Techniques for D300?

S

sc_S13

New member
Any tips for using the new Meguiar's MF system? I just got the D300 want to use it on my Evo and my roommates Evo, wonder if I should treat it with the same Kevin Brown method or if it needs less working time like the 205.
I have read that it needs very very little product after priming. Can I still use a nylon brush to clean? I can't afford to buy an air compressor after all my sunk costs for my amateur set up lol
 
I don't have a compressor either. I simly use a multi-purpose MF towel to keep it fluffed. I haven't used D300 by itself in a while so I don't recall how long I worked it. The big key is the pressure, or lack thereof, you use. If you put pressure on it like you do a foam pad it will affect your results.
 
sc_S13 said:
Any tips for using the new Meguiar's MF system? I just got the D300 want to use it on my Evo and my roommates Evo, wonder if I should treat it with the same Kevin Brown method or if it needs less working time like the 205.
I have read that it needs very very little product after priming. Can I still use a nylon brush to clean? I can't afford to buy an air compressor after all my sunk costs for my amateur set up lol
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Tips:

Prime the pad thoroughly. Spread a thin, even coating of product over the pad and allow it to set up for 5-10 minutes, then blow or brush off the excess before getting started.

Brush your pad after every section. In fact you can stop (after buffing the section), brush your pad out, and then go over the area 2 more times using less speed and firm pressure (speed four). You will improve the finish.

Work a small section at a time, use slow arm speed (about 1 inch per second) and firm (not hard pressure).
 
embolism said:
can it be spritzed with distilled water to reactivate or is that a recipe for splatter?
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You can mist some water onto the pad and begin working, I have done this before and so far no issues. Just start at a lower speed and then work your way up.

I used this system before I had an air compressor and it was great but with an air compressor your life becomes that much easier. You can blow out the pad after every section and it helps keep the fibers clean and fluffed up.

I like to clean out the pad/[ads full with soap and water after I have done several big section, with an air compressor I just blow out the water and start fresh. Without one it takes a while to get those pads dry.
 
Street Dreams said:
You can mist some water onto the pad and begin working, I have done this before and so far no issues. Just start at a lower speed and then work your way up.

I used this system before I had an air compressor and it was great but with an air compressor your life becomes that much easier. You can blow out the pad after every section and it helps keep the fibers clean and fluffed up.

I like to clean out the pad/[ads full with soap and water after I have done several big section, with an air compressor I just blow out the water and start fresh. Without one it takes a while to get those pads dry.
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I've read a thread where someone cleaned their pad and then just let it spin on 6 until fairly dry before continuing work. Would this be bad for the fibers? I just can't afford to buy anything else for detailing, I've already dropped wayyyy too much for a beginning hobbyist :-P I need to trade my 7 " pads and backing plates away...they're useless to me. All those Meg's package deals led me astray :redface:

Todd Helme said:
Tips:

Prime the pad thoroughly. Spread a thin, even coating of product over the pad and allow it to set up for 5-10 minutes, then blow or brush off the excess before getting started.

Brush your pad after every section. In fact you can stop (after buffing the section), brush your pad out, and then go over the area 2 more times using less speed and firm pressure (speed four). You will improve the finish.

Work a small section at a time, use slow arm speed (about 1 inch per second) and firm (not hard pressure).
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Okay so start on 5 and work on down to 4? How long of working time does it require?
 
Well I start on 6, make about 6 passes over the section (until the polish appears to loose cut or the defects are removed).

At this point you have two options.

If you need more cut give the pad or the paint a light mist with water and continue polishing. I don't know if I would agree with the term 'reactivate the abrasives' but it will knock some loose and increase the cutting action.

If you are happy with the finish then clean the pad and reduce your speed to 4 or 5. Make 1 to 2 extra passes over the surface. The slower orbital speed will 'soften' the pattern a DA makes on the paint which will result in a finer finish. It may still need (likely will still need) a final polishing step but just barely.
 
I had some teething issues with the early MF pads, but I've used them countless times now with excellent results. I will usually start off using speed 5 with light/moderate pressure using slow passes and see what sort of finish that will get me, if there are still some deeper defects I will continue with speed 6 with moderate/firm pressure (PC7424). If there are some deeper still defects (too deep to be removed) or a hazy finish I will give it a spritz of water or M34 and work that for a few slow passes at speed 4. This will generally knock out the swirls and smooth out the RIDS and leave a finish that needs one more quick polishing step before being LSP ready.

As others have said, a clean pad is essential to getting consistent high quality results. I will run a stiff nylon brush against the pad after each section, and spray the pad with M34 or ONR after about every 3 sections and clean it out by running a MF cloth against the pad at speed 4 or 5. Again, an air compressor makes this process of keeping a pad clean so much easier, but is not essential. Without an air compressor, I would say you should use at least 4 clean pads per car.
 
CH.Detailing said:
I had some teething issues with the early MF pads, but I've used them countless times now with excellent results. I will usually start off using speed 5 with light/moderate pressure using slow passes and see what sort of finish that will get me, if there are still some deeper defects I will continue with speed 6 with moderate/firm pressure (PC7424). If there are some deeper still defects (too deep to be removed) or a hazy finish I will give it a spritz of water or M34 and work that for a few slow passes at speed 4. This will generally knock out the swirls and smooth out the RIDS and leave a finish that needs one more quick polishing step before being LSP ready.

As others have said, a clean pad is essential to getting consistent high quality results. I will run a stiff nylon brush against the pad after each section, and spray the pad with M34 or ONR after about every 3 sections and clean it out by running a MF cloth against the pad at speed 4 or 5. Again, an air compressor makes this process of keeping a pad clean so much easier, but is not essential. Without an air compressor, I would say you should use at least 4 clean pads per car.
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Great advice Connor!
 
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