SWR and foam pads

D

dougn

New member
i have experimented with SMR and a hitachi (1250 rpms and plenty of SMR) rotory for some time now on a black porsche. i have been able to remove fine scratches but no matter what i always end up with very light swirls. i'm wondering if a different pad (other than the 3M reccomended foam pad) would give better results? any ideas?.....showroom?
 
It could be the product you are using, try:



Meguiars Swirl Remover

http://www.properautocare.com/megsno9swirr.html



It could also be the way you use the polisher. I don't know what type of swirls you have. Are they the same size as the ones you are trying to remove? If so, you may not be using the polisher correctly. If they are very very small then it may be the product is not being worked in enough or it may be hazing; the hazing can be fixed by using All In One (a very mild cleaner) after the 3M SMR. If you just want to polish your car and not worry about using a weaker polish after the primary polish then I would suggest the Meguiars Swirl Remover which does not haze in the first place. It is a little less effective than the 3M SMR but I don't think it would be of any concern considering you are probaly trying to fix very light swirls in the first place.



Keep this topic updated, as more information is given hopefully a more detailed solution can be provided. :up
 
thanks for the reply



the swirls are evident because of the multi colored prism effect they produce. i didn't have swirls to begin with....i had scratches.



i don't have any hazing. the reason i say this is because i have had some hazing before when i used SMR with a cheap orbital wax remover so i can tell what it looks like....it was most evident under flouresents.
 
I used my PC to remove some swirls/spiderwebbing (present since day one) from the hood of my '02 black Porsche. I applied 3M Machine Glaze with CMA's Grey Finishing Pad, not their White Polishing Pad. You must work the product in VERY well, until it almost disappears completely. Initially, I worked the glaze in fairly well, and thought it had done all the work it could, but some hazing remained.:confused: Not 'till I worked it into almost a dust, that the wet finish came out.:xyxthumbs The same holds true when using a rotary. If you are working it in well enough already, switch to a soft finishing (wax applying) pad. I don't have to tell you that black paint is especially sensitive. Also, I had no problems with the glaze damaging the finishing pad. Now my paint looks the way it should have from day one.
 
I'll add to my above post; you must reduce pressure as the product starts to dry. I'm sure you knew that, but I shouldn't assume.
 
thanks for the help.



i looked for the grey finishing pad at CMA's site but i couln't figure it out. what's it made out of? i'll call them.
 
It should be under Buffer Accessories (either rotary or orbital), if I remember correctly. The grey finishing pad is like a foam, but it is very soft, almost velvet like. If you call, I'm sure they'll send you a catalog.
 
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