talk to me about MF pads....

It can't work perfect every time. Thank god for choices. The reason why when I do mobile jobs I try bringing multiple different products. Glad you liked HD Polish! 
 
JuneBug said:
MF pads have been proven to work better by some of the top detailers. That said, here's the grain of salt - some guys promote one brand over another because they get either pay or freebies (oh the humanity!) so, my advice is to ask someone on your level what they tried and what they like. Remember, if you ask 10 detailers what is the best polish - you'll get 10 different answers. OK, me? I tried Megs, CG aka Optimum and Buff & Shine. The Megs were the first version and didn't last long, it's a real pisser to lose a pad and a backing plate at the same time, I heard they are better now. The CG's delaminted in my wash/soak bucket - yes really..


Buff & Shine - what can I say, I am now a convert, I like their MF pads and their foam pads the best. I was a Lake Country guy for years but no more. Now, I detail on the weekends, I use a PCXP and use compressed air to clean the pads between panals. YMMV
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How does the aggressiveness/cut of the B&S MF Finishing pad compare with the B&S Orange foam pad??
 
David Fermani- Yeah, I hear you on the advantages of having numerous options.  And regarding the Cut, it wouldn't surprise me if some "look, do it this way instead..."-type advice from somebody more accustomed to it could've helped me out.  For some reason the whole "correction with M105" process just clicked with me and has set a benchmark.


 


Yeah, the Polish was everything one could ask for.  Anybody wanna buy a gallon or so of M205?!?  Doubt I'll ever use that oily [stuff] again.
 
"How does the aggressiveness/cut of the B&S MF Finishing pad compare with the B&S Orange foam pad??"


 


I had a chance to use both on a 2001 Toyota Tacoma this past Saturday. The truck was washed, clayed (had paint overspray and the usual suspects) then my old friend Mr. Waterspot remained at the party. Actually, Mr. Oxidation was there too, so, after treating with 3D Eraser, the waterspots were less, kinda larger, and flat and mainly on the top. The owner was graciously letting me use his wonderful shop with heat (it was in the upper 20's outside) and he and I discussed the situation. I can remove all the spots, BUT - this IS a 13 year old truck and it may thin the clear to the limit. He agreed that most folks can't see the top anyway, and they only look bad under the best lighting conditions. So, I tried B&S MF and Orange foam, HD Adapt, M101, D300 and combo's of all. The best was a fresh MF pad with Adapt. Now, we didn't have compressed air and the pads were loading up bad, brushing only works so well. I can say the MF cut better and actually finished well, the orange did ok, but didn't impress me enough to keep using. I went back with KAIO on LC green, then topped with BFWD


So - I know it's a bit of a cop out, but, I'd say buy a few pads of each. You will have cases where one will work better than the other and sometimes it's the foam. You have so many factors that it never hurts to be prepared for everything. I will say that this was the first time I used Adapt and I was impressed and I don't impress easy, it work great and the only tip I'd add is don't use too much, especially after Eraser - got a little gummy but KAIO took care of that.



 
 
Accumulator said:
 For some reason the whole "correction with M105" process just clicked with me and has set a benchmark.


 
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I totally agree. It's probably the most relevant compound to hit the market and has certainly set the bar for most competing compounds to meet/beat. 
 
David Fermani- And, heh heh, I've always felt that its quick/limited work time caters to my desire for instant gratification ;)  I know it bugs some people, but it's just how I like such stuff to work.
 
I think what bugs most people about M105 is the dust and how it *can* cement up in the cracks at times. Regardless, I've never seen this dust mar the finish. Just gotta do an extra clean up step after. Not a big deal for me considering how great the results can be. 
 
Well, I gotta say that I get some micromarring from the wipe-off every time I use M105.  Every. Single. Time.  Usually takes a lot of work with the SunGun to see it, but it's there. 


 


Yeah, user-error, huh?  Barry and I have gone around and around about it (he can finish with the stuff!?!) but it's just how it goes for me.  Not a huge deal as I always finish with something else anyhow, but still....
 
If - "Usually takes a lot of work with the SunGun to see it,"


Maybe you should lighten up, I'm worried you are getting a little too OCD!
 
