System One? Jay Leno

I'm in no way promoting sanding by hand, just stating that in *some* applications (runs / dirt etc. for example in a body shop environment) you can without problems. Again, proper technique is essential to eliminate finger marks/highs & lows.
 
The guy that is in the videos is Tom who invented the product and he is a body shop guy .Hence the old school technique .So far from the limited use of the product so far it works as advertised.
 
I must have sanded 30-40 cars working after school - all by hand. I would wet sand with 320, then switch to 360-400, then rinse. Then the car would be primed, sanded again, wiped down with a solvent, taped, wiped down with a tac rag and then sprayed. This was the 70's and we're talking single stage enamel or lacquer. If you learn the technique, you won't have issues with sanding by hand - other than your hands, especially your fingers will be extra sensitive. I think as far as wet sanding today with the 1000-2000 grit paper, you would have less of a problem with uneven pressure from your fingers since the paper is so fine. I just haven't had a detail that required sanding - yet.
 
JuneBug said:
I must have sanded 30-40 cars working after school - all by hand. I would wet sand with 320, then switch to 360-400, then rinse. Then the car would be primed, sanded again, wiped down with a solvent, taped, wiped down with a tac rag and then sprayed. This was the 70's and we're talking single stage enamel or lacquer. If you learn the technique, you won't have issues with sanding by hand - other than your hands, especially your fingers will be extra sensitive. I think as far as wet sanding today with the 1000-2000 grit paper, you would have less of a problem with uneven pressure from your fingers since the paper is so fine. I just haven't had a detail that required sanding - yet.
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If you do need to sand in the future Jimmy....use a block. ;)
 
VaSuperShine said:
If you do need to sand in the future Jimmy....use a block. ;)
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Exactly, also Jimmy is talking about sanding paint off completely whereas this guy was wet-sanding to remove scratches.
 
I went this morning for a few hrs and meet Toto and a few of AG people too. The system one polish work good and i ask if he could do a 50/50 wipe down and to check and it did but i didn't know whats in the bottle that he use. I also saw a black SUV that they did yesterday (door panel) and it remove about 80% of some scratches the was deep (i was told). Wish i could see it in a few weeks after it gets wash but that's impossible. I also saw alot of PDR people and headlight restoration vendor's too. Also there was quite of few leather and vinyl repair folks too. I was talking to the folks at the optimum booth and Kevin who was there for them was very informer about the products and i got a few samples from him also, also attended a class on polishing and was told that one doesn't need to use wool pads ( I said to myself....right :chuckle: ) overall a few vendors were great and some didn't care about my questions at all. I was told that Sunday ( the last day) if one wants to attended it cost 100.00 bucks, but it's for a full day of polishing. I also met a rep. for AM and ask about a product that i use back in the early 80's and found out the they still had it, so i will call him next week to order it and drop off at the dealer for me. Overall it was a good day to see some products and see some hackers that i know but don't recommend to my customers.:chuckle:
 
I know Todd and a few others were there for the demo, or whatnot, I didn't gather much info from Todd, maybe he will give you his take.
 
VaSuperShine said:
I know Todd and a few others were there for the demo, or whatnot, I didn't gather much info from Todd, maybe he will give you his take.
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I will just say that I was less then impressed...
 
TH0001 said:
I will just say that I was less then impressed...
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I think I can speak for all when I say... can you elaborate?! Why were you unimpressed? The pics from Toto in that post on AG looked pretty impressive to me.



Please elaborate.
 
danponjican said:
I think I can speak for all when I say... can you elaborate?! Why were you unimpressed? The pics from Toto in that post on AG looked pretty impressive to me.



Please elaborate.
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Not to take this out of context but what's so impressive about sanding paint down and removing it with the same product you finish with? I would advise you try out the same routine with pretty much ANY polish you have in your collection.



Step one: Wetsand with 2000 grit paper ( Well that's more than one step but those who know how it's pretty open shut)



Step two: Polish with ____(insert polish there) and a wool pad



Step three: Polish with same product, and finishing pad.



Pretty simple, and the good thing is most high end polishes many of you all have in your garage will to the trick. Have fun.
 
Now there is a problem with the above instructions, if you want a truly refined finish, there are at least one steps you're not treating your finish to, then again depending on whose eyes are on it, I guess it really doesn't matter.
 
You're 100% correct on the single product doing that. I've used Meguiar's #83 for a long time with that very process and got very good results.



In the case of our shop where reconditioning the paint is the process: We were using 3 different products from 3M and narrowed it down to 1 or 2 (2 in the case of Ultrafina SE which is chiefly for Black/Dark colored BMW's)



Also, you can use the Menzerna 106 product to further refine a polish.



In my case, the 3M compound is very abrasive and requires a power wash before going to step 2 and that involves vehicle moves in our shop.



Toto



BTW: great to finally meet you!
 
So, if you do the 2 System One steps and super final finish out with a micro polish (106ff / Ultrafina, etc), is that end result any different than using any other system or product combo? If not, I can see a possiblilty of this product/system saving alot of time?
 
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