teaching to detail w/ rotary

D

Detailing NY

New member
teaching to detail w/ rotary

OK, here is where i need some good advice. I have been detailing for about 11 years. I have jason working for me and he is great. He can use the PC really well, I want to get him started on a rotary buffer. I am getting the Dewalt as my other rotary is gone. I can use the rotary with no problem and i know once jason learns how to use it he will not have a problem as well.

My problem is i suck a teaching people how to use it. For some reason I cant teach some one how to use the rotary. I can show them how to hold hit and how to move around, but other then that everything comes second nature to me.

I want to get jason on a rotary soon......

please post you replys on the best way for me to teach him.

One idea i got is, i will take a old hood from a body shop and have him practice on it, so he can learn the power it has and how to move around without buring or swirling the paint.

anyone got any other ideas.

thanks in advance

Brian
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by NY detailer [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
One idea i got is, i will take a old hood from a body shop and have him practice on it, so he can learn the power it has and how to move around without buring or swirling the paint.
[/b]</blockquote>
Or let him work on your car... I'm sure if he's swirling away with a rotary on your car then you'll learn how to teach him quickly :D
 
Brian,



The old hood is a great idea. You should let him watch you and then you can watch him correcting him until his technique is very close to your own.



The basics as you know are:

Keep the cord up over your shoulder off the surface and away from thr buffer.

Apply minimal pressure as the weight of the machine is plenty.

Spread the product with the machine off.

Feather the trigger a few times to further spread the product over the 2x2 area.

Then work the product with stretched out figure 8's from front to back then side to side keeping the buffer as flat as possible i.e. about a 5-10degree tilt and focus most of your attention on the 12o'clock and 3 o'clock position.

Take some of the weight off the machine for the final passes.

Don't use speeds greater than 1500rpm's.

Keep the buffer moving at all times.

Don't dry buff.



That's about it the rest is just getting use to the power. Good luck!







:xyxthumbs
 
1. First and formost, faster is NOT better.

2.Don't use a white wool 4 ply twisted pad for ANYTHING on a modern clearcoat, they are way to agressive and will chew the s#$@ out of it.

3. When starting on a panel "cut in the edges" first.

4. Keep the pad flat as possible and use a 3 degree angle when needed. (Around edges)

5. Use a consistant buffing pattern, I like the cross hatch pattern myself.

6. Make sure pad is centered on backing plate properly for good pad ballance.

I'm sure I think of some more, but those are the basics I can think of off the top of my head. Jason, if you have any questions feel free to shoot me an e-mail and I'll do my best to answer. ShowroomLincoln@autopia.cc :xyxthumbs
 
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