Swirls Marks on New Automobile

ebpcivicsi said:
This look *really* severe to have come from inproper wash tools/technique. I use the meguiars WWMF all the time without any marring. Honestly, that looks like someone slid a box across your trunk.



I would look into multiple sheepskin mitts, two buckets, and a soft approach to every motion that is made on the paint.



Before seeing the pics, I was going to suggest Meguiars #80. Now that I have seen what we are dealing with, I would think SSR2.5, then a final polish of your choice will be needed.



Are you sure that the paint is 100% clean before drying? Is there *any* dirt on the drying towel afterwards?



Where are you in TN and what type of car did you buy (helps diagnose the paint).
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I always final rinse the vehicle prior to pulling into the garage to dry. No noticeable dirty on the towel.



I do live in a neighborhood under construction = a lot of dirt in the air.





Located in Knoxville. BMW 330i.
 
Hmm, I would just have to say that it is wash induced, but IMO most likely comes from the chenille pad with too much pressure applied when washing. Or perhaps too large of an area with too much pressure + the "grit" contained in the mitt.



Are you *sure* that the pad is 100% cotton? Is it starting to "wick" or get close to the end of its' useful life?



I am just pulling at straws here...
 
TUD- Sorry to hear about (and see) the marring. Must be pretty frustrating. Some random thoughts follow:



Some of the damage probably happened before you got it. If you didn't take the wrapguard off yourself then somebody else *has* washed the car.



Washing without marring is very difficult. Get a foamgun and read up on how to use it.



NO way would I try to wash a vehicle with only one mitt, not even my garage queens that never get really dirty. Too easy for stuff to get trapped in the mitt and cause marring. Make sure you're using good mitts (I'd probably just buy a bunch of good sheepskin ones and relegate your current mitt to the wheels).



Use a high-lubricity shampoo. The cheap stuff is often pretty lousy IMO.



I doubt that the WW from Meg's is the problem. You could test it on an old CD- clean the CD and then rinse it. Dry it with the WW and see if the WW leaves any scratches. CDs are almost always softer than automotive paint so if it doesn't scratch the CD then it won't scratch your paint. But any dirt on the WW, or between it and the paint, *will* scratch.



Get a few polishes and see which one(s) you need to correct the problem. You might need one polish for the worst marks and still be able to use a milder one for the rest of the car. The Griot's orange pads are pretty mild but are thus safe and they last forever. The red waxing pad will last forever too. I wouldn't bother with Griot's Machine Polishes, there are better choices (I have extensive experience with the Machine Polishes ;) ).
 
Accumulator said:
TUD- Sorry to hear about (and see) the marring. Must be pretty frustrating. Some random thoughts follow:



Some of the damage probably happened before you got it. If you didn't take the wrapguard off yourself then somebody else *has* washed the car.



Washing without marring is very difficult. Get a foamgun and read up on how to use it.



NO way would I try to wash a vehicle with only one mitt, not even my garage queens that never get really dirty. Too easy for stuff to get trapped in the mitt and cause marring. Make sure you're using good mitts (I'd probably just buy a bunch of good sheepskin ones and relegate your current mitt to the wheels).



Use a high-lubricity shampoo. The cheap stuff is often pretty lousy IMO.



I doubt that the WW from Meg's is the problem. You could test it on an old CD- clean the CD and then rinse it. Dry it with the WW and see if the WW leaves any scratches. CDs are almost always softer than automotive paint so if it doesn't scratch the CD then it won't scratch your paint. But any dirt on the WW, or between it and the paint, *will* scratch.



Get a few polishes and see which one(s) you need to correct the problem. You might need one polish for the worst marks and still be able to use a milder one for the rest of the car. The Griot's orange pads are pretty mild but are thus safe and they last forever. The red waxing pad will last forever too. I wouldn't bother with Griot's Machine Polishes, there are better choices (I have extensive experience with the Machine Polishes ;) ).
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Thanks



My current plan is to purchase a varity of products. Just uncertain as to which ones. Currently thinking of purchasing SSR2, SSR2.5, Nattys Blue, maybe some Optimum Polish, 2 grit guards, and some LC pads (2 white & 2 red). Anything I should add or eliminate?
 
TUD- I hate to pass judgment on the mitt just from a picture. You could try pulling off a representative tuft of it and burning it. If it burns cleanly it's probably all cotton, if it burns with a nasty smell and/or melts then it's got synthetic in it and could be causing the marring. But at any rate, get a bunch of good mitts.



I'm not familiar with the LC red pad :confused: If anything, I'd get some light cutting pads since you can do most of your mild polishing with the orange ones from Griot's (and you can do your LSPing with the Griot's red).