JuneBug- Heh heh Mike Philips said the same kind of thing.  But stuff that "only shows up" (readily) under the SunGun *does* show up under some natural-light conditions and I'm not gonna risk it.


 


Eh, I'm not all *that* obsessive about this stuff, but certain things like micromarring/holograms/wash-induced marring just scream "doesn't know his [stuff[!" to me and I won't drive something like that.
 
David Fermani said:
I think what bugs most people about M105 is the dust and how it *can* cement up in the cracks at times. Regardless, I've never seen this dust mar the finish. Just gotta do an extra clean up step after. Not a big deal for me considering how great the results can be. 
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This is where doing the heavy lifting upfront saves tons of time on the backend. A really good tape job protecting trim, rubber seals(more so the door seals between panel gaps in context) and around light housings will prevent a lot of that. I think a lot of guys rush the prep work and want to get to correction so bad that they end up with a mess at the end.
 
I use M101 more often now, doesn't dust like 105 but I still have 105 in the bag cause sometimes it just works when nothing else will- go figure. Todd Helme did a article years ago about how to use and finish with 105, if you follow his advice you too can do it.
 
JuneBug- Nah, *I* can't do it and I've tried everything that Helm/Theal/you-name-it has suggested.


 


How do you like the M101?  Does it really cut a lot better than M105?
 
Hey guys, hate to jump in here kind of out pf nowhere, but ive noticed a few things in here that may help me make a decision on which MFs to go with on my next order.


The ones I use now are Meg's cutting disc and finishing disc. I absolutely love them and rarely use foam now.


I noticed someone said the B&S pads are really high quality, but someone else said they use meg's for cutting power and B&S for "medium duty."


I REALLY want something higher quality than Meg's. The maroon MF cutting disc started to delaminate the first time I used it and just keeps getting worse. I do have the newer version I believe (with the stamped back.)


I guess my only question really is: would the quality of the B&S pads be enough to make up for the lost cutting power of the MEGS cutting disc?
 
Go with the B&S pads, Megs "may" in the right hands and under perfect conditions, may cut a little faster but it would be as significant as a fart in a F5 tornado. Now, B&S are much thicker, and much tougher, just clean whichever you decide on with compressed air between panels.
 
JuneBug said:
MF pads have been proven to work better by some of the top detailers. That said, here's the grain of salt - some guys promote one brand over another because they get either pay or freebies (oh the humanity!) so, my advice is to ask someone on your level what they tried and what they like. Remember, if you ask 10 detailers what is the best polish - you'll get 10 different answers. OK, me? I tried Megs, CG aka Optimum and Buff & Shine. The Megs were the first version and didn't last long, it's a real pisser to lose a pad and a backing plate at the same time, I heard they are better now. 


 
Click to expand...


 


Yes there was a delamination issue (which is fixed )with the first generation of Megs pads BUT they replaced every one that was brought to their attention.


 


I stick with the Megs pads because:


1] When Meg's releases something they pretty much guaranteed to have done more R&D on it than anyone else. This is one reason why certain items they release seem to be years behind the curve. I happen to know for a fact that many products they have released in the last 4-6 years have 2-3 years of testing into them. So they do not rush a product to market in order to increase quarterly revenues. Plus megs is the innovator of the MF pad, since they developed it based many conversations directly with Claude Sevigny [the actual innovator of the MF pad] design for fixing factory defects quickly and effeciently.


2] They pretty much unanimously have the greatest cutting ability of any pad on the market. And for me, thats THE most important aspect i am looking for from a MF pad. I can finesse many other pads to cross labor, but i bring out the big guns when i need to dip into leveling some clear coat nastiness.


3] I think it is VERY important that a MF pad is a true white. This way you can constantly be monitoring the progress of spent residue and removed particulates from the corrected surface.<u> Also, it is easier to monitor the condition of the pad throughout its life and see the TRUE cleanliness of a pad. IMO this is a CRUCIAL thing when doing any sort of polishing.</u> Removal of spent product and paint particulate is CRITICAL to a perfect finish and it greatly speeds up cutting to boot.
 
You may use Meguiars DA Microfiber. Its Correction System is a two-step process designed to correct paint without leaving any swirls. These pads are re-usable so wash them after applications and keep using them for years. This pad utilizes microfiber threads on the surface as opposed to traditional foam and wool based pads.
 
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