synthetic vs. carnauba

thanks guys, i've never gotten as much responce on a forum before...i'll post some pics in a min of the current shine after i "spitshined" it today
 
Buffed with Poli-seal, sealed with Opti-seal



22151950051_large.jpg
 
zack.s said:
theres a ton of boating supply stores here...would i apply that as a sealant or what?



and i've never tried mothers products other than the claybar kit, but i think the local oreily's has some...i might just pick up the synwax and the nxt 2.0....liquid or paste tho? cuz i'm not really partial to either one just want the best shine
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Paste or liquid is not much of a difference.

As for collinite, I bought my first #885 from a boating store so definitely look around.



It helps if you provide your general location, you might actually be close to a warehouse, store or lab and might uncover some hidden gems :)
 
From those pictures, especially the last one, your truck needs some good heavy polishing. White is such a horrible color for that, since you can't REALLY see the swirl marks as well as others, it gets ignored for FAR longer and becomes MUCH worse than other colors!



I would suggest a compounding step, then a polish, then a finishing polish, then any sealant/carnauba you pick will look amazing.



My personal favorite is Meguiars #16 Paste wax...



Collinite 476S is also VERY good and lasts FOREVER!
 
right now i have some meguiars swirl remover 2.0, and ultimate compound along with cleaner wax and quik wax...i've been told that buffing with the cleaner wax, followed by the compound and then the swirl remover with a coat of carnauba over the top would also work
 
zack.s said:
right now i have some meguiars swirl remover 2.0, and ultimate compound along with cleaner wax and quik wax...i've been told that buffing with the cleaner wax, followed by the compound and then the swirl remover with a coat of carnauba over the top would also work
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Sorry, but what is "ultimate compound"?



Cleaner wax is basically just a very light polish, with fillers, and a bit of wax thrown in... it really doesn't "fix" anything except the lightest of swirl marks.



Swirl remover 2.0 is also a very LIGHT polish, if used with a rotary it can take out light to medium swirls, but it also contains a lot of fillers so it may look great when you finish, a week later it will have worn off.



Do you have a machine to polish with? Porter Cable polisher preferably?



If not you need to get one, because fixing your paint cannot be done by hand...
 
I think carnauba is the best product available for protecting palm trees. I wouldn't use a chemically derived polymer product since that might not allow the leaves to breathe. I think the high end carnaubas such as the Zymols with exotic oils would soften the leaves enough to allow for a bit more additional flex due to wind without the potential for drying and cracking.:bigups
 
you just confused the heck outta me...also, what in those pix, especailly the last one gives it away that it needs polishing?
 
Well it is 2 things...



One, all the pictures are at extreme angles, which captures reflectivity fairly well it does nothing for depth or clarity of the paint itself...



And at the bottom middle where the sun hits the paint on the last picture, you can kind of see a glowing of where there appears to be deep spiderwebbing... Unfortunatly the angle of the picture prevents being able to see the direct sunlight on a flat surface...
 
I use primarily use sealants . Almost exclusively DuraGloss.



Very very high value , does not stain trim all products I have been impressed with. Made by and designed by actual chemists. I do use some other odds and ends , but that is usually FinishKare . IMO they are the only one's that live up to the "boutique" bunch of xxxx on here . I also give Everette / Clearkote a excellent nod id you going into the carnuba blended area. To me these 3 companies have provided outstanding value , service and quality. Zack if you cannot find any DG stuff I'll send you a few samples to try if your tight on cash. I know how it is to by the "flavor of the month" and spend way to much money and it does not produce what you like. There are a ton of those products on here.. Good luck, Mike.
 
Unfortunately I'm not familiar with that location.



Hopefully others know.



Hopefully you feel you have quite a few choices to choose from.



The fun part is experimenting.



zack.s said:
and i'm inbetween memphis and jackson tn
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Zach, firstly, welcome to Autopia. :welcome



Secondly, from the products you own I'd start with Megs Ultimate Compound (by all reports an excellent product) then follow with Megs Swirl Remover 2.0 to bring out a higher gloss level.



(Btw, what polisher a you intending to use?)



Finally, I'd top it with FX Synwax...probably the best OTC sealant for white - lots of bling!
 
zack s.- You *already have* the SRP, right? All this talk of buying new/different products has me :hairpull The wax/etc. part of this isn't all that consequential. I'd absolutely just use the SRP and whatever wax you already have. This is a classic case of letting the tail wag the dog IMO. Sheesh, I'm as particular as anybody and I think the SRP is really great stuff *especially* on something like a white truck.



Ok...sorry about the rant :o



If anything, you only one more/new product: you need something less abrasive than the Ultimate Compound but *more* abrasive than the Swirlmark Remover and/or the SRP. Maybe Meguiar's Swirl-X, maybe Scratch-X version 2.0.



If you can, I'd return that Swirlmark Remover.





zack.s said:
right now i have some meguiars swirl remover 2.0, and ultimate compound along with cleaner wax and quik wax...i've been told that buffing with the cleaner wax, followed by the compound and then the swirl remover with a coat of carnauba over the top would also work
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The above has things in the wrong order, and (at the risk of sounding pendantic or otherwise overly critical) I think you need to get a firm understanding of this stuff before you actually *do* anything.



Don't buff with the cleaner-wax first.



As Alfisti noted, you start with the Ultmate Compound (aggressive work) and then refine the finish with the Swirlmark Remover (gentle work).



BUT...the Swirlmark remover is *so* gentle that it won't do much of anything. It will leave fillers behind but the SRP will clean those off anyhow (and will leave fillers of its own). So this is where you sorta need the Swirl-X/Scratch-X v2.0.



BUT#2...try the Ultimate Compound on a limited area (*DO NOT* do the whole truck!! Figure out what works on a small area first!). Follow the directions. See how it looks after *just* that.



If it looks crappy, post back asking for help.



If it looks OK, try using the SRP on the same area. See how it looks.



It might need the product I suggested, it might look OK without it. IF it looks OK without it, just do the truck with the Ultimate Compound and then do it with the SRP. That'll be enough work for a while. After the next wash you can reapply the SRP (that'll go *VERY* fast and easy) and then top with your #26 wax if you want to.



If you don't have the SRP in hand yet, use the Swirlmark Remover after the Ultimate Compound and then top with your #26. By the time the SRP gets here you'll have had time to think about this stuff some more.
 
its going with a porter cable buffer....and yeah, i knew it was in the wrong order i was just typing it up ...no i don't have the srp yet but i have just ordered it....i was gonna get some scratch x anyway so i'll be sure to pic that up
 
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