I'm also not familiar with the SSR line, sorry I can't be of more help...people generally love the Optimum, so you're probably OK there.



I *would* buy a foamgun though. Check out Danase, one of the vendors here. Great price on an indispensable tool.
 
Accumulator said:
I doubt that the WW from Meg's is the problem. You could test it on an old CD- clean the CD and then rinse it. Dry it with the WW and see if the WW leaves any scratches. CDs are almost always softer than automotive paint so if it doesn't scratch the CD then it won't scratch your paint. But any dirt on the WW, or between it and the paint, *will* scratch.
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Accumulator, I just did as you suggested. No noticeable issues on the CD from the WW MF towel. I then tried the wash mitt. Very minor scratching, I mean very mirror. In direct sunlight nothing is really noticeable, but inside under my kitchen can lighting it is a little more noticeable, but still nothing major, at least not as bad as the car.
 
Did you test the mitt wet or dry ;) Remember that it'll be wet with carwash solution when you're washing (and dry cotton will often mar all sorts of surfaces).



Even though the CD is probably softer than your paint, *I* wouldn't use it if it marred the CD. FWIW, my BHBs don't mar them (when tested wet).
 
Accumulator said:
Did you test the mitt wet or dry ;) Remember that it'll be wet with carwash solution when you're washing (and dry cotton will often mar all sorts of surfaces).



Even though the CD is probably softer than your paint, *I* wouldn't use it if it marred the CD. FWIW, my BHBs don't mar them (when tested wet).
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Sorry, tested wet with soap.



BTW, I burned a piece. Burned very fast with little to no smell.



BHBs? :nixweiss
 
Ok, someone spell out a line of attack for me. I do not want to get too agressive as I do not want to remove a lot of clear coat. When the weather gets better (serious cold front coming through) I will test some of the products that I have on the trunk lid.
 
BHB = boar's hair brush



I'd try SSR2 (or equivalent) first with a polishing pad, and see how far that gets you. You may need to step up to SSR2.5.

If you prefer, you can just reduce the scratches and use a polish with fillers, such as: P21s GEPC, VM, or RMG. Apply a sealant or wax to keep the fillers in place.
 
White95Max said:
BHB = boar's hair brush



I'd try SSR2 (or equivalent) first with a polishing pad, and see how far that gets you. You may need to step up to SSR2.5.

If you prefer, you can just reduce the scratches and use a polish with fillers, such as: P21s GEPC, VM, or RMG. Apply a sealant or wax to keep the fillers in place.
Click to expand...





I have P21S and a friend thinks I should try it first before trying anything else, but as I told him "it will just fill it" and I don't know if that is what I want. It's obvious that on a dark colored automobile it is nearly impossible to avod marring and or swirl marks. Basically I am SOL becasue what ever I do will be a temp fix. Correct?



BTW, you think SSR1 would be a waste to purchase?
 
TUD said:
I have P21S and a friend thinks I should try it first before trying anything else, but as I told him "it will just fill it" and I don't know if that is what I want. It's obvious that on a dark colored automobile it is nearly impossible to avod marring and or swirl marks. Basically I am SOL becasue what ever I do will be a temp fix. Correct?



BTW, you think SSR1 would be a waste to purchase?
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With a proper washing technique, marring and swirls will be infrequent. And when they do happen, they will be very shallow and easy to polish out.



It's only a temporary fix if you use fillers, or I suppose if you have a bad washing technique.



There are many products under the P21s brand...are you talking about the same one I mentioned? P21s GEPC is the Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser. It's a gentle polish with lots of fillers.



No I don't think SSR1 would be a waste to purchase, but the reason I don't have any is because SSR2 or SSR2.5 usually leaves a haze-free finish after I'm done with it. So I don't need to use SSR1 afterward. I have other light polishes (like VM, RMG, #9, and GEPC) to use if I just have minor swirls to take care of.
 
White95Max said:
No I don't think SSR1 would be a waste to purchase, but the reason I don't have any is because SSR2 or SSR2.5 usually leaves a haze-free finish after I'm done with it. So I don't need to use SSR1 afterward. I have other light polishes (like VM, RMG, #9, and GEPC) to use if I just have minor swirls to take care of.
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I've considered VM and or RMG, but both have fillers, correct?



Earlier I was sold on purchasing IP and FMJ to go with the FP II that I have not used yet, but then I researched more and have started leaning towards Poorboys again. Too many choices. :wall
 
TUD said:
I've considered VM and or RMG, but both have fillers, correct?
Click to expand...





Earlier I was sold on purchasing IP and FMJ to go with the FP II that I have not used yet, but then I researched more and have started leaning towards Poorboys again. Too many choices. :wall
 
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