got the chance to put fk1000p on my car last week. Originally i wasn't super impressed with the slickness, even though it did look nice. However, a few days later i was getting out of the car and wow did the slickness bump up. It hasnt seen water yet so no beading checks. Hoping it lives up to to its winter rep. So far so good. 
As far as usage goes, i think i managed to use most of the little crumbs of product on top of the wax in the tin.
As far as usage goes, i think i managed to use most of the little crumbs of product on top of the wax in the tin.
Vegas1
Member
Re: Tempted to try another Wax....Collinite or other? For coming winter long prot...
I purchased this can back in 2006. I only use FK 1000P once a year as my winter prep and apply 2 coats on both mine and the wife's car. I guess what I learned back in 2006 still apply's today - a little goes a long way.
The wax is still in fantastic shape even after 9 years. It hasn't dried out or cracked, is still soft as far as FK 1000P goes and is easy to apply and remove.
Enjoy.
I purchased this can back in 2006. I only use FK 1000P once a year as my winter prep and apply 2 coats on both mine and the wife's car. I guess what I learned back in 2006 still apply's today - a little goes a long way.
The wax is still in fantastic shape even after 9 years. It hasn't dried out or cracked, is still soft as far as FK 1000P goes and is easy to apply and remove.
Enjoy.
Attachments
All I can say is when I left work a few times with a bird dropping or two, by the time I get home I can't find it. It blows off on the ride home.I finally got the chance to put fk1000p on my car last week. Originally i wasn't super impressed with the slickness, even though it did look nice. However, a few days later i was getting out of the car and wow did the slickness bump up. It hasnt seen water yet so no beading checks. Hoping it lives up to to its winter rep. So far so good.
You won't believe it until you experience it.
I hope it works that well for me to, that is awsome! Is that with 2 coats? Did the second coat seem to change anything for you, or is it more just coverage insurance?
Tpr1634
New member
For what it cost it's awesome, why spend way more?
Ronkh
Wax Waster
Accumulator
Well-known member
And IME (!YMMV!) when the bird-bombs do stick they don't etch through the FK1000P even if I leave them on there for a while. Best etching protection I've ever had, right up there with heavily (and I mean *HEAVILY*) layered KSG